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Just opposite of the piston ID looks like a cracked piston to me. and goes down into the cup/inverted dome. Just what my trained eye picked up. Use a pick or something see if it catches on it.
Something definitely doesn't look right. In the reflection off the cylinder wall, it looks like the upper ring land is dented/mangled like something was rattling around in the cylinder. Also, this may be an illusion, but it looks like maybe a crack in the block when I zoom in on the pic. I screen captured it and marked the photo on both sides of the spot I'm talking about.
Something definitely doesn't look right. In the reflection off the cylinder wall, it looks like the upper ring land is dented/mangled like something was rattling around in the cylinder. Also, this may be an illusion, but it looks like maybe a crack in the block when I zoom in on the pic. I screen captured it and marked the photo on both sides of the spot I'm talking about.
Good eye man! It definanntly doesn't look good. I'm outta town till Saturday or Sunday depending on work. I'm anxious/nervous to check it out
Budget about $2500 to rebuild yourself (figure $4k for someone else to build) or you can drop a used engine in for ~$1500.
I was prolly going to rebuild myself. I found a reman short block with forged for 3500 don't know what to do..
What would cause them to crack? And why does 7 look so burnt up?
I was prolly going to rebuild myself. I found a reman short block with forged for 3500 don't know what to do..
What would cause them to crack? And why does 7 look so burnt up?
Ford rebuild kit is about $1100, figure $500-800 at machine shop depending on what heads need, then the rest is new parts 'cause you're that far already'.
Lots of coking on #7. I'd say that cylinder wasn't firing very good for some reason.
The lip area around the piston bowls is a common failure point. There are a few theories about why - like hard use before engine is warmed up...
Extended idling can cause coking, but we generally see it across all 8 cylinders.
Ford rebuild kit is about $1100, figure $500-800 at machine shop depending on what heads need, then the rest is new parts 'cause you're that far already'.
Lots of coking on #7. I'd say that cylinder wasn't firing very good for some reason.
The lip area around the piston bowls is a common failure point. There are a few theories about why - like hard use before engine is warmed up...
Extended idling can cause coking, but we generally see it across all 8 cylinders.
I cant believe 3 out 4 are cracked. Definitely a relief though I was worried bout the block.
As for the heads and getting the block bored, will the machine shop know how much to take off?
Are there any special tools needed to rebuild? I hate getting into a project then stopping because I need a special tool.
I got a qoute from the machine shop down the road $500 to bore cylinders and cam bearings. Is that a reasonable price? Sorry for all the questions I've never done this
Never such thing as to many questions. The more the Q's the more we all know something new. Especially something this big of a scale, Sorry brotha.
I was quoted 1k for the machining and installing pistons etc. I supplied all the parts. I went to the best place in town and they were about a month out and with winter coming I decided not go with for it, also I was running out of the green stuff that someone once said grows on trees. Although there was nothing wrong deep down in the bowels of my 7.3. I think thats is reasonable but not 100% sure.
If you do most of the build please do keep us in mind and take a bunch of pics!!!
Never such thing as to many questions. The more the Q's the more we all know something new. Especially something this big of a scale, Sorry brotha.
I was quoted 1k for the machining and installing pistons etc. I supplied all the parts. I went to the best place in town and they were about a month out and with winter coming I decided not go with for it, also I was running out of the green stuff that someone once said grows on trees. Although there was nothing wrong deep down in the bowels of my 7.3. I think thats is reasonable but not 100% sure.
If you do most of the build please do keep us in mind and take a bunch of pics!!!
I might check out the price for install. My truck picked the wrong time to crap out. I just bought my first house and completely gutted it and rehabbing it.
I would definitely like to learn and do it myself. I just have to find some time. I gotta get it done before the snow starts to fall
I appreciate all of your guys help! I'll be pulling it this weekend. I know I'll be back with more questions. I'll be sure to post some pics of the build.
So my trained machinist eye did catch that piston crack Yes a shop will know, but 99% of the time 7.3's are good to go on STD bore. Unless you have 300k or better. The block shoots oil on the bore/piston not to mention your injecting oil on the topside. The heat generated on the crown is the real killer. That is why pyro gauges are THE real thing to have. And the other reason I have not went after more power.
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