I agree that in your particular situation we need to revisit the formula. I spent a lot of time comparing readings with AE, FORScan, laser thermometer, and Torque - but I never got that hot to see how the formula extends out.

 

First: Thanks coax for taking the time to educate my old brain.
I pull about 25,000 CGVW about 12,000 miles a year all over the country and am learning diesel speak and especially 7.3 and Auto Trans speak. I do have performance gas engine racing under my belt but that was many years ago.
I will install an EGT Gauge next. I do use my head and keep my foot out of it as much as reasonably possible. I have a Superchips tuner that is set to Heavy Tow only. (Lowest Setting).
I also have a Tru-Cool 4739-1 40K Trans Cooler installed and have changed my Engine Fan and Clutch recently since last year's high temps where my shift blinker came on pulling the 18 mile, 8% grade on the Big Horn Mtns in WY.

You mention keeping the intake all sealed up. Do you have details on that or info on where I can find them?

Thanks again.
Fox
Foxes Travel - Our Travel Photo Diaries, Road Grades, Clearances and information as we travel - US, Canada and Mexico

 

Good point. Most people haven't ran their temps up that high. As with all curve fits the further you get from the known data point the more likely the error will increase.

I also agree that surface temperatures could easily be 20-30° cooler that the core temperature.

 

I too agree and understand that, however the differences should be consistent over the full range of temperatures. Mine is about 10 degrees at normal highway temps of about 180 on the Torque to over 40 degrees on a hard climb.

One of the problems on a hard climb is that I am down to 30 mph or less, sometimes due to tight curves, therefore there is a lot less ram air and I am depending on the engine fan to cool the drive train.

 

If you want to do some experimenting, I am in Wyoming mountains right now headed for BC, Canada then back to Tucson by the middle of September. Lots of mountain pulls in our path. I would be more than willing to be your "test pilot" for any new info you have.
It would fit right in with my past as a test pilot but on the real thing... aircraft.

I am guessing I will owe some one a lot of after we get this licked.

 

I had a chance to compare my set up this last summer, I got a set of gauges (EGT, Trans temp, boost) right off the Bat, when I started Pulling my fiver on vaca. Didn't know much about TP. So I had both systems set up when we left. I had 5 * difference when cold, 2* when up to temp (180*), and around 7-8* dif when I started pulling Grades (Grapevine.....((shudder)). I started tapping 225*about halfway up, dropped to 3rd and around 2000rpm. She didn't like it very much, but she made it over. But TP stayed pretty accurate. I use the gauges now mostly for EGT/ fuel pressure.

 

Pull the long hard grades @ 2100 to 2500 and there should be no excess EGT or lack of power with a stock tune.

NEVER EVER LUG a diesel under a heavy load! Downshift and save the hardware, but be careful not to over rev!

BTW - This is why I prefer the ZF6 manual... easier to control RPM in various situations, though I have found in the heavier duty (tandem plow trucks and 18 wheelers) the Allison auto with transmission retarder more effective than the Jake Brake with very effective and responsive shifting both up and down.

 

Ok guys, I'm new here and have both general automotive questions, and ford related ones, dealing with gauges in Torque Pro...

First of all, I have a Konnwei kw903 model Bluetooth adapter, and have used it on a few different vehicles from a few manufacturers, for looking up codes, and I do also have track recorder and a few other plugins for it, but, however, I literally have no automotive knowledge of gauges, or plugins, aside from the fact that they work in Torque Pro, and haven't done any serious looking at using the guages, and wanted to know if there is any specific Gauge setup that is a must in most every vehicle??? Also, considering this is a Ford forum, I'm looking for a vehicle, probably between a 2009 and 2011, that is a car, like say a Ford focus, or a Ford Taurus, and wondered if any of you have any idea what the best model year to get would be, and how likely they would work well with Torque??? I know this is mainly a truck forum, but I get information from many sources, and sometimes the same source giving 2 different opinions on the quality of a certain model, and wondered if anyone can point me in the right direction, to find practical information on what ford car to buy, without having to read all kinds of bad reviews (and good) on thousands of car sites... Just owners getting together, perhaps to educate other likely car buyers, like you guys do here???

 

In this particular instance, you're asking on a forum where we don't talk about trucks in general, about all Ford trucks, or not even the Superduty - we focus on the 7.3L Powerstroke engine sold in the U.S. from 1999 to 2003, and in Australia until about 2006. Hows that for an esoteric thread?

Saying that, there is a lot of knowledge here about all things - but I can't help you with this one. Maybe somebody else.

 

I’m a new Excursion owner. It’s a 2002 6.8. I’ve been using Torque on my cars for years to log most of my driving.

On this truck, I’m finding it’s only partially OBD2 compliant. Almost everything works in Torque for monitoring with the exception of Long term fuel trims, which are fairly important to me. They read 99.2.

With Forscan, I have an option for LTFT OBD, and Ford LTFT. The OBD version in Forscan also reads 99.2, but the Ford specific LTFT works for both banks.

I’m looking to get the LTFT working in Torque as it has much better/faster gauge read outs. Is there anyone able to help me figure out the Ford LTFT PIDs? I don’t seem to be able to get that data out of Forscan.

thanks!

 

As a 7.3 owner, I was hoping maybe somebody else had some input.