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I arrived at the formulas by comparing with AE, FORScan, and my laser thermometer. I don't remember if anything changed here between the 2015.5 thread and the 2016 thread.
I arrived at the formulas by comparing with AE, FORScan, and my laser thermometer. I don't remember if anything changed here between the 2015.5 thread and the 2016 thread.
Nothing has changed on the threads.
Do you remember where you pointed the laser for the reference.
I arrived at the formulas by comparing with AE, FORScan, and my laser thermometer. I don't remember if anything changed here between the 2015.5 thread and the 2016 thread.
The values that I posted (above post) are from the 2016 values you have Tugly, hope that helps, one is e99 and OBS where the other is 99.5 and later
EDIT: Looks like SrFox beat me to the change info...
....Do you remember where you pointed the laser for the reference.
Every square inch of anything that moves or contains a moving part. I was on a lot of snipe hunts with "Stinky", and there is very little I haven't aimed that laser at. I've even gone so far as to take thermal pictures - like this one of an injector and the valves.
20-30° difference is certainly possible depending on where the trucks TFT sensor is located. Take your temperature on the back of your hand and then compare that with you temperature under your tongue.
I checked that for a while, then unchecked it. The only difference I saw was a box with a check in it - or not. I do have a 2000 F250. It might be particular to specific PCMs - there are a lot of them.
But 20-30 degrees? The top of the oil pan is the hottest thing I can find on my transmission. I hit the Ford Idiot light temp last year on an 18 mile 7% climb pulling our heavy 5th wheel. They say the light comes on at 230, my guage showed 250 when the light came on. This is about consistent with the differences I am seeing from gauge to oil pan.
I don't understand the formula in the PID but I may try messing with it anyway.
Okay, I have done some extensive testing recently. I climbed a surprise hill near Helen, GA on Hwy 378 which I calculated at 10% and about 10 miles. Crazy curves so kept my air intake speed to about 20-25 mph. My engine fan (new recently) was working fine and running flat out. I saw 260 degrees on Torque but the hottest temp I could find anywhere on the tranny, oil lines or oil pan was 221. The trany was working fine as to shifting and all other temps, water and engine were all good. In my opinion there is a serious flaw in the PID. It seems the higher the temps the bigger the difference in what Torque is showing and what the laser thermometer is showing.
Anybody have ideas on how to calibrate this any better?
I sure would like to keep using the Torque instead of installing manual gauges. I am a techie from way back and and think this can be done. It is just a matter of doing it right.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
The difference between Reading Surface Temp and internal temp???? I'll believe Torque pro and the PCM every time. A laser thermometer still only reads surface Temps....Exposed to Air flow, you can easily have 20 to 30 * difference. Don't forget that the Trans body is one big heat Sink.....
I checked that for a while, then unchecked it. The only difference I saw was a box with a check in it - or not. I do have a 2000 F250. It might be particular to specific PCMs - there are a lot of them.
next time I take Enigma out and use torqe pro ill tick that box and test it ot if you guys want...
The difference between Reading Surface Temp and internal temp???? I'll believe Torque pro and the PCM every time. A laser thermometer still only reads surface Temps....Exposed to Air flow, you can easily have 20 to 30 * difference. Don't forget that the Trans body is one big heat Sink.....
1. Okay but if that is true, why did I not melt down or at least get a Ford tranny heat warning?
Ford claims that the tranny warning (OD light Flashing) comes on at 230.
250* is considered the start to get worried Zone, and even then it's got to be sustained for a bit. and on a 10% grade, your gonna tickle that a lot. That's why group thinking suggests an extra cooler for the trans to cover that eventuality. Keep your RPM's up, don't lug your engine, etc. Making sure your intake is all sealed up, Keep your EGT's under control. Not to mention your temp gauge is not a gauge at all......It's Go or No go. by the time it flips over, it's too late. That's why everyone gets either standalone gauges or Torque Pro/Forscan, to watch their engines health......
And Mark K will know for sure,( being a Big Brain and all ) , but the Blinking OD signals many things going on with the trans, It also means it's throwing a code involving it of some sort. I don't know about the temps
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