My new scantool adapter arrived today woohoo! Now have oil temp, HPOP, EBP & more, time to play!

 

OK...I bought in on this Torque Pro app and bought an android tablet to try it out. My tablet (too small in IMO) Galaxy Tab 4, 7" screen, my bad but it is what I have for now. I bought the seat bolt mount from Akron (20") as well, the mount works well after having to enlarge the mounting hole just a bit to get it to fit. I also bought the BAFX OBDII Diagnostic Interface ($23.99 on Amazon) to pair with my tablet. Everything arrived in one box from Amazon in a few days as usual. Hooked everything up no problems, got the Ford Enhanced PID's from the app and went out for a test drive, everything went well and I got some readings from the truck. The boost gauge was reading -2.8 at idle and I knew that was not right but at least I was getting feedback. I read alot on this site and wanted to get Tugly's custom PID's installed hoping to get some real feedback from my truck (late 99 just to be clear here) mostly boost reading to see if I was de-fueling from an over-boost situation, and torque converter slip. I entered all the custom PID's from this thread, set up some gauge screens and went out to marvel at my accomplishments. I start the truck, everything is good, open the app, all is well, tablet connects, still good, mount the tablet in the sweet new tablet mount in my truck, I'm ready to see some data, tap the real time gauges and the truck dies..... ...Turn off the app and the truck fires right up. WOW I feel dumb, frustrated, and kinda PO all at the same time. I checked all my custom PID's and they are all correct, no numbers "afoul". All I can think is to delete the custom PID's one by one until it keeps running with the real-time gauges running? I did go into the settings menu (after I quit the app and restarted the truck) and looked at the adapter settings app on without going to the real-time information and the readings were not great, it was reporting numerous errors with the OBDII adapter. I decided to just let it go for 2 days so I could do more research and calm down. Tonight I decided to clear my list of custom PID's, reload the Ford(Powerstroke) PID's and see if real-time would work. The truck kept running when I launched real-time, but on the bottom of the app (gauge screen) it read "BAD OBDII ADAPTER". What is wrong here? OBDII is bad right, but why does it read without the custom PID's? I'm totally confused. I think I need another OBDII adapter like:

http://http://www.amazon.com/ScanToo...ds=obd+linl+mx

Sorry I cant figure out how to post a link with one word as the link on here. Anybody with a late 99 have any advise? ANY advise would be much appreciated. ANY, ANY advise.. Maybe this is just one of those bad OBDII adapters?? Thanks for reading my long winded RANT!!. Whats another $100 on a good adapter to eliminate the issue, in the grand scheem of the powerstroke saga

 

Sorry you're going through the hard part... I do what I can to prevent others from re-living my nightmares. I noticed I omitted a very important instruction, and I can't go back to edit it. Apologies to all.

At the bottom of every custom PID, there is a "Test" button. Click that before saving each PID.

Other than that omission, I did post this on the header:

Critical Note:

Never ever add a gauge while connected with the engine running... no matter who sent the configuration. The data can have an error or a typo in it, so it's best to set up your gauge off-line, then connect to the truck KOEO after everything is set correctly (to the best of your knowledge).

As for the OBDII adapter, you can go through the protocol settings to make sure it has the best chance to connect smoothly. J1850 PWM Non-OBDII.

I also set up Torque to shut off the WiFi (when you have a BT adapter), because I want the tablet to focus on one job - monitoring/logging my sensors. Another reason to have Torque shut off the WiFi while it's active - driving the truck does not lend itself to getting a reliable WiFi signal to surf the web. The WiFi would just be "noise" and more workload for the tablet.

I have found 7" is actually a perfect size. I limit myself to 6 large gauges per screen, with more than one screen. I set alarms on the important gauges, so I don't have to watch all of them. In all honesty - too many gauges on the screen at a time makes it hard to keep an eye on anything while scanning for the one item in question. It's information overload.

I have one screen just for fueling, air in/out, and the Engine Oil Temperature. The other screen is for all things transmission - including the RPMs. I say RPMs there because it can log the values, and it is used with the Torque Converter Slip. I went through many iterations before I settled on the locations of each gauge, and my eyes know where to go without hunting now. You might want a different strategy than the one I chose.

 

Rich posted some wise and well-earned advice about testing the PIDs and never while running

I'd mention another screen that I've also found helpful.

If you long press the dashboard and choose to add a gauge, you come to a screen with all the PIDs listed.

If your key is on, the ones getting data are GREEN and will show data. Same as the Test Rich mentions, but all the PIDs at once.

It's a good idea before turning on a gauge to make sure its PID is getting data.

Oh- and my truck stalls EVERY TIME I try to get or clear DTCs. Make sure the key is on, but your truck is NOT RUNNING when reading or clearing DTCs.

It's a Torque Pro thing, I don't have this problem with AE.

 

Welllll, Technically, I think you're supposed to work with DTC's KOEO, and not running. AE will puke out on you too. But In My experience, Camper is right on TP. When you pull up the legacy PIDS while the key is on, but engine off. Scroll thru the List and activate the ones that are Bright Green(or Lime, if you prefer) the dark green ones are not active. Then lock them into your display screen. They'll then function. If you attempt ANY changes while the engine is running, the engine will shut down. Also check to make sure Your adaptor is talking to TP BEFORE you start the motor. It'll tell you if it's not talking. It's probably a setting u missed....

 

[QUOTE]Thank you for the response Tugly I was hoping you would respond. I did run it today with the pre-loaded list of PID's and had fairly good success. I will add the PID's back in that you have posted and go to the truck and "TEST" them KOEO and see what it doesn't like.

I still think I will purchase another Bluetooth adapter because I just don't trust the BAFX one now. I am still getting the faulty OBDII reading across the bottom of the screen while running TP? I am on board with wanting the best update speed coming to my tablet for the most accurate readings, that is the point of all this right? I am still having trouble with my boost gauge reading -5 at idle? Also I had two separate MAP gauges going today (whats the difference?) both reading different values....I have a lot to learn still Thanks for all the information you have posted I appreciate it ALL very much.

 

[QUOTE]Thank you, lesson learned!

Good information, I did notice this today when I was adding a gauge.

 

For the first time in a while, I brought the tablet (2013 Nexus 7) into the house and tinkered with the settings. I now have Marshmallow - Lollipop was a short-lived OS.

I noticed Torque Pro has a special power setting just for the OBDLink adapters. It's interesting that Ian wrote some code in there specifically for the one adapter. It's fair to mention that only the OBDLink can be put into "sleep" mode, not draining the batteries - so it's the only adapter Ian could write code for. I moved my OBDII port behind the knee plate, and I leave the adapter plugged in at all times. I've had the truck parked for as long as three months with the OBDLink MX Bluetooth plugged in, and Stinky fired right up without a jump.

ARP2 - Was that MAP reading -5.0 or -0.5 at idle? What was the reading at KOEO?

You only need one MAP or one Boost (Manifold Gauge Pressure). Two, three, or four gauges using the same sensor is a total waste of real estate on your portable device - something that is short supply.

I use the Manifold Gauge Pressure and the Exhaust Gauge Pressure - something like a clean boost and a dirty boost. The clean obviously gets the boost from the turbo, the dirty gets the "boost" from the 7.3L air compressor.

 

[QUOTE=ARP2;15786851]The Boost gauge also shows Vacuum. So at idle or coasting and so on, it will normally show a negative number.

 

Did you maybe mean -0.5 rather than -5?

 

I double checked today and it was -5.0, the same running as KOEO, seems like that's wrong. I do live in Colorado, 5,280' above sea level, do I need to adjust for this or is this adjusted for automatically. BARO ??



Yes I would agree but I was trying to see if I could find one that was accurately reflecting boost. None of these seem right currently, what should I be looking for as far as boost? I have adjusted my waste-gate rod (I wonder if it even opens anymore?) so it only opens about .25" max. With my billowed up pipes (newly installed) and majority of the work in my signature being done about 6 weeks ago I think I would be seeing pretty good numbers (low 20's?? maybe...I hope) but cant be sure. I know I need an analog boost gauge soon but I need to stop the "Buckzooka" for just a bit..

Should have some time this weekend to get my TP dialed in...I hope. On a side note it is reading good enough to see that I believe I'm getting significant TC Slip in 3rd gear above 40 MPG. When I let off and get back into it I was seeing consistent 4 digit #'s. In 4th gear it seems to lock up, no slip. Wouldn't it slip all the time if it was slipping? If I am getting slip can I just get a TC and valve body installed in my OE tranny or is the best move to go all BTS/John Woods with my trans?

 

Here is the shift pattern when accelerating:
1, 2, 3, TCLU, 4. It will slip for part of third gear, but at about 35 MPH the TC locks up.

If you plan on keeping TP up when you drive at highway speeds, there would be no need for a boost gauge. It sounds like you have "-(BARO)" in the boost formula. This would subtract the sea level reading from your MAP - no good anywhere except at sea level. This is what I use:

Long name:Barometer
Short name: BARO
PID: 221442
Max/Min: 15.0/10.0
Unit: PSI
Equation: ((A*256)+B)*0.03625
Header: C410F1

Manifold Gauge Pressure
Short Name: Boost
PID: 221440
Units: PSI
Max/Min: 30.0/0.0 (stock) 40.0/0.0 (performance)
Equation: (((A*256)+B)*0.03625)-[221442]

Exhaust Gauge Pressure
Short Name: EGP
PID: 221445
Units: PSI
Max/Min: 30.0/0.0 (stock) 40.0/0.0 (performance and/or engine braking)
Equation: (((A*256)+B)*0.03625)-[221442]

 

So I have two BARO gauges set up on my tablet niether one works but I don't know what the PIDs are. I think I entered them as custom PIDS but they do not show up in my list of custom PIDS. On my phone I have BARO also, using the PID in this thread and it works fine. Where do the PIDS go after you add them, don't they go to the list with all the others?. Did mine disappear on the tablet and that is why they don't work?
Also my boost shows same as MAP when I am at idle. I am using 221440 (((A*256)+B)*0.03625-BARO(). Maybe my boost is reading same as MAP because there is no working BARO?

 

The "BARO()" in your equation is trying to subtract the BARO value of your tablet from MAP. I have learned the BARO function in most tablets are either a fixed value for sea level, or a zero - since most tablets have no barometer. The formula needs to be changed to utilize the BARO and Boost PIDs provided in the very first post in this thread, repeated in my last post just before yours.

 

Just in hopes of helping someone else out with the same issue. I just loaded a new 7.3 truck in Torque pro. IE new name. Started from scratch, did just as ricj said to find the culprit the ECM did not like.

Question for anyone: What is the idle PSI for our HPOP supposed to be? I am just trying to double and triple check to make sure I have ALL leaks and issues covered for my injector seals now.

Secondly is there a way of hooking up a electronic sensor for the ECM/TQ PRO to read the fuel pressure? Rather than have a manual line/gauge hooked up. I think Rich made me into a electronic junkie now LOL