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Well thanks for resurrecting this thread, added about $500 of add-ons to the Amazon wish list after reading through all the great ideas this morning.
Finally got the toy hauler back on Friday from the dealer after keeping it all winter to rebuild the ramp since I discovered they sold it to us with water damage.
Well thanks for resurrecting this thread, added about $500 of add-ons to the Amazon wish list after reading through all the great ideas this morning.
Finally got the toy hauler back on Friday from the dealer after keeping it all winter to rebuild the ramp since I discovered they sold it to us with water damage.
I had some things apart on the underside of my trailer, so as long as I was already there, I removed the shackles on the suspension. I had been planning to do this eventually. This is going to be a project that takes a couple weekends, due to some complications.
The shackles I removed are likely what the trailer came with. I have dual Dexter 5200 lb axles. The bushings are plastic. As you can see in the photo below, the bushing on the far right was wearing through. The bushing on the top was completely gone on one side.
The rear bolt on the back axle wouldn't come out today. In the photo below, you can see that the gas tank (for the generator) is in the way. I'm going to have to drop the gas tank to provide enough clearance for the bolt to come out. When I put in the Dexter E-Z Flex upgrade (Dexter K71-652-00 Complete Suspension Kit) I'll put the nuts on the inside and the bolts on the outside. The more I work on this trailer, I get an understanding of the order in which things were installed on this trailer at the factory. Ease of maintenance certainly didn't come into consideration.
I thought about cutting off the bolt. I did have my Sawzall with me. But the bolts may be hard enough that I would be there a long time trying to cut through it.
I think I can drop just the one side of the fuel tank, without dropping the other side. I would have done it today but I didn't have a deep well socket with me. Dropping the tank to clear the bolt is a practice run for when I have to completely drop the tank to replace the sending unit which is not reporting the correct level.
I thought about cutting off the bolt. I did have my Sawzall with me. But the bolts may be hard enough that I would be there a long time trying to cut through it.
I think I can drop just the one side of the fuel tank, without dropping the other side. I would have done it today but I didn't have a deep well socket with me. Dropping the tank to clear the bolt is a practice run for when I have to completely drop the tank to replace the sending unit which is not reporting the correct level.
I like the Milwaukee "Torch" blades. Should make quicker work of it.
Jim, you sure do have a project on your hands....... Reminds me of spring of 2018..... the more I got into the underside and suspension..... The more I said naughty words........
You won't regret it, torch blades are amazing! Good luck on the project.
LOL! Those bolts were much softer than I expected. I bought new blades but already had a gently used blade in the saw, so I used that. I had to cut the bolt twice to get it all out but it cut rather easily.
Lesson learned. Consult the experts first and save a buttload of time.
The other side should have plenty of clearance to get the bolts out without cutting them. I sprayed them with PB B'laster today in preparation for doing that side tomorrow.
LOL! Those bolts were much softer than I expected. I bought new blades but already had a gently used blade in the saw, so I used that. I had to cut the bolt twice to get it all out but it cut rather easily.
Lesson learned. Consult the experts first and save a buttload of time.
The other side should have plenty of clearance to get the bolts out without cutting them. I sprayed them with PB B'laster today in preparation for doing that side tomorrow.
Good to hear the progress is coming along without too much difficulty....
We have been wanting to boondock in Colorado but haven't had the setup to pull it off so some 12v system fortification was in order.
4x 100w of HQST solar panels Victron Smart Solar 100/30 MPPT solar charge controller 1500w GO WISE pure sine wave inverter connected to shore power 30 amp inlet on a 15 amp outlet of the inverter. This allows the ATS to continue to source power from generator to inverter. (no cables for the wife/kids to connect/disconnect) 2x GC2 6V Duracell batteries 8 ga cable from charge controller to roof 10 ga cables from panel MC4 to MC4 branch connectors 6 ga cable from charge controller to buss bar 2/0 cables from battery to buss bar fused with a 300amp Blue Sea/Eaton CBBF terminal fuse Bayite 100A battery monitor (to be replaced with 300+ amp monitor yet to be named)
Solar performance was outstanding in Silverton Colorado last week. We had not a care in the world in regards to power. Used the generator for coffee a couple mornings and vacuum cleaner as needed with all other AC loads on the inverter. This will allow allot of camping spot options were scared to use before.
Solar panels installed to allow up to 90 tilt to either side of the trailer but not front to rear. GC2 batteries installed on the tongue. I hope to build a lithium pack in the next couple of years of either prismatic format (aka CALB, Winston etc.) or 18650 style. Lithium is cost prohibitive at the moment.
Victron Smart Solar MPPT 100/30 with Smart Battery Sense, GoPower 1500w puree sine inverter. 4 100w HQST Compact Mono Solar panels bolted two to a rack to allow for double tilting. Angle brackets bolted with 3 -5/16" lag bolts per bracket. Average daily production for that trip. The orange cord is a extension cord with a 30 amp twist lock installed to power the entire rv from the inverter. Solar usage/output for the trip.
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You talked me into trying to cut the bolt off. I ordered a set of those torch blades too, 24 TPI, 6".
