Does the fuel level sender work? Can you tell if fuel pump is working? Might be work replacing those if you haven't already.

 

Fuel level is reading correctly. I'm just having issues getting my key and PATS to play nice together now.

 

you are so close! Keep it up!

 

Got the speaker issue figured out. I popped the cupholder off of the rear of the center console and seen that the rear audio control panel was unplugged. Plugged it back in, and all the speakers work correctly now.

Also finished buttoning up the rest of the engine compartment. All I need to do up there is hook up the wiper motor. I'm waiting to do that until I can get new cowl panels- mine are melted at the edges, and I'll have to break them to get into the cowl area.

Also swapped the shifter handle with the one from the truck, as the Ex had a busted overdrive switch and the piece was missing. Noticed that I'm going to have to do the shift tube bushings very soon.

Small parts still needed- hood latch cable, driver door master switch panel, cruise recall kit

It's about time to clean the interior! haha

 

Nice man! Hopefully you figure out that PATS programming stuff from your other thread soon and have the truck ready to go for the summer. Pretty exciting!

 

You're doing a great job! It won't be long now...

Good Luck!

 

Found an issue that I had forgotten about...

While doing the final tidying up on the wiring, I noticed a plug hanging down on the driver side that wasn't plugged into anything. After about 15 minutes of looking and head-scratching, the light bulb came on...

The wire that is part of the driver side ABS sensor was burned in the middle. The wire is good from the sensor on up about a foot past it. It is also good from the plug on back 8 inches or so. Just the middle section is burned. I had forgotten about it because when I removed the burned up harness, I wrapped that ABS lead around the shock tower so it wouldn't get caught on anything- and so I would have a visual reference on what the plug on the new harness went to.

Since I'm running extremely low on funds, I asked my instructor at school about the sensor itself- if it is sensitive enough to have been shorted out, or if it is durable enough to have survived. I'm thinking since I have tons of extra wiring lying around, maybe I could cut out the burned part, solder in a section of good wire, then plug it in and run with it until I can afford to replace it.

In typical Automotive Electrical instructor fashion, his response: "I don't know if it would have damaged the actual sensor or not, BUT look at it this way: If you do it and it works, you've gotten yourself by. If you do it and it doesn't work, you have that much more soldering experience and didn't lose anything but 15 or 20 minutes of your time."

I do believe the man has a valid point...

 

I figured I'd add an update- most of this info was in my PATS thread, but I figured I'd include it here since it is actually build related (and maybe there are people following this thread that haven't read the PATS thread...

Just to refresh, I got it to the point where it would crank, but the PATS system has me locked out. Somewhere between when the fire happened and now, the system "forgot" the one and only unique (chipped) key that I got with the vehicle. Not knowing if the fire damaged anything, I ended up buying a second matching PCM and PATS module.

As per the suggestions made to me in my PATS thread, I downloaded the free FORScan software onto my laptop, as well as the temporary extended license key (you need the extended license to do much of anything with the PATS system). I also purchased the OBDLink SX cable (usb) from ScanTools.net to make the connection between my laptop and the Excursion's data link connector.

NOTE: I found that when the OBDLink SX is plugged into the DLC, the lights on the SX are pointed at the floor. I remedied this by unscrewing the two screws that hold the DLC in place and reinstalling the DLC upside down from factory. Now the light on the SX faces up.

THE GOOD NEWS: If you only have one unique key, you DO NOT have to spend close to $150 at the dealership to program in a second (or more) unique key. I have less than $35 in the OBDLink SX (and that includes shipping). FORScan and the extended license is FREE.

What I had before I began- the one original key that the system "forgot" and two brand new non-clone keys, provided by an awesome individual that has given me a lot of advice and help from the beginning of this project. As a side note- I haven't gotten around to having the two new keys cut yet, but I was still able to program them (more on this in a minute).

So I fire up FORScan (having already applied the extended license key) and hook up the SX cable between the Excursion and the laptop. I then go into the PATS programing area and select something like "erase all keys and program new keys." It then made me wait 12 minutes, so if I were a car thief, I'd be just sitting there for a bit. It instructs me to insert the first key and switch to run. Then it instructs me to insert at least one more key and switch to run. Since I didn't have the two new keys cut yet, I used one of the non-PATS standard keys that I got with the truck- I put that one in the ignition and just held the new key backwards up against it so that the transceiver would read it. I did the same with the second new key. Operation was successful and it shows three unique keys stored to memory.

To verify the success, I put the first key in the ignition and switched to run. After the gauge test, the theft light now switches off. To test the second and third key, I did the same thing I did to program them- used the cut non-PATS key to cycle the ignition while holding the uncut PATS keys against it backwards. For both keys, the theft light goes away after the gauge test.

HERE'S THE KICKER- I figured that since I own the tools, I have all the time in the world to play around. So, I did all of this with the ORIGINAL PCM and PATS module- the parts that went through the fire! So far, they are working just fine!

On to the DTC's... When I pulled the codes, I was pretty impressed with the PCM. It was busy doing it's job logging codes while the fire was in progress! It only quit when the previous owner finally cut the battery cable to kill the power. There was a pretty big list of codes stored- and they were all related to items that were damaged in the fire. When I cleared the DTC's, only three came back. One was for the PATS- because I was actually playing with the codes before I programmed the keys. Once I did the keys and cleared the codes, the PATS code DID NOT come back. The other two codes were 1) P1000- which if I remember correctly, I'll have to complete a drive cycle to get rid of, and (2 ABS- Left Front wheel sensor. That is the sensor which had it's leads up by the inner fender liner burned. I soldered in some new wire, and when I have my multimeter leads reading the sensor plug, rotating the wheel causes the reading to move around. So it's possible that this code will be happy once it gets driven.

THE BAD NEWS- Everyone is waiting for me to be able to start it. Getting past the PATS was the major hurdle. But I've been slacking... Okay, I really haven't been slacking- I had finals to prepare for. At any rate, all I have to do is button up the power steering and figure out why I have one huge leftover vacuum port open with no matching hose in sight, and then I'll be ready.

In case anyone is wondering- I just completed my second semester in Automotive Technology. I just received my grades, and I'm STILL a straight-A student. There is really no better feeling than to be getting these kinds of grades at 45 years old- showing up all the 18-25 year-olds who think they know it all...

 

Congrats to you on your academic success.

 

Nice updates. Glad you are getting the Excursion sorted out too.

 

ANOTHER UPDATE-

I still have a few kinks to work out of the PS system, but...

SHE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I hit the key the first time and is stumbled a little and quit. I hit the key the second time and it roared to life- the idle was a little rough for about 10 seconds and then settled into a nice smooth idle. I shut it off and restarted a couple times and she started right up and idled smoothly. No check engine light and no new codes thrown.

If it is nice tomorrow, I'll wrap up the PS stuff and bleed the brakes, then hopefully take her on her maiden voyage. Oh, and how do people post up video? You Tube?

One thing has made itself very clear the past couple days- I desperately need to get the master switch panel for the driver door. Sitting out there with the doors closed and the laptop scanner running with the sun turning it into a sauna because I can't roll down the windows... SUCKS!

Thanks to everyone here that has given me help, gave/sold me parts and generally just cheered me on. You all ROCK.

 

That is awesome news on the truck and even better on the schooling! Way to go man!

 

Awesome man. Get some vids up asap!

 

I would be a little sluggish if I'd been asleep for more than a year.

Great job.

 

Today's update...

Double checked everything for leaks. Put the driveshaft in.

Took it for a low-speed cruise around the neighborhood, everything seemed fine, except for the ABS light is on. I'm sure the brakes need bled better and there might be a problem with the LF wheel sensor.

After a few low speed cruises, I finally got brave enough to take it out and stretch her legs a little. Tires were a little low, so I decided to take it down to the gas station about 3 miles down the highway. I kept it at about 50 with my flashers on for the trip there, due to the low tires.

After the tires were aired up, I headed for home at 65 mph. There is a little bit of a vibration under load, and it seems to be worst right before shifting. I'm suspecting the driveshaft- it is a bit scaley with rust. There is no vibration when I ease the throttle up in neutral.

Tested all the bells and whistles, and I only found a couple things. First, the blower resistor must be shot- I only have front heat on high. I'll rob the good one from the truck. Second, the overhead computer is dead. I half expected that, based on the threads I've seen. It's not high up on my priority list right now though.

Final impression- What idiot at Ford thought it would be a good idea to put paddle mirrors on an Excursion??? They weren't too bad on my truck, but they're next to useless on this thing!