Yeah no kidding, that would be awful if it got ruined, sounds like you got it in time.

Just ordered parts should be coming pretty soon. Crossing my fingers that area will clean up and get a good seal.

 

I got my return line kit right from Ford Thomas. Came with all I need. You'll like working on this. It's just so easy. And when something goes wrong it can only be a couple of things.

 

Yeah it's a nice change of pace, I always wanted a IDI, this came along and the kid that had it had no clue what he had. All he knew was he didn't like it because it didn't have a turbo, so there for he couldn't beat the snot out of it like he wanted to.

Thankfully in the time he had it, he didn't drive it much. So this was more about rescuing the truck. And glad I did, if this happened to him, he would have drove it till it drove no more.

 

Double post

 

Quick question: Anyone know off the top of their head what the total cooling system capacity is? I got about 4 gallons out of the rad when I drained it, I'm going to be doing the Water Pump before it goes back on the road so I will pry loose some more. Just curious.

 

Sounds about right, 16qt sticks in my head.

 

Total capacity - block, radiator, heater core, hoses, oil cooler, etc - is EIGHT gallons. Are you looking to completely replace the coolant?

 

Yes, as much as I can.

 

In that case, you'll want to remove the block drains as well. This would also be an opportune time to replace the thermostat.

This - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...formation.html - is about the most comprehensive procedure for a coolant flush you could find. 'Course the layout is a little different on an IDI vs a PSD, but the basics are the same.

Finally, if you opt to remove the thermostat for the flush as recommended, before starting, TEST the thermal switch that's right behind the thermostat gooseneck. Two-wire switch/sensor, closed when cold, open when hot (I forget what temperature), controls the cold idle / cold advance on the IP. If it's not working, this would be the time to replace it. The shape of the gooseneck makes it a serious PITA to remove that switch while the gooseneck is installed.

 

Well I was excited yesterday when a big box arrived with some parts in it. However when I opened the box the intake gasket they sent me was damaged. I got on the computer to Rock Auto right away and sent pictures of the damage. They refunded me about an hour later for the gasket and the shipping, cant argue with that kind of service!

I'm going to try and find one local. Should have done that in the first place, but you know what they say. Hindsight is 20/20. Hoping the other parts arrive soon, they were coming fedex from New York, which was hit with snow so not sure when that will arrive. I'll keep you all posted!

Thank you all again for all the help and information. Breaking me in easy!

 

How did I not know you picked up an IDI? Looks like you're already hip deep in rehabbing it. Good for you, Thomas. I'm looking forward to watching the progress.

 

Thanks Nate! Yeah I had a 97 Ranger I traded even up for it, haven't been talking it up too much, its just an old truck, lol. I've always wanted one though, the opportunity came and I pounced on it!

 

probably because you spend too much time in the newbie truck forum, and not enough time here in the old timers forum.

 

Guilty as charged.

There is a nice looking '87 F250 with a 6.9 in it that is for sale locally that has me tempted though. 86,000 original miles. 2 owner truck. Only downfall is that it is a 2WD. If it were a 4x4, I'd be on the phone right now...

I like the old IDIs a lot, I just don't know if I can justify buying one as a DD, especially if it's a 2WD.

 

Well, went to a local parts store today, and got an intake gasket.

I figured while I had it at this stage I would do return lines, o rings and washers.

This was pretty much the norm, had a couple return lines break, they were so brittle, I'm guessing original.




7 injectors had a date code stamped in them of 12-84 and one had a 3-88 stamped in it, must have needed a new one at some point. They all said B on them, I'm assuming that means they are B Code injectors.

7 injectors went off with out a hitch, then I got to the last one (cylinder 1)

The day I got the truck that one was leaking and I just tweaked it with a wrench, when I took out the injector I was suprised with this:

I used a magnet and got some more pieces out, then I came to the last part. I think it came apart when I unscrewed it out of the head.
The chamber was so full of carbon, I used a pick to try and get some out. Then I used some brake clean to try and loosen it up. I vaccumed it out every so often so it wouldn't go down into the cylinder. It would wiggle side to side but it didn't want to move. I then sprayed some Kroil on it and let it set for a couple hours. I came back and tried again and still nothing.


Came back and hooked the battery up to it, and bumped the starter a couple of times, and it pushed it right out. It appears there was no washer on the bottom of that, I'm guessing that was allowing combustion to go by and coked it all up.

I plan on replacing that injector. The rest of them looked ok (it actually ran ok before this) Is there a brand to go with, or one that is prefered over another?

Thanks!