My first Ford pickup....
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
You got the same welcome to owning a Holley that I did. And, you probably know this stuff, but check that the bowls and center casting are flat by using a straightedge. Then use only the re-usable gaskets for the bowls, metering blocks, and bowl screws.
And make certain that you lube the o-ring on the transfer tube, liberally.
And make certain that you lube the o-ring on the transfer tube, liberally.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
They are not too short, they are the correct Holley ones, yous had the old GP-Sorensen, guaranteed to strip your float bowl ones. You use the nut and screw as in your last picture, the nut adjusts the position for setting the level, screw goes last to lock it. With the bowl off the carb, and held upside down, turn the needle in until the top of the float is parallel to the top of the bowl. Then install the seal washer and screw and snug it.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
They are not too short, they are the correct Holley ones, yous had the old GP-Sorensen, guaranteed to strip your float bowl ones. You use the nut and screw as in your last picture, the nut adjusts the position for setting the level, screw goes last to lock it. With the bowl off the carb, and held upside down, turn the needle in until the top of the float is parallel to the top of the bowl. Then install the seal washer and screw and snug it.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
I have no idea. I used the NAPA rebuild kit and the new two stage power valve didn't have a number inked on it that I could see. Neither did the old one. I'm using a Holley kit next time thou. Funny thing is, that kit (3-1346) doesn't show up on the Holley tech library carb numerical listing but I know it exists. AND, if you look at the instructions for that kit, it shows the same needle valve I have now in my carb in the float adjustment section. But the replacement needle valves are not the same.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
Got the carb back on the truck and started priming the bowls with my neighbor. We see gas start dripping quickly from the accelerator pump gasket. Upon closer inspection we see the pump cover is bowed. Pulled the carb back off, pulled the pump cover off and got out the sandpaper, WD40, and a piece of flat marble and start making the cover flat again. Took about five minutes with 120 and 400 grit paper but we got the cover fixed. Put it back on the carb, carb back on the truck, and primed the bowls, no leaks! Hit the key and truck fired right up with a stable idle. Reset the timing to 10 BTDC.
One thing I did change is moved the distributor vacuum from manifold to ported and the truck idles right at 556 rpm now in Drive. The power pickup is very smooth and the truck seems to like this change a lot. Didn't touch the idle screws at all during the rebuild and manifold vac is right at 18-19" Hg. So I consider this a success.
One thing I did change is moved the distributor vacuum from manifold to ported and the truck idles right at 556 rpm now in Drive. The power pickup is very smooth and the truck seems to like this change a lot. Didn't touch the idle screws at all during the rebuild and manifold vac is right at 18-19" Hg. So I consider this a success.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
I did that. The needle valves that came in the kit were too short. I screwed them into the bowls and the tops of the valves were almost flush with the top of the threads before they would touch the floats (held upside down). The threads are not stripped out either. They were physically about 1/4" shorter than the old ones too. Believe me I was aggravated. Only other thing I can think of is incorrect floats maybe?
On the pump cover, I don't want to tell you how many of those I have straightened on a bench vise with a BFH.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Holley is not making 2 stage power valves any more.
There is an addendum to the kit instructions if you visit the page on their site.
I don't know who supplies NAPA, but they are obviously not getting parts from Holley, or you got some really old stock.
There is an addendum to the kit instructions if you visit the page on their site.
I don't know who supplies NAPA, but they are obviously not getting parts from Holley, or you got some really old stock.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
Installed the wiring harness thru the dash for my power window setup. All I had to do was remove the dash pad and remove the four screws holding the defrost vents to the firewall. I then snaked the harness behind the vents and down the sides by the doors. Now gotta drill the holes for the door harnesses, plug them in, and hook up power to the harness.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
Just an update, haven't done much to the truck in the past month. I recently reacquired my old high school motorcycle (KZ200) and have been busy stripping and cleaning it. The Nevada DMV is requiring me to smog the truck because I managed to screw up the paperwork for the yearly odometer reading that exempts it from smogging. Duh. So now I have to find a AIR pump, bracket, and the associated hoses in the junkyard. Swell.