I've heard of a few bump hoods flying up when the hood latch malfunctions. Is there something I should be doing with mine? Is this a wear problem? Lubrication problem?

 

I think just keep it working smoothly. DO NOT use WD-40 to lube it. Most people don't know WD-40 was originally designed to be a "cleaner". It lubricates temporarilly. I use spray white lithium grease to lube the hood latch,hood hinges, and door hinges. You can also use spray graphite grease.

 

Yup, just make sure the safety latch returns fully after being pulled to the side when opening hood. That is the second issue I think. If the main latch pops, you need to have the safety to hold it down.

 

Splash everything with degreaser and hose a couple of times. Then look around after it all dries. There is an adjustment. Figure it out, get it latching and wipe everything down with heavy-duty grease.
The above process will last you a lifetime.

Semper Fi

 

Say WHAT?? WD stands for water dry and was the 40th recipe attempt. It has a fish oil base so that is why folks use it to lube.

Check it out. Not a cleaner.



John

 

UM, Spray the area with your favorite lubricant. Work the moving parts many times. Latch & unlatch the hood until you can rest the hood at the latch and push down and hear the safety latch click the the main latch. No slamming, slow steady pressure, two distinct clicks.

You want to hear those 2 clicks every time. No worries then.



John

 

Here ya go buddy. Sorry John for the confusion. Maybe I should have said "also a cleaner". But I'll stand pat on the lubricates temporarilly. Especially compared to the lubes I mentioned above.


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True to your name!

Looks good to me.

 

X2 WD-40 is a good cleaner and a temporary lubricant, it's also a dust/dirt magnet. I would also side with the white lithium or the graphite.
Just make sure everything is good and clean before lubing. Work the mechanism repeatedly, and as John said, listen for those two clicks.

 

As the man who to my knowledge is the most recent case of a latch failure, I'd say it is very important to check your latch. I got a cash deal on my body work but by the time it was all said and done I was still in it $1,200 without repairing the dent on my roof. I now have aircraft cable holding my hood down as a fail safe. I also pull up hard on my hood every time I close it.

What people don't realize is that WD40 acts as a metal bonding agent after it dries. It is by far the most overused product out there. Spray some white lithium on your latch.

One thing I'd check is that your safety latch is located properly. One thing I've noticed, of course after my incident, is that with age the safety hooks don't always want to extend out.

Look at the latch. This is a brand new latch. Well, NOS, but it's the same thing. See the big hook in behind on the right? That's the safety, and that's where it needs to be.

Attachment 291837

Here's a worn latch I have lying around. Hmm, where's the safety latch?



Oh, there it is! Hiding! The latch is no longer wanting to extend outward. This is an extreme case, but it is to exemplify what happens.



A good safety latch's arm should be extended so much so that if you were to draw a line along the outer side of the safety latch arm, it would not cross over the latch body. When my latch failed, my safety's arm was parallel with the latch body. That's all it takes for a safety to fail.

One thing I've noticed between my old and new latches is that with the new one, I really have to reach in the hood gap to be able to grab the handle to pop the hood. My old one was a lot easier to grab at because the latch was worn. I'd never owned a bumpside new before, so how was I to know, right? I know now though and I'm pretty well making it my mission for no one else to have to go through what I did. Let me promise you that it sucks. If your latch is worn, spend the $80 on a new one.

 

People tend to SLAM the heavy hood down. Over time, this bends the lock plate downwards that the latch and safety catch hook to.

Sooner or later, the hood flies up. The safety catch is just about worthless.

 

Is that latching system the same assembly for 61-64?

Doesn't do any good to argue over WD40 here tho - It does a great job of flushing out a half century of dried out lubricant. That's the first step.. So does kerosene. It's just not good as a long term lubricant in this application. And not persuaded that white lithium is a very good long term or short term candidate for this either, but use something.

Speaking as a charter member of the "flying blind" club, (w/ night qualification rating) it's important to inspect, repair, replace, whatever it takes so this won't happen. Part of the problem is that hoods have been removed a couple times at least over the years and often not quite installed correctly, components bend, misaligned, and crud buildup in the mechanism. And then people start slamming the hood.

The 64 springs like a bear trap now as the hook drops into the catch. It will work so long as it is aligned. It's a little different deal than later Fords. It will need to be un-catched in order to raise the hood when it's setup right.

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

C3TZ-16700-F .. Hood Latch & C1TZ-16892-A .. Safety Catch = 1961/66 F100/700.

C9TZ-16700-A (replaced C7TZ-16700-A) .. Hood Latch = 1967/72 F100/750.

The original 1967/68 hood latch (C7TZ-16700-A) did not include the safety catch (C7TZ-16892-A), it was a separate part.