Gang,

About two months ago my Hood Safety latch went bad on my 55 F100. I bought a new one and installed it. My problem is when I go to close the hood the latch is sticking and the hood hits on it. So I have to pull the lever to get the latch to fold in toward the engine and then shut the hood. Every stock opening hood I have ever seen once you open the hood you never have to touch either of the latches to shut it. Long story short is the NEW safety latch I have installed working correctly and the other used ones I have experienced with just been "wore in"? Im used to shutting the hood with two hands but now I have to use one because the other is holding the safety latch. I want to keep the safety latch because as I get older I can get absent minded
Thanks for any and all experiences shared.

 

Mine is the same way so I'm curious to see the answer. At first I thought it was because my hood rubs on the fender due to it being slightly out of alignment, therefore not allowing enough downward pressure to pop the latch.

 

Hm. Sounds like either the latch is not centered under the pin or the valence is twisted a little. What happens if u remove two of the bolts for a test. Opposite corners only.

Sam

 

My hood latch is original to the truck from 1954. I too have to hold in the safety latch. I thought it is because my hood needs lined up better...

 

Thanks Sam. I will try that.

Abe, thanks for the info. I have the new one I installed plus two other used ones. I am going to remove the NEW one and try one of the used ones.

 

Mine is the same way. Both 56 F100 trucks I have owned were that way.

To operate them you release the first latch then release the safety latch and the hood opens. I believe your latch is woking correctly now because if the hood doesn't touch when it closes, how can it catch when it opens accidentally?

Maybe that's just too logical?

 

Grizz when you shut your hood though do you have engage the safety latch again though? With this one when I shut the hood I have not had to pull the lever for the safety latch with this one I do.

 

I just have to hold it out of the way when closing. It moves freely by itself to the ready position in case the hood latch fails.

 

Oh ok. That is what I needed. I have not ever had to hold the latch to close it. Thanks

 

I have the same problem with my 1950 F2 which has new '52 front fenders and hood. The primary latch was working OK when I got it but the secondary spring was not holding. Unfortunately I discovered a lot of bolts missing on the front fenders and the inner fender braces (unique to 51-52 - part #16272 in diagram attached) were flapping in the breeze. I took the braces off, sand blasted, did some minor welding on one of them and painted both of them. I also removed the U-shaped radiator core support (part #9 in the LMC diagram attached), cleaned and painted it. Reinstalled it and mounted a new radiator. The side bolts that hold the fender brace through the fender and to the radiator core support were a bear to line up and install even with all the bolts I could find loosened. I also removed the secondary latch, cleaned and painted the parts and installed new stainless steel attaching screws.

The front end is very solid now and everything fits well except I'm having the same problem with the hood secondary as you have to pull it toward you slightly when closing or it hits on the back of the front latch support. In addition now the primary will not latch despite multiple tries at adjusting the striker.

I'm not a body guy but I suspect that the front sheet metal as a whole is sitting too low. The radiator core support seems to be the keystone to the front sheet metal geometry. It has two bolts running through it. Those run through the front crossmember (sorry, can't find a picture) then through a pair of 1" diameter heavy springs with washers, bolts and cotter keys. This means that that core support is supposed to move up and down under certain conditions.

Again I'm not a body guy but I'm wondering if inserting a couple shims between the radiator core support and the front cross member might raise it enough to change the geometry of the hood to the front support thereby moving holes for the hood latch assembly to the rear? Can those of you that have lots of experience putting these old bodies back together help?

 

I forget if it's on the latch or the piece the latch bolts to but there is a small metal piece that you can bend to cause the latch to stop shorter. Mine was striking the hood when closing and catching when I opened it. I bent the metal stop and now the hood closes without striking the hood lip and still has to be pressed for the hood to open.
It's been a couple of years so really don't remember where the tab is but think it's on the latch it's self. The latch in the released position hits a piece of metal if I am remembering correctly. Bending that piece of metal controls how deep the latch can open. This is on my 55.
Hope this helps
Larry

 

Donald, I should add, before I had my truck painted (and another hood was put on) I did not have to hold the safety latch open to close the hood...

 

Thanks guys. I may just adapt to holding the latch "open" to close the hood. I was just so used and "spoiled" to be able to shut the hood with both hands

 

My thanks to whoever posted that the '49-'50 trucks had a longer hood dowel. Sorry, I can't find that post but you know who you are. Just for the record attached is a picture that shows the significant differences between the model years (the assembly on the right is from my 1952 hood and the assembly on the left is for 1949-50). A little cleanup and it will be as good as new.

 

HI Pete
I stumbled on your post as i am looking for a solution for my newly acquired 1954 F100 truck. It has a full front end tilt, fenders and all go forward. My problem is the hood latches and 2 fold.

In your picture i have 2 hood dowel pins like the one your show on the right in your pics, shorter one. I dont know if these are from a 54 model but what i have, one left and one right. Recently my hood flew forward going down the road..yikes! There was no safety catch so I rigged up 2 safety chains stopped it at a 6" open. But I don't want it to open at all. I have my reservations about the dowel pins unless they are just worn and need replaced. Thought about just putting 2 regular trunk release setups to replace the dowel rigs.

I took it to a local high performance guy who messed around with the adjustments etc and he got it locked down and could not get it back open. He had to put up on a lift and unbolt the latch to release it, took him all day. When i got it back, now my hood sticks UP 1/2" higher than the body. I am afraid to adjust it back down as I might get it stuck down.

That said I need some ideas on what I should do to make it fit flush again. The hood dowel on the right in your pic as you can see only has the depth of the nut for adjustment seems it should go all the way through.

Looking for a better solution so i dont have to worry about my hood. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks
Len