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I put the stock 6.0L diesel engine on par with the Chevy Vega aluminum head engine. The one sold in the 1980s I believe. You could spot them by the cloud of smoke behind them and they were not a diesel. If you owned such a Vega, you pulled into a gas station and said: "Check the gas and fill up the oil."
WRONG!!!! The Chevy Vega (and it's sister Pontiac Astre) were equipped with engines that were constructed with cast iron cylinder heads, and aluminum engine blocks with sleeves. Another engine that comes to mind from GM was the infamous Cadillac's HT4100 V8 engines of 1982 to around 1987 era. They were famous for drinking engine coolant. Don't ask me how I know.
As for Cummins, why do a lot of people insist on pronouncing and spelling them CUMMINGS? Morever, why do these same people persist on spreading untrue BS rumours that "Ford owns Cummings"?
I could use some expert help with a rough idle after long trips. I have beer, and a BBQ.
Chris
There used to be a thread on here following us. We met up with a bunch of members,, from all over the place. We just like not running all over the country in the winter. That got old after the first 7 years. It didn't pay any better whether we were on ice or dry pavement. Where are you located??? Can't drink beer,,, but rum agrees with me. Lol
So am I gonna have to create a new thread for help on the rebuild?? Man, I din't mean to start a war.
We gotta get back on track. What time frame are you going for nodesy?? Is this an emergency?? Do you have a place to do the work inside? The best way to keep us on track is put pics up. I have been wondering if the turbo pedistal is strong enough to support the engine. I made a bracket that bolts to the block using the 4 pedistal bolts to get the engine out. It'd be a cool DIY trick if it can support the weight. I don't use the lifting eyes cause that has the hoist kinda high with the cab on.
If you can use the turbo pedistal as the connection point,, then the Ficm, rear Ficm bracket, and the y pipe needs removed to comfortably get the engine out. I have been removing the tranny n trans cases (I leave them attached together) on both manuals n autos,,, it's a freakin breeze to pull and reinstall the engine with the tranny out. Then the engine mounts can be left on the block as you remove the engine. Just the 13/16 nuts need removed from the bottom of the cradle. But be ready if the tranny is out,,, the down pipe actually is what holds the engine upright. So once you get the tranny out,, put a strap from the front of the engine to the front frame flange BEFORE disconnecting the turbo from the down pipe. It's also very easy to disconnect the up, and the Y pipe with no trans in the way. Just some thoughts.
There used to be a thread on here following us. We met up with a bunch of members,, from all over the place. We just like not running all over the country in the winter. That got old after the first 7 years. It didn't pay any better whether we were on ice or dry pavement. Where are you located??? Can't drink beer,,, but rum agrees with me. Lol
This comment was meant in jest.
IF you put the Cummings engine in, does the PCM have to be programmed? I am assuming that the 1995 Cummings engine is not computer controlled. How does the transmission get it's commands?
WRONG!!!! The Chevy Vega (and it's sister Pontiac Astre) were equipped with engines that were constructed with cast iron cylinder heads, and aluminum engine blocks with sleeves.
Perhaps you are correct. I really do not remember the specifics except for the smoke. It was a long time ago but I owned a used one and it smoked like crazy (I was rolling coal in the 80s) but got good gas mileage. I was going to pull the motor and drop a 327 in it but I ran out of time and went off to college and pursued other priorities instead.
IF you put the Cummings engine in, does the PCM have to be programmed? I am assuming that the 1995 Cummings engine is not computer controlled. How does the transmission get it's commands?
To do this ^^^^^^^^ You will be stepping into the world of standalone TCM/PCMs and
a lot of programming to make it all work.
You really want to know what a, nightmare it is to put a cummins in a Ford? Go ask the guy over at Powerstroke.org. He wishes he never did it, and he's up to his ears in problems
All right, everyone. I might be looking at option #3, which I never even considered until today. This option came to light mostly for financial reasons, but I am eager to hear what you think. Remember I said that I have a 1-ton F350 6.0 sitting in the driveway with 130,000 miles on it that runs like a top? Well, it is the exact same engine as the one I need to pull out of the Excursion. I know it will be extra labor on my part, but I think I am going to put the good 6.0 from the F350 in the Excursion (which I need on the road by March) and make my decision on the bad 6.0 (rebuild or Cummins swap) and put that into the F350. I am heavily considering this option for the following reasons:
- It will only cost me labor (my own, therefore no cost).
- I need the Excursion on the road by March and finances are currently tight. Debt is not appealing.
- The Cummins swap is more appealing in the F350 because it has a manual 6-speed transmission and I wouldn't think you would have transmission "tuning" issues like you would trying to mate the Cummins with the 5R110. Unless I am totally missing something...If I come up with some cash, I can always rebuild the 6.0 I will be pulling out of the Excursion and put it into the F350 when I can (wouldn't mind a spare 6.0 sitting around either).
I know I am kind of all over the place here but bear with me. What do you guys think????
Get the truck and do a compression test on that cylinder,if it's low pull the head and ck it out,if the piston and cylinder sleeve isn't scored and it's just the head,get it fixed and reassemble,go thru the maintenance and enjoy the ride
Sell the Dodge. Use the money from the sale to put into the Excursion. Why haven't you thought of that already? Swapping out a drivetrain that is ten years older into a newer vehicle makes sense how? That's not to mention all the fabrication involved, which only adds that much more PITA to the process with only the end result being a really hacked up ride.
You are correct that you currently have two 6.0s in your possession that are of identical model year (I saw that you have a 2003 engine in your 2004 Excursion). There is one minor hurdle you haven't considered which I'm about to bring to your attention. The two engines (manual and automatic transmission applications) have completely different bellhousing bolt patterns. To pull your "good" 6.0 engine from your F-350 to use in your Excursion, you will need to swap to out the rear engine covers as well, which means turbo, intake manifold and HPOP cover removal on both engines once they're out to swap them over.
That is going to be step #1. However, according to the mechanic who diagnosed the failure, he sees very tiny possibility the cylinder is unscathed. If it is in good shape, I will make the repair and leave it in the vehicle. However, I can put in the labor and buy myself some time by moving the 6.0 from truck to Excursion if the cylinder requires machining.
m-chan68,
At that point, I can decide whether to sell the Dodge and rebuild the pulled 6.0 or do the swap. By the way, I really do value your opinion.
If I pull the 6.0 out of my truck, do you recommend any work/inspection be done to it before I put it into the Excursion? I was thinking of taking the truck down to Ford and have them check it over. However, the last time I did that (30,000 miles ago), they told me I had $4,500 worth of work to do on it. I got a second opinion, changed out the ICP sensor myself and it has been running like a champ ever since. Kind of soured me on Ford service departments to be honest...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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