Looks like inflation kicked in another 1k. :-$

 

So if I have the new one installed, should I wait until two year warranty is up before I delete EGR?

 

Why get a brand new engine when someone can just rebuild your old one with an overhaul kit for way less?

It also helps control costs when you hand them the rebuild kit you bought from Ford as opposed to them cleaning you out for the kit.

 

one of my biggest fears is getting nickle-and-dimed to death. I really just need to get this old motor diagnosed and go from there. A brand new motor with warranty does give some piece of mind...

 

Do a compression test on that bank and go from there. If it passes, go with 8 injectors, new lifters, BP HPOP, clean turbo, EGR delete, DC power alternator, Blue spring kit, head studs and away you go from alot less than 13K. If it fails do above plus a rebuild. Buying a new engine at 13K seems ridiculous.

 

^^^^^^^^^what he said

 

Very true, but you can have a few shops bid the job.

I talked to 3 shops before I went with Powerstroke Enginuities. They gave me the best bang for my buck and come to find out were a well known, reputable shop.

-DI Performance told me almost $7K, they go far, almost too far with the job.

-A mechanic who did side jobs wanted $4K to do it, but after asking him what he used for the job and how he went about things, I scratched him off the list. (From the sound of things he played it by ear and didn't know proper Ford procedures)

-there was one other shop I talked to, but they didn't inspire me with confidence.

-I definitely wasn't going to waste my time with Powerstroke Magic, they've rubbed me the wrong way and done me in before.

-PSE got to do it because of their reputation and because most of the techs who work there are ex-Ford mechanics.

The bottom line: Shop around, get estimate, and negotiate. If they really want your business they'll work with you.

 

I have a friend that opted for a brand new motor once (gas). He figured he wouldn't have any problems being all new. Well, within 6 months he replaced a starter, alternator, distributer, water pump, and an oil pump, all brand new. Talk about being mad, he decided next time he would just do a rebuild.
Just weigh out the options, nothing is guaranteed and most external parts and wear parts of the motor are NOT covered under the warranty. So you could add the replacement costs of additional things to the 15k of the motor. Another factor would be additional downtime.

 

Anyone know of any reputable diesel shops around Wyoming?

 

One other thing - Some people are telling me not to crank the engine because of what might be in the cylinder. Others are saying perform compression test. Confused...

 

You remove the glow plugs to do a compression test. That clears the cylinders and then you can crank without worrying about bending or cracking the rods.

 

DO THIS^^^^^^^^^^
ALL I will add is to Disable the Fuel pump so its not pumping in fuel

But Stay back out the engine bay upon those first cranks when you clear the fuel out the cylinders

[U]It COMES OUT WITH LETHAL FORCE!!!!!!!!!!![/U]SO don't be sticking your head in there to see until you know cylinder is cleared

Be safe I would feel Terrible if something BAD happened to you if you was in the wrong place at the wrong time

 

First, the word "warranty" can mean lots of different things.

I would make sure I knew what "warranty" means with regard to your engine and then with that knowledge one can better answer the above question.

The best policy is to NOT give the party providing the warranty any wiggle room to get out of the warranty; Which probably means no mods and no tuners.

Second, the mechanic that repaired my 6.0, and did a fantastic job, has installed several of the engines from Asheville Engines. He says he has had no problems with the engines he has installed. I have not use an Asheville Engine but I have seen one in person and they look new.

If one purchases the 20 over bore one should have no more than $8,000 (about) in the engine (installed).

If one purchases the stock bore one should have no more than $7,000 in the engine (installed).

And these engines come with ARP head studs.

They come with a 12 month warranty (unlimited mileage).

Asheville Engine Rebuilders - Home

I talked to this Asheville engine guy several times and was about to purchase an engine from him but as it turned out I did not need a new engine - just top end work. He rebuilds 6.0 engines daily and ships them all over the country. He was willing to give me references of people in my area that had purchased his engines but I did not ask for them (as I did not purchase an engine).

There is always a risk with rebuild work. All I can say is that I have seen one of these engines in person and they look new. And the X-Ford mechanic that now has his own shop and does nothing but 6.0 work (and owns a 6.0) has installed several of these engines and has had zero issues.

Just an FYI, I have nothing to gain if you purchase from Asheville engines as I have no business relationship with this company. I just try to help people save money where I can and saving $7000 to $8000 is a lot of savings.

Funny, you could install an Asheville engine, run the crap out of it for two or three years and then install a second engine for less than $15,000.

 

If I were to have to rebuild due to base engine damage I would likely do the OEM reman short block @ just north of 5 grand having the piece of mind it was correctly rebuilt would be worth it to me. And getting a long block at just north of 9 grand isn't too bad either provided that it comes with new injectors and HPOP and front and rear covers. Perhaps one of our resident techs could shed some light on what the long block comes with? And the complete engine comes in just above 12 grand, these are prices from autonation ford white bear lake ( formerly tousley ford parts )

 

Gonna give Asheville engines a call tomorrow.