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Why a coolant filter can damage your engine?

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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:34 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Most oil passages are drilled and machined.

But you do have a valid point.

Josh
And oil is always filtered from day one.......

You also don't hear claims about oil filters removing the additive packages from oil either.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:37 AM
  #32  
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Mines 5/8 works good
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:48 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390


Josh
How does she not get lipstick on her pop corn
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:49 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by the_auto_tech
I'm confused by that. It says that the coolant filter has removed the silicates that have fallen out of suspension due to not maintaining the coolant properly. So they're saying that you WANT a silicate coolant? Silicate is sand. Sand is what's been clogging up the oil coolers. It doesn't make sense to me as to why almost all of the long-life coolants these days are silicate free when this person says you need the silicates? Totally lost here. Also, this is the first time I've EVER heard of anyone saying a coolant filter is bad. I think what's being confused is the difference between an SCA and a non-SCA filter. Also, I agree with Benny. The stuff that was in my filter was for sure sand. Silicate drop out looks quite a bit different than sand does.
Hope this helps..
Ford gold uses silicates to reduce chances of cavitation.
Elc, silicate free, uses a diff method to prevent cVitation. When switching to elc, you should, vc9/restore to remove silicate coating. The down side, it takes 5 k miles for the elc anti cav. Coating to become fully effective.

I'm not sure what causes silicate dropout

Sent from my Sprint PC36100 using IB AutoGroup
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
And oil is always filtered from day one.......

You also don't hear claims about oil filters removing the additive packages from oil either.
Casting sand in the oil passages would trash the LPOP in no time.

Also, the oil bypasses the filter significantly more than you think it does. Especially cold start and WOT

Either way.... LOL

Josh
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:22 AM
  #36  
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Where's highbinder and his chemistry? Didn't he test a bunch of crap that came out of a clogged oil cooler and figure out what it was? If the oil cooler itself it pulling silicates out of the coolant, is a bypass filter any worse than a full-flow component inside the engine? Plus you should change out Ford Gold every 30k anyway, how much is the coolant degrading in that short of a time period?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 01:18 PM
  #37  
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More reading!

Cavitation,_SCAs_and_the_Proper_Maintenance_of Diesel_Engine_Cooling_Systems
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #38  
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Wonder if a lot of what we have seen over the years was due to poor mixing levels of the coolant.

Silicate Gelation

Sodium silicate is added to the antifreeze to protect the aluminum surfaces from corrosion and pitting. Silicate gelation is the tendency for silicate that is added to antifreeze to drop out of the solution and form a jelly like substance that will plug radiators, heaters, aftercoolers and other parts of the cooling system.

This drop out of silicate can be attributed to a combination of factors and cooling system interactions, including:


• Higher amounts of silicate and phosphate in coolant

• Hotter running engines

• Aftercoolers

• Additive packages



When antifreeze is overconcentrated with SCAs, the excess silicate will drop out of the coolant and form silicate gel on heat transfer surfaces. This results in reduced coolant flow and engine overheating. It is also possible for silicate to drop out at low coolant temperature and plug radiator tubes. The reduction of the sodium silicate in the coolant makes the solution evaporate in a shorter period of time.

Additionally, coolant that has evaporated due to the drop out of silicates will leave a white, caked, powder-like substance.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 01:42 PM
  #39  
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That's a good write up.

I have 06 f350 6.0 160K earier this year ford did a flush and changed coolant. Im now adding a filter from BD Diesel, Still using the ford Gold for now. I will make sure it gets flushed and changed every 2 years, 40 to 50 K, and regularly change coolant filter and inspect. Also keep a close eye on temps while driving.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #40  
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This (link above^^) is one of the documents I ran across that leads me to believe it's important to flush with chemicals when changing coolant TYPES. May people are understandably hesitant to use restore/VC9 etc because of concerns about loosening corrosion and other junk and clogging an oil cooler thats working well. But in reality you are mixing chemicals that are not designed to work together. A fresh water flush doesn't remove the residue from the previous coolant.

Back on subject, the "sand is silicate drop out" theory is simply incorrect. The issue of removing all the sand after the block is cast has been ongoing for many years, there were similar problems with the 7.3 and most other manufacturers have had issues at one time or another. Castings are designed with consideration for cleaning. Corners have fillets or are some times areas are completely filled with molten iron when it's not structurally necessary because the sand would be difficult to remove from these areas. Good old green coolant is based on a silicate and I have found manufactures info to retailers recommending rotating stock so that the bottles don't settle out. That is to say, it doesn't even require heat for the settling to occur in the green coolant. And finally, in all the stuff I read the precipitate is described as a jell or refers to "jelling", nothing refers to crystalizing or sand like precipitate.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 06:38 PM
  #41  
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Looks like the OP took his ball and went home.

 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
Where's highbinder and his chemistry? Didn't he test a bunch of crap that came out of a clogged oil cooler and figure out what it was? If the oil cooler itself it pulling silicates out of the coolant, is a bypass filter any worse than a full-flow component inside the engine? Plus you should change out Ford Gold every 30k anyway, how much is the coolant degrading in that short of a time period?
I couldn't agree more.I run a coolant filter and change the coolant every 30K on the dot,Put the Gold back in and drive on.No problems and great deltas to date.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 05:09 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by loubell
It all sounds good in theory. But without testing of the filter contents, its all just internet chatter to me.

Same thing with the OTR trucks. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough, but I have never seen a pH testing kit at any of the big truck stops.
You won't find them in the C-store or the fuel island.

You'll have to go to the shop to find them at all. And the shop may not be willing to part with them.

Go to a big-truck dealer parts department or heavy-truck-parts store (TruckPro, Inland Truck Parts, etc)

A bottle of 50 test strips will run you about $10-$20.

Pencool is the brand I've used.

-blaine
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 09:20 AM
  #44  
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Hmmm....I still like my theory,a coolant filter is cheap insurance and a good monitoring device. Maintenance is the key!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 04:05 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by _Me2_
Looks like the OP took his ball and went home.

No. . .I'm still here. I was wondering if there was any consensus on this topic.
Apparently not, or at least not yet.

I tend to lean toward the owner of the garage's point-of-view from which the quote was pulled.
He could sell coolant filter kits if he wanted, but he doesn't.
Nor does he provide a recommendation to install one.
That's a pretty strong "recommendation" in itself.
 
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