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Dylan go ahead and grab a 12v led at Radio Shack. About $3, use any small wire laying around.
Crimp a connector spade big enough to contact large post without rubber cover. Run into the cab. I just grounded my led right under the steering wheel on the dash frame.
My led just lays on my brake controller until ready to mount with guage pod someday.
Perfect time to do it while your swapping relay's. The GPR109 should be $25 at napa. When the stancor comes you will have a backup to help someone with.
Glad it was relay and not plugs.
Alright explain to me the benifits of this stancor relay. I'm just curious.
Sorry I have never bought a stancor. I am cheap, don't drive my F250 daily.
I am just saying pick up 109 local and if ya get a Stancor later. Keep 109 in glovebox.
Stancor is supposed to be rated better for voltage and longevity. Many great reviews on the forums.
Napa can get ya going tomorrow. Mine's been on a yr but only 8,000 miles
Im gonna order it this friday and then install it the weekend I go see Diehard. Ill just bare with the block heater for another two weeks. It is suppose to warm up here so Ill only plug it in at night.
But this Stancor relay sounds like a good idea. Looks mean too!!
And Diehard is taking an electronics class so he is going to see if he can collect the correct LEDs and spades will need.
Both posts read zero volts no matter what happened with the key.
One post had 12 V and one post had zero volts at all times.
#2 is a bad relay (most likely). Nobody confirmed if the signal to activate was reaching the GPR.
#1 is a bad connection, I can find no fusible link or fuse between the glow plug relay post and the battery.
12V was the post on the battery, that's how I tested the meter. I then put the meter on the exposed post side of the relay. Zeros about 3 times.
I never tested the battery side of the relay, the side that is covered by a rubber end.
12V was the post on the battery, that's how I tested the meter. I then put the meter on the exposed post side of the relay. Zeros about 3 times. I never tested the battery side of the relay, the side that is covered by a rubber end.
That was what I was saying needs to be tested as well. You need to make sure the left side post, on the passenger side w/ the boot, is reading somewhat the same volts as the battery. The key does not need to be on to test this. This is to insure that the relay is getting power from the battery.
That was what I was saying needs to be tested as well. You need to make sure the left side post, on the passenger side w/ the boot, is reading somewhat the same volts as the battery. The key does not need to be on to test this. This is to insure that the relay is getting power from the battery.
You will have to determine why it is not getting power from your battery. Could be a loose connection, but I doubt this is an issue. I bet you have voltage at your relay and you will have a reading near your battery's voltage.
Okay, dylan you did test the constant side of the relay. When I had you put the ground lead on the ground for the battery, and the positive lead on the post that was partially covered on the relay, you told me it read 12.653 volts