Block Heater
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Paw Paw
Get yourself a plug in volt meter that plugs into the dash power port. I bought this from Wally world..
You should see the following reading if the GPR is working.
1) when plugged in you should see 12.5v
2) when you turn the key to on and the wait to start light comes on it should read 11.5v. glow plug relay is 'on'.... if the voltage does not 'drop' then you may have a problem with the relay.
3) when the 'wait to start' light goes out (and you had the voltage drop to 11.5v) if it is really cold then cycle the glow plugs again to get the chamber really hot. Now turn the key to start the truck. your voltage meter will drop to about 11v. If the meter drops below 10.5 the truck Will Not Start as you need at least 10.5v for it to start.
4) when the truck starts, the voltage should be 12.5v. When the GPR shuts off the voltage will slowly rise to 14.5v. this last number of the voltage is the output of the alternator.
5) Do you have any questions?
You should see the following reading if the GPR is working.
1) when plugged in you should see 12.5v
2) when you turn the key to on and the wait to start light comes on it should read 11.5v. glow plug relay is 'on'.... if the voltage does not 'drop' then you may have a problem with the relay.
3) when the 'wait to start' light goes out (and you had the voltage drop to 11.5v) if it is really cold then cycle the glow plugs again to get the chamber really hot. Now turn the key to start the truck. your voltage meter will drop to about 11v. If the meter drops below 10.5 the truck Will Not Start as you need at least 10.5v for it to start.
4) when the truck starts, the voltage should be 12.5v. When the GPR shuts off the voltage will slowly rise to 14.5v. this last number of the voltage is the output of the alternator.
5) Do you have any questions?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
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First, clean the cable lamps and connections on the other end of the cables. Then, you would need to load test the batteries individually, then check the alternator. FYI, always replace batteries in sets.
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From: Paw Paw
My cables look fine. The last time I was under there I checked that. I will just have to get the volt meter and see what it has to say...
Thanks guys! Lots of info and lots of new stuff!
Thanks guys! Lots of info and lots of new stuff!
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From: Paw Paw
Alright so I plugged the truck in after lunch around 1-1:15. I got in the truck at 3:30 and the temps weren't what they usually all after I have plugged in for 6 hours but that's not why I'm posting. I know you guys said 2-3 hours would be just fine. So I'm thinking it may be the relay like you guys suggested earlier...
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 841
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From: Monroe, MI
Just check it with your torque app...I did it this morning and worked perfectly, 12.5 volts key on, dropped to 11.5. Cranking it dropped to 10.9 then once on it worked its way up to 14.3
I dont see why you would buy a volt metre when you can just check it with that...
I dont see why you would buy a volt metre when you can just check it with that...
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 659
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From: Millstone, NJ
Alright so I plugged the truck in after lunch around 1-1:15. I got in the truck at 3:30 and the temps weren't what they usually all after I have plugged in for 6 hours but that's not why I'm posting. I know you guys said 2-3 hours would be just fine. So I'm thinking it may be the relay like you guys suggested earlier...
Like I said, white smoke coming from the tailpipe will indicate a bad GPR or bad glow plugs. Start at the GPR first before diving in to change glow plugs.
Or like diehardstroker said, if you have access to phone app or votmeter or scangauge II (like I have), then you can read the parameters to see what's going on.
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From: Paw Paw
Yea like I said yesterday I blow tons of white smoke on cold starts. I tried 12 times before giving it gas to start...
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Usual suspects for white smoke (unburned fuel) at cold start:
- Low compression
- Low ICP
- GPR system failure
- Tired/faulty injector(s)
- SOI timing in tune
- 15-40 oil
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 659
Likes: 1
From: Millstone, NJ
I thought I could get away with using the block heater cord and eventually that failed and yes, in the middle of winter too.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 249
From: Ringgold, Ga
If you have a Napa near by get a gpr 109 for under $25.
Remember the wait to start light only on for 15 secs. Gpr will stay on up to 2 mins on first start of day.
The led mod lets ya know win it goes off, or the volt reading gauge. Then fire up the truck
Remember the wait to start light only on for 15 secs. Gpr will stay on up to 2 mins on first start of day.
The led mod lets ya know win it goes off, or the volt reading gauge. Then fire up the truck
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,243
Likes: 16
From: AZ
This is one of the things that new owners miss a lot. When it is cold out they want to start the truck up immediately to warm it up...the LED mod and 5-40 synthetic oil are great ways to improve low temperature startability.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 683
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From: cincinnati, oh.
i thought the same thing, but noticed an improvement after cleaning them anyway. it cant hurt, and its free.
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Senior User
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From: Paw Paw
So what do you mean about the GPR staying on? Even though the wait to start goes off I should wait a few more second to try to start it?
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From: Paw Paw
Well I'm trying to charge the phone that the Torque app is on so I can plug in the OBD II that I use to see my volts, and then I'll try to post my numbers before the end of day if not I'll have to post them tomorrow.