Block Heater
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: BoCoMo
(Deleted because of lack of added value to thread 
)
Did you not watch the video on how to test the GPR?
Also, refer to post #9. that is solid information.
Also, I bought a NAPA (tell them the stock number, not year, engine size) GPR-109, a couple of years ago. It went bad after 2 winters. Took it back and was told that it had a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. By using the method in post #9, I knew the GRP was 'going'..... I took the used GPR-109 off the truck and NAPA handed me a new one.
)Did you not watch the video on how to test the GPR?
Also, refer to post #9. that is solid information.
Also, I bought a NAPA (tell them the stock number, not year, engine size) GPR-109, a couple of years ago. It went bad after 2 winters. Took it back and was told that it had a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. By using the method in post #9, I knew the GRP was 'going'..... I took the used GPR-109 off the truck and NAPA handed me a new one.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Paw Paw
This seems to have turned into a Chinese fire drill.
Did you not watch the video on how to test the GPR?
Also, refer to post #9. that is solid information.
Also, I bought a NAPA (tell them the stock number, not year, engine size) GPR-109, a couple of years ago. It went bad after 2 winters. Took it back and was told that it had a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. By using the method in post #9, I knew the GRP was 'going'..... I took the used GPR-109 off the truck and NAPA handed me a new one.
Did you not watch the video on how to test the GPR?
Also, refer to post #9. that is solid information.
Also, I bought a NAPA (tell them the stock number, not year, engine size) GPR-109, a couple of years ago. It went bad after 2 winters. Took it back and was told that it had a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. By using the method in post #9, I knew the GRP was 'going'..... I took the used GPR-109 off the truck and NAPA handed me a new one.
I don't see a bunch of guys running around a truck. The problem was found and is being replaced in the next few days. Then once the relay is in place the testing of glow plugs will be this weekend....
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Senior User
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From: Paw Paw
Well my test for anything wrong with the plugs is gonna be hook up the OBD II scanner and see what my volts are while crank. I figure if I'm over 10.5V on a crank my plugs are okay. But if I do need to put new glow plugs in then of course I'll have a picture thread, step by step.
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Senior User
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From: Paw Paw
I guess it was just an educated guess because the dead relay dropped my volts on a crank to not start. Maybe not.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: BoCoMo
A "Dead Relay" (GPR) will Not drop your voltage as no voltage is going through it. A 'Good' relay (GPR) will cause the voltage to drop because your Glow Plugs are coming on and pulling a bunch of power.
Are your batteries shot or do you have bad connections?
There may be more going on here than just the GPR.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Paw Paw
And why do you think that?
Every time I get into my truck my voltage gauge on the dash never moves from 14. I tested the batteries with the bolt meter, like I said, and got 12....
Every time I get into my truck my voltage gauge on the dash never moves from 14. I tested the batteries with the bolt meter, like I said, and got 12....
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 107
From: BoCoMo
Testing a battery with a volt meter will test you the voltage but not the amperage. Have you disconnected your batteries from the truck and had them Load Tested? With a dead battery cell or two, the voltage will still be '12.5' volts, but when you start cranking your truck battery can drop so fast that there is not enough amperage to start the truck.
A bad Glow Plug Relay pulls no power at all because there is no way for power to go through it.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Monroe, MI
His batteries are fine, his truck cranks over like a champ, I'm willing to bet that the voltage were seeing on the app isn't to accurate, how often it records voltage change needs to be adjusted, it could be every 5 seconds which wouldn't help in this situation. There's a lot of factors going into starting these things, and obviously a bad GPR and lead to no start situations or long cranking. To clear up any confusion, all connections are good, he gets 12v to the relay but when key is on he doesn't read 12v. So its obviously a bad relay. His truck cranks over like the batteries are brand new. I can promise you his batters are darn close to 100%
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Senior User
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From: Paw Paw
Is the volt gauge on the dash at 14v when it is running? that is the output of the alternator.
Testing a battery with a volt meter will test you the voltage but not the amperage. Have you disconnected your batteries from the truck and had them Load Tested? With a dead battery cell or two, the voltage will still be '12.5' volts, but when you start cranking your truck battery can drop so fast that there is not enough amperage to start the truck.
A bad Glow Plug Relay pulls no power at all because there is no way for power to go through it.
Testing a battery with a volt meter will test you the voltage but not the amperage. Have you disconnected your batteries from the truck and had them Load Tested? With a dead battery cell or two, the voltage will still be '12.5' volts, but when you start cranking your truck battery can drop so fast that there is not enough amperage to start the truck.
A bad Glow Plug Relay pulls no power at all because there is no way for power to go through it.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 659
Likes: 1
From: Millstone, NJ
To be honest, I'm not sure. When I bought mine it didn't come with one.
I'm going to go ahead and say no though.
The relay is big, but it fits. Here it is on my previous 7.3. The blue wire is the LED mod:
I'm going to go ahead and say no though.
The relay is big, but it fits. Here it is on my previous 7.3. The blue wire is the LED mod:
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Paw Paw
Looks good!