Frame reassembly?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Frame reassembly?
Sending the frame out this Friday for blasting and powdercoating. I would like to drill out the rivets and have the qhole thong rust free and coated. If I choose to do so, do I just use grade 8 bolts and nuts for reassembly? Nylon lock nuts or just lock washers? Any help is appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Sending the frame out this Friday for blasting and powdercoating. I would like to drill out the rivets and have the qhole thong rust free and coated. If I choose to do so, do I just use grade 8 bolts and nuts for reassembly? Nylon lock nuts or just lock washers? Any help is appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
I would put it together kinda "loose" then, before I tightened everything down, measure diagonally at the four corners of the frame ("X" pattern). The two measurements should be within 1/8". If it is, the frame is square and you can tighten everything up.
If it is out of spec it might take a frame shop to straighten it.
If it is out of spec it might take a frame shop to straighten it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Get some thread chasers because powdercoating will get into the threads and they'll need to be cleaned out. Alternatively, install spare bolts in the threaded holes.
Avoid using taps because that makes 'em a hair loose.
If it's a 4x4, I'd throw some extra welds on welded crossmembers before powdercoating.
Avoid using taps because that makes 'em a hair loose.
If it's a 4x4, I'd throw some extra welds on welded crossmembers before powdercoating.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: MASS
If you're sending it out this Friday for blasting, you'd better get going on it ASAP!!! It'll take longer than you think.
When I reassemble, my plan is to use Black Oxide Grade 8's (to match close to frame color), then putting a tac-weld on the nut/bolt once it's torqued down. No need to worry about Loc-Tite or Nylocks or Crush Washers. The chances of having to take the part off is nill, and if I did, sacrificing a couple dollar nut/bolt/flat washers is no big deal. Just touch the tac-weld with the grinder and off it comes.
When I reassemble, my plan is to use Black Oxide Grade 8's (to match close to frame color), then putting a tac-weld on the nut/bolt once it's torqued down. No need to worry about Loc-Tite or Nylocks or Crush Washers. The chances of having to take the part off is nill, and if I did, sacrificing a couple dollar nut/bolt/flat washers is no big deal. Just touch the tac-weld with the grinder and off it comes.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 12
From: NW Indiana
I won't recommend nylocks. Those things have there place but not for CM's.. I can
strip out even the gr 8 one's with a good impact.
Get Grade 8 flanged lock nuts....way better and rock solid
strip out even the gr 8 one's with a good impact.
Get Grade 8 flanged lock nuts....way better and rock solid
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