When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
*Unnecessary intro*
Hi All - new truck owner and new member here. I purchased a 1985 F350 4wd SRW long bed with a 460 back in January, and have been researching, reading, and learning all about it since then. I have found these forums indispensable, and have simply neglected joining as I haven't needed to post any questions or responses.
*Question*
Is it possible to weld on / weld parts to the frames of these trucks?
I have searched, and found a few threads, but none that address this exact issue, and the reason I am asking is that I have done some research for friends with different years/makes/models of trucks, and have found some frames simply don't take to welding well (different metals, etc - weld fail). I'd like to do some things here or there (ex: rock sliders / side steps), and just want to know if I should design these parts to be weld-in only, or rely on high grade bolts.
It's best to use bolts. If you look at the way the factory put the frame together, they used rivets, very little welding.
The reason is the heat weakens the frame. Look at the frame and the pieces again, they are are folded and punched. The main frame sides are a bent and folded "C", not formed and made with heat like a regular c-channel would be. This work hardens the metal and makes it stiff. Every hole they punch work hardens the metal around the hole. When you weld on the frame it softens and takes out this "work hardening".
Have people welded on these frames and had no problems? Sure. But it's better to take the high road and bolt it if you can. The only thing you have to watch out for is the thickness of the frame area where you are bolting. The frame is pretty thin in most areas, so you should back the frame up on the other side with large homemade washers to spread the force over a wider area.
It's best to use bolts. If you look at the way the factory put the frame together, they used rivets, very little welding.
The reason is the heat weakens the frame. Look at the frame and the pieces again, they are are folded and punched. The main frame sides are a bent and folded "C", not formed and made with heat like a regular c-channel would be. This work hardens the metal and makes it stiff. Every hole they punch work hardens the metal around the hole. When you weld on the frame it softens and takes out this "work hardening".
Have people welded on these frames and had no problems? Sure. But it's better to take the high road and bolt it if you can. The only thing you have to watch out for is the thickness of the frame area where you are bolting. The frame is pretty thin in most areas, so you should back the frame up on the other side with large homemade washers to spread the force over a wider area.
Thanks for the very detailed answer - lots of good information and education there.
Now, in other applications, I have heard of / seen people box the frame in. Would there be and good reason(s) to, or NOT to, box the frame?
Perhaps even tack a plate on the back side of the C channel and run the bolts through both sides of the frame?
You could box the frame. The strength you would gain from the boxing would probably overcome any weakening from the heat of welding it. But it would be a lot of work, and a lot of crossmembers to deal with.
It's best to use bolts. If you look at the way the factory put the frame together, they used rivets, very little welding.
The reason is the heat weakens the frame. Look at the frame and the pieces again, they are are folded and punched. The main frame sides are a bent and folded "C", not formed and made with heat like a regular c-channel would be. This work hardens the metal and makes it stiff. Every hole they punch work hardens the metal around the hole. When you weld on the frame it softens and takes out this "work hardening".
Have people welded on these frames and had no problems? Sure. But it's better to take the high road and bolt it if you can. The only thing you have to watch out for is the thickness of the frame area where you are bolting. The frame is pretty thin in most areas, so you should back the frame up on the other side with large homemade washers to spread the force over a wider area.
I'm in agreement with this. During the era of the 7th Gen trucks, metallurgy was in turmoil due to outside economic influences causing thinner steel not to mention EPA influence regarding steel production. I would go a step further than washers using measured steel plates.....with bolts. The bridges that still stand were built using steel rivets which were heat fired and penned over with hammer force, not welding.
The blue/gray house in frame 4 belonged to my godmother and her family back in 1983.
She said the traffic overhead "sounded funny" and that the pigeons weren't roosting for days before the rusty link let go.
The blue/gray house in frame 4 belonged to my godmother and her family back in 1983.
She said the traffic overhead "sounded funny" and that the pigeons weren't roosting for days before the rusty link let go.
Yipes! That is scary. And the pigeons knew. That's really interesting.
Then weld it...no worries. Just be sure to check back in 6 months or so after a few miles of rough, uneven half reconstructed roads....I'd be interested in the survey results. How many miles do you log per day on your bullnose ? Personally....I rack up 40 to 55. The Engineer's certainly hit the mark with mine....All it takes is faith and a little trust in your own ability with Fords..have a wonderful night !
Then weld it...no worries. Just be sure to check back in 6 months or so after a few miles of rough, uneven half reconstructed roads....I'd be interested in the survey results. How many miles do you log per day on your bullnose ? Personally....I rack up 40 to 55. The Engineer's certainly hit the mark with mine....All it takes is faith and a little trust in your own ability with Fords..have a wonderful night !
I worked for a truck shop back in the 80's and we did a lot of frame (wheelbase) extensions (semi-trucks not PUs). We cut the frames added in new sections and welded them. There was also an additional support piece added/bolted to the inside extending about 12 inches to each side of the welds - but those welds never broke or cracked.
FYI- check with a frame shop- there were frames produced in that period that are "no-weld"......the vin number will provide (should) the specifics you need to verify. If you do have a no-weld frame and weld on it, it may initially look ok but there is a an excellent chance of a spontaneous failure (collapse) down the road...could be months or years.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.