Hey There

I've reached the point with my highboy where it has been reduced to the frame and the differentials it sits on.

I noticed some rust at the rear crossmember and where it was bolted to the frame. I ground the rivets off carefully, and popped it out.

I now figure I'm going to do this with all the crossmembers. Remove them, clean the mating surfaces, protect them appropriately, and then reassemble. (all other cross members are in excellent condition, as are the rails themselves.)

I'm thinking that if i just were to clean up and protect the frame as it were, that rust would be left unchecked to spread out from between the mating surfaces, even if it took years. i want to do this right!!!!!

i just wonder if anyone has any advice about how to reassemble appropriately. I'd like it be original spec, but don't know whats involved with the rivets. Something tells me i'm not gonna be rivetting my frame in my under-equipped garage!

thanks!!

 

Pass on the rivits. Either get stainless or good grade 5 bolts, loc-tite, and have a ball. Know what the proper torque is for the size bolts you're putting in and loc-tite them to those specs. If they are not stainless then paint them after you install them. Some folks will say grade 8 bolts but I think that is a bit of over kill.

 

Our motto in the garage is "If a little is good, more's got to be gooder." (haha) I'd have the frame sandblasted, and put back together with grade 8 bolts and self-locking nuts. That's what I'd do, just my two cents.

 

thanks for the good ideas.. sandblasting will definitly be involved.

 

I had my frame sandblasted for $300.00 I thought that was reasonable.

 

Grade 5, loctite, and paint. Commercial sandblasters are your best bet.

They may have more info down in the Bodywork forum.

 

I picked up some black zinc chromate paint at the local auto paint store that is excellent for frames. Not sure if it's the type you can weld through but I would use it inside and out on any pieces you take apart.

 

First off, do not use stainless steel bolts, they can fatigue and break over a period of time when subjected to constant flex. There really is no real subsitute for the rivets on a frame, but, considering how hot you have to get them and hit them from the other side, it might not be for you. If you have a torch, you might be able to do it in your garage by yourself. It really works best with two men, one holder, one slammer, and you have to be fast. Otherwise you will find yourself drilling out the rivets again. If you go this method, bolt everything together tight, then remove one bolt at a time while you are riveting. It should be bare metal to metal where the cross members are.

If you bolt this frame together, you should really weld it too. Or have someone that is very experienced do it for you because of the stress relief you have to do to the metal.

Do not use nylon locking nuts. Use the oval shaped metal locking nuts if you have to. Though if you torque a nut correctly you do not need that or even a lock washer. What I have used for frame and radius arm replacements that seems to hold up pretty well is a :

1/2" bolt, lock washer, washer, frame frame washer, lock, nut

torque to at least 100 foot pounds. I found on my rear frame, 90 worked best because at 100 I was bending the frame itself. Use blue lock-tite.

Most of the holes are probably 3/8, I drill mine out to 1/2" for both strength and to make sure the hole is prefectly sized and round so the shoulder of the bolt barely fits through the hole and usually I have to thread the bolt it. Sometimes it needs a slight tap to force it in. This way there is no play. It takes a lot to shear a grade 8 1/2 bolt.

If you want to skip the lock-tite, on the rear members so can probably hit the bottom of the nut with a MIG welder on its lowest setting. I would not do it on the front because you need the full strength of the nut to deal with the flex of the front suspension. Plus, the frame is 6-8 inches there and there is more shear and compression force on the bolt and nut.

I like to box my frames, if possible, front and rear, though if you are doing just a restore you might want to skip it. The rear of my frame was pretty weak and spread slightly I suspect from the previous owner ARC welding 1" plates to each side (!) for his redneck trailer hitch and the loads. So, if you are going to tow, you might want to do it just for the back. I would go with 1/4 steel for the cross member and make sure it fit exactly. I used 3/16 on mine (same as the frame) and I actually bent the frame rails tightening down the 1/2 bolts. If this was not a work truck used for logging I might have been upset.

 

I personally wouldn't get so carried away with taking out ALL the rivets. I figure if it is holding, just paint it as is. However, if you are going to do it, go for the 1/2" grade 8. It doesn't cost that much more than 5, so why not? Your entire truck will probably cost you $20-30 using grade 8. For grade 5 you could probably only save $10, but is $30 that much that it will break you? Just my opinion, Ted

 

Another place to look is www.okcnetworks.com/bronco/ . This guy has taken his truck down to the frame and documented everything. Lots of good tips for everyone. GREGM

 

not to rain on a parade but this sounds just a little extreme
if preventing the rust is the reason
after the sandblasting and cleaning of the parts
just seal the areas where water can get
keep the water out no rust

 

yes, i may not end up doing this. My frame is still pretty good, but the rear crossmember was toast. I'll just replace it. If I do see signs of rust forming between other crossmembers and where they bolt to the frame rails, i will disconnect the member in question. This wont be necessary up front, which has been .. uh, well oiled....

i do appreciate the wealth of different opinion and experience .. helped me to make what i feel is the best choice.. i wont be grinding down a lot of rivets...

thanks