Sorry I haven't been on as much today.. had 3 fires this afternoon..I did however manage to get the oil changed to the rotella 5w 40... left my truck at the station while I was on those calls..the coolant temperature showed to be 64 when I got back.. I seriously doubted it would fire off being that cold and not plugged in.. but to my surprise it fired right up. I let it set threand warm up a little before I left and headed home it didn't spit and sputter like it normally does.so I think we are making progress.I'll get a fluke meter tomorrow and check everything out over the next couple of days. And I'll probably go back to "normal" batteries as soon as I can. I know where my 2 old ones are at and may try to put them back on.. also I found out that the alt is only a110 amp. So I'm looking about replacing that again also... I. Not giving up yet and once again I appreciate all the good suggestions and information.. keep it coming.

 

OK gentlemen..getting new batteries in the next day or two. Spoke with a guy that said 110 amp alt is the biggest made for a single alt f350.. if I had two then I could go with a 135... I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks forthe ideas and support.. oh. Would an alt off a f450 or 550 interchange with the 110 I have? Just wondering.. I may have access to one...

 

My 2005 F350 has a 140 amp listed on the door sticker. I just went and looked at it and confirmed. That's what you want if you are buying a ford stock reman. It's an upgrade option on most all SDs with the diesel and lariat or above because of all the extra power uses. They can also source you bigger ones in a single, you want the chassis that will bolt in, there are commercial versions with higher output available, but for price you might want to go DC Alternator at 180 or 190. I am in Canada and the higher amp rating alternators are super expensive. I will probably wait until after Christmas and order a 190 from DC.

 

As Mike said .....

Part # for the OEM 140A alternator:
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 411pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=548 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 255pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 12088" width=340><COL style="WIDTH: 12pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 568" width=16><COL style="WIDTH: 144pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 6826" width=192><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.2pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 255pt; HEIGHT: 13.2pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=340>Alternator - 140A (F series)</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 12pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" width=16></TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 144pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 width=192>6C3Z-10346-BARM</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Please do NOT just go w/ the 110A.

Many of us have had really good luck w/ DCPower aftermarket units, but they are expensive and apparently DCPower has had issues with meeting orders (delayed shipments) due to availability of parts.

 

OK guys.. 2 brand new 875 CC amp batteries..looked on my f 550 and f 450 fire trucks and they both have 110 amp salts... alt light comes and goes some still not as much as it did before the new batteries.. the spitting and sputtering seems to be getting better. The light still puzzles me.. I don't leave anything on. My edge shows tone around 11.0-12.5 before it goes off. If I plug it in at night it doesn't seem like it stays on that long. Any ideas again..

 

X-2 here^^^^^^


Mark as Im shure you know there has been some complaints about these alts Due to HIGH Demand

But I have to give Rob Credit as they could very easily put a Cheap part in to get orders out But they Dont

Its Good to still see a Company that QUALITY is STILL JOB #1

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




To the Original Poster

Best thing is to call and ask whats in stock

Ed At FICM repair sells them cheaper than DC Power does

Make shure to calll and verify whats in stock if in a Time Crunch

 

Your alternator still needs to be bench tested or it will just ruin the new batteries. You need to replace it. All it takes is one bad diode, and its just not able to keep up with short runs and get that battery up to full charge. The price between a stock 110 amp and a 140, I would get a 140 amp alt. If you can go for a DC or equivalent. Also, keep charging the batteries overnight everyday cause you may take out the FICM with low batteries on a regular basis.

 

I am very appreciate your site,and your article is useful, thank for sharing us this information.-DEMI

 

Well said Mike.

 

Just to prove a point (ridiculous "discussion" from earlier posts in this thread) ...... the link below is from the current chart in the Ford Chemicals and Lubricant web site (page 3):

RECOMMENDED MOTORCRAFT SAE 15W40 CJ4
Above 20*F
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...f/oilchart.pdf

It matches the chart I posted earlier:
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - bismic's Album: Miscellaneous - Picture

Always good to have accurate information.

 

Crybaby much? LOL...

Josh

 

Can't take being wrong can you ..... You should be used to it by now.

As I said - "ridiculous discussions"

 

Inform me again how the alternator isn't commanded to charge during GP cycle?

Oh snap you were wrong on that one too.

Josh

 

Ok guys... just to follow up.. old alternator was bad.. finally went out on me the other night replaced it christmas eve morning.. works fine.. but i found out tonight that the #5 injector is probably shot.. started running real rough and threw a code of P0275... so looks like ill be replacing injectors now.. thanks for the help and info.. ill keep ya posted..

 

Thanks for the follow up (very timely - it was starting to get ridiculous again - lol).