2006 battery problems
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Check each cell on both batteries, with a hydrometer. It only takes on bad cell on one battery to cause a problem. You may well have to buy two warrantied new motorcrafts batteries. 750 CCAare actually a bit more resilient, more lead. Also, what is the voltage on the alternator power lead after startup what voltage does it go up to over the first 10-15 minutes? 5w40 is a good idea. In the mean time if you are starting leave a charger on the batteries. Sounds like a weak alternator, which then took o it a cell on a battery would be my speculation only. Also, I have not see where you have verified the 48 volts on the FICM, if it is failing you are doing harm to injectors if you keep running it so that's why guys are saying big dollars if you don't track this down. Good luck!
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From what I understand so far the "blue tops' were given to you. Try, after you have run the truck and have your 13.8-14.1 vdc condition, shut off truck, disconnect neg cables from both batteries and check batt voltage on each and record, leave neg cables disconnected. Recheck voltages after about an hour and compare to initial readings.
Both batteries should still be in a 13+ vdc range. If one or both are significantly lower, say in low 12's or less, replace those babies.
The altenator should be putting out 14+ vdc when running... makes me think something is significantly loading a 160 amp? altenator when you mentioned 13.8 vdc which could be a batt issue.
Good starting point to get this figured out.
Also, do you have a multimeter to check amps with?
Both batteries should still be in a 13+ vdc range. If one or both are significantly lower, say in low 12's or less, replace those babies.
The altenator should be putting out 14+ vdc when running... makes me think something is significantly loading a 160 amp? altenator when you mentioned 13.8 vdc which could be a batt issue.
Good starting point to get this figured out.
Also, do you have a multimeter to check amps with?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Yes, load tester if they are true closed cell. Do you have an autoparts place that you can take both batteries and alternator too open on Sunday? if not, Then I would do the voltage drop checks above while doing the oil change. I bet if you measure over a day at every hour you will see one battery drop off voltages faster then the other. In which case you are replacing two at once. I still think the battery light is not right, like above, perhaps it's a battery pulling all the time witha bad cell. Your alternator should push 14.4 to preferably 14.8 volts. One bad diode in the alternator or bad cell in battery and it can't charge them batteries back up to snuff. Then you have low volts running injectors and taking them out slowly. For those temps, you should not be experiencing these issues if everything is a working properly. Gotta tough it out, cause all this work at a shop is big dollars, so best to do yourself.....
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
If, after a cold start is achieved, and your system voltage is in the 11's vdc at that time, your sputtering condition could be caused by low system voltage until the altenator gets the batteries up enough for things to run fine.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Your blue tops are a deep cycle battery, for marine and RV use. I am quite sure, for this application, they are not a good fit, as they don't handle the fast draw of diesel starting and glow plugs and fast charge of an alternator. I have a decent understanding of how a deep cycle likes to be charged up, and I think this incompatibility means you should move the blue tops to a different application and replace with motorcraft group 27 750 CCA or even 850. The problem is that the alternator only charges flat out and then cycles off, it doesn't step down at the end and trickle the last 20 percent or so, as a result, your batteries are never fully charged properly and this is creasing its capacity over time. I could be wrong on this so hopefully a battery expert can chime in. Not trying to steer you the wrong way , but think this is a part of your issue.....
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
The one thing that has been missed is the cables.
You could have a bad cable. Here is the kicker a bad cable can look good.
You have to have the voltage drop of the cable tested. Sometimes there is some
corrosion under the insulation of the cable and it will create a higher resistance
point in a cable and when you try to start that lowers your usable voltage. So you
need to have the cables tested to make sure that they are in good shape and also
it's a good time to remove the ground cables and clean BOTH ends and the places
where they attach. The test you need is a voltage drop test under load.
The quick easy way to do this is by removing the ground from one battery
and then taking your voltmeter and on the 2 volt range put on lead on the
battery and one at the other end of the cable. Turn the headlights on for a load.
You will get some voltage reading but not very much report back how much.
The only cable that you won't be able to do this with will be the starter cable.
So you have to rig up a headlight to act as a load and remove the cable from the
stater and test it that way (off truck)
Here is a How To do link
Voltage Drop Testing: Testing Automotive Circuits
Here is a good explanation on YouTube. Fast forward to 8:50 in the video
He shows you how to do a voltage drop test.
Sean
You could have a bad cable. Here is the kicker a bad cable can look good.
You have to have the voltage drop of the cable tested. Sometimes there is some
corrosion under the insulation of the cable and it will create a higher resistance
point in a cable and when you try to start that lowers your usable voltage. So you
need to have the cables tested to make sure that they are in good shape and also
it's a good time to remove the ground cables and clean BOTH ends and the places
where they attach. The test you need is a voltage drop test under load.
The quick easy way to do this is by removing the ground from one battery
and then taking your voltmeter and on the 2 volt range put on lead on the
battery and one at the other end of the cable. Turn the headlights on for a load.
You will get some voltage reading but not very much report back how much.
The only cable that you won't be able to do this with will be the starter cable.
So you have to rig up a headlight to act as a load and remove the cable from the
stater and test it that way (off truck)
Here is a How To do link
Voltage Drop Testing: Testing Automotive Circuits
Here is a good explanation on YouTube. Fast forward to 8:50 in the video
He shows you how to do a voltage drop test.
Sean
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Being a volunteer FF, and extreme conditions your truck could be subjected to due to vibration and jolting around, you may want to consider a gell cell or AGM battery for longevity... and I agree that deep cycle batteries are not designed for general automotive use and would shorten expected batt life.
If you can get the blue tops load tested would be preferable, but voltage drop is a testing method you can perform at home.
If you can get the blue tops load tested would be preferable, but voltage drop is a testing method you can perform at home.
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12575540
Josh
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 574
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids,MI
get red or yellow tops if you desire optimus batterys, you need batterys that will give high amp draw quick, blue tops are for low amp draws over long periods of time. remember the alternator does not kick in (excite) right after start there is a delay if I remember correctly for the glow plugs to turn off
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 60
get red or yellow tops if you desire optimus batterys, you need batterys that will give high amp draw quick, blue tops are for low amp draws over long periods of time. remember the alternator does not kick in (excite) right after start there is a delay if I remember correctly for the glow plugs to turn off
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12574448
Josh
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Your issue sounds exactly like what I was dealing with a while back... Ended up being two bad injectors. But mikes suggestion on the blue tops being your problem makes sense to me, so I would start by replacing those like he suggests... Also definitely check your FICM voltages as soon as you can...