2006 battery problems
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2006 battery problems
OK guys.. I have a 2006 ford f 350.. here lately its been getting colder. I keep it plugged in , but if I don't plug it in when I try to start it the batteries go dead. Its got a new alternator and 2 new blue top optimus batteries.. they are 750 CC amps. The alt shows to be putting out 13-14 when the engine is running after the batteries get charged. I don't leave any of my electronics on at night when I plug it in. So my question is... what could be going wrong with it??? Do I need to go back to the 850 CC amps? That's what it had on it when I bought from south Texas. I had to put a engine block heater cable on it cause it gets colder in the panhandle...
Any help would be appreciated since we're supposed to get to 14-17 degrees this weekend...
Shawn
Any help would be appreciated since we're supposed to get to 14-17 degrees this weekend...
Shawn
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Not sure I understand entirely, but the block heater has nothing to do with charging the batteries.
If the charging system is new it's possible the starter is on it's way out if it's struggling to start.
Josh
If the charging system is new it's possible the starter is on it's way out if it's struggling to start.
Josh
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Sorry about the post. I'm doing a little traveling and 2 join the forum join the forum to see about help. I was or noare not strong enoug like th to 850 cold cranking amps from th like to 850 cold cranking amps from the factory. When I get the vehicle started vo voltage shows between 10 to 12 volts on my edge advantage monitor. Once the batteries are charged it shows between 13 to 14 volts. I'm wondering if I need to go back
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
so when you go to start it the Batterys are weak????
Or it takes a Ton of crank to start?????
What Voltage does it show before you turn the Key???
What Volts does FICM MP Show at Crank/Starter Engaugement???
Or it takes a Ton of crank to start?????
What Voltage does it show before you turn the Key???
What Volts does FICM MP Show at Crank/Starter Engaugement???
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Sorry about the post. I'm doing a little traveling and 2 join the forum join the forum to see about help. I was or noare not strong enoug like th to 850 cold cranking amps from th like to 850 cold cranking amps from the factory. When I get the vehicle started vo voltage shows between 10 to 12 volts on my edge advantage monitor. Once the batteries are charged it shows between 13 to 14 volts. I'm wondering if I need to go back
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/sTfun9Rzsuw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I wouldn't tend to think 750 (1500 total) versus 850 (1700 total) would make that much of a difference, especially with a heater plugged in.
Josh
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John.. that's what I was thinking... especially after putting a new battery last year.. I put the 750's cause they were free..lol
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OK another question when I start it I usually have to wait until it warms up to around 150 degrees or it spits and sputters. Someone told me that this was normal on the 60's from the factory to keep them from messing up the injectors... any truth to this once it warms up it runs fine
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OK another question when I start it I usually have to wait until it warms up to around 150 degrees or it spits and sputters. Someone told me that this was normal on the 60's from the factory to keep them from messing up the injectors... any truth to this once it warms up it runs fine
Depending on the temps, say above 30-45 I will start the engine and wait until the high idle kicks in and then take off. Above 45 I just wait until the GP cycle off.
Below 30 or so I will let the engine idle for more than a couple minutes, but the coolant is only like 80-90 degrees or so when I take off.
My video posted above is 5W40 Rotella and roughly 26-30 degrees outside with overnight temps in the low teens.
I do not plug in the block heater.
Josh
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I'm running 15-40... I have been putting rev x in about every other oil change to help clean the injectors and so forth... I may try the different wait...what does the glows plugs usually pull when warming up? Plus I start plugging mine in if it starts getting below 45 or so just because of the spitting and sputtering... I also put a trickle charger on the driver side battery to help with the dead batteries when starting... I'm a volunteer firefighter so I need it to start at a moments notice sometime..
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Buzz flash cycles injectors before start up and after shut down to keep em excersized. At those temps, you have something wrong. I would check your ficm voltages, before start cold, after cold start, after warmed up. The motor craft batteries it came with New were 750 CCA, so unless they don't test out, that's not it. Batteries need to be tested seperate and alternator needs to be bench tested, should push 14.4 to 14.8 volts after glow plugs off. My bet with those sputtering when cold is FICM or injectors.
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Buzz Flash is a FICM strategy released late 2006 to help cure injector stiction. It has that nickname due to the fact the injectors will "BUZZ" up to 30 seconds after EVERY engine shut-down.
Even Ford referred to it as the BUZZ flash:
http://www.flatratetech.com/downloads/diesel_2.pdf
People hated it, and it is sometimes annoying stopping somewhere and people ask what the heck is that noise. I personally like it, but it does have it's drawbacks along with it's strengths.
As noted in that PDF, the Buzz flash idles rough cold, and 15W40 is useless in the colder temps.
The strategy released right after the Buzz flash is known as the "FICM Killer".
The newest strategy flash (Version 9) is a cold weather wonder for starting. But also has lack-luster MPG.
I think you may have a starter going out along with trying to use 15W40 and injector stiction issues.
I would think you would have a pre-buzz flash for injector issues, but 15W40 should be fine in the cold temps.
Hard to say without a video or seeing this in person. Where are you at?
Josh
Even Ford referred to it as the BUZZ flash:
http://www.flatratetech.com/downloads/diesel_2.pdf
People hated it, and it is sometimes annoying stopping somewhere and people ask what the heck is that noise. I personally like it, but it does have it's drawbacks along with it's strengths.
As noted in that PDF, the Buzz flash idles rough cold, and 15W40 is useless in the colder temps.
The strategy released right after the Buzz flash is known as the "FICM Killer".
The newest strategy flash (Version 9) is a cold weather wonder for starting. But also has lack-luster MPG.
I think you may have a starter going out along with trying to use 15W40 and injector stiction issues.
I would think you would have a pre-buzz flash for injector issues, but 15W40 should be fine in the cold temps.
Hard to say without a video or seeing this in person. Where are you at?
Josh