Check the tech folder as voltage is 48 in the ficm. Anything below 46 is bad at any time, cold or warm.

 

Might want to check out Ford TSB 07-5-4

Josh

 

Anything below 45 volts is toast. 45-51 volts with 48 volts ideal.

Josh

 

Manufactor date is 01/06...

 

Uhmm... maybe I'm wrong about what the voltage was.. I remember it being in the normal range though...

 

Does it Buzz up to 30 seconds after every engine shutdown?

Josh

 

No sir... I can live with the spitting and sputtering for now.. I'm just worried at the battery issue...

 

Ok I have to ask did you only replace one battery?
They really should be done in pairs. This is do to the way they age.
If you have one new and one older the system will have a lower total
output and the batteries will not be carrying the load in a balanced
manner.
You need to remove the batteries and have then charged and then tested
both by electrical and hydrometer to see what you have.

Sean

 

Well...

You could dump your oil and fill with 5W40 and verify your FICM voltages now or spend $2500 + labor later to replace all 8 injectors since they are dying a slow death with what you're doing.

Also have the starter tested.

If you have fresh batteries and a running voltage of 14 volts those items should be fine.

You're still rather vague in what the engine is doing and did not address Benny in Post #5...

Is it cranking slow and then firing or cranking over 150+ rpm and just takes a while?

Running like crap until 150 degrees sounds the most like injector stiction, but also a FICM issue.

But a long cold crank is an HPOP/ FICM issue.

A slow crank is batteries, cables and starter.

Josh

 

Ford recommends 15W40 only down to 20 degrees. While not all people that use 15W40 experience stiction issues, it is more common. I would switch to 5W40 personally.

As far as the battery issue, do you have a parasitic load? Have you put an ammeter inline with the battery cables? I agree w/ Sean that you need to individually test those batteries (load test and hydrometer).

 

15W40 is 30+ degrees

http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/doc...ge%20Guide.pdf

6.0 Oil Recommendations:
Some trucks with the 6.0 may exhibit hard starting, rough running and lack of power in cold temperatures, particularly on a cold start. This may be due to the oil being to thick for the operating conditions. Ford is recommending to use the following oils for the listed operating temperature.


SAE 15W-40 is the preferred oil above 30 degrees, but it is acceptable for use down to 10 degrees, and is recommended for towing down to this temperature.
SAE 10W-30 is the preferred weight between -10 to 30 degrees.
SAE 5W-30 and 5W-40 is acceptable for use below 30 degrees, and 0W-30 is acceptable below zero.
(All temperatures are in Fahrenheit.)


Josh

 

The Ford reference from a training video includes a chart - I have copied it to my album. I think it is a better reference ........
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - bismic's Album: Miscellaneous - Picture

If you want to debate it I can give you a link to the video also.

 

It cranks fine.. I can hit he remote start and it fires right up after the glow plug delay.. if the batteries are good and charged which is most of the time.. seems like if I plug it in it starts right up unless I have to cycle the glow plugs twice... if I don't plug it in that's when I have the at try issues
... I have put a fluke meter on the alt which showed 13-14..same fluke meter on the batteries and they showed about the same... I've put lucus fuel additive in also about every 2 or 3 tanks...

 

This TSB probably supercedes your old owner's manual scan.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/je...sb05-16-06.pdf

Josh

 

As far as a parasitic load
. I turn 2 way radios off at night. It has a viper remote start with security on it but don't use the security part very often...