Well, it isn't an owners manual scan - that was a poor assumption on your part. As I said it is a Ford training video that came out (after the 6.4L was introduced and after the 2005 TSB w/ OLD 2005 chart), so you are not correct on that one.

DMV

Anyway, it doesn't need to be nitpicked .................

hvfd42 - you need to put an ammeter on the battery power supply wires.

 

LOL... you're citing a chart for demostration purposes in a video?

Josh

 

You seem to have an ego problem .............. lmao. Your first reference is a filter change customer PR pamphlet - now that does command significantly greater respect.

The video was made at a later date than your references - period. It is a Ford reference, regardless of the purpose. It specifically introduced the change in the OLD 5W40 reference (see your OLD TSB) that did not recommend 5W40 at the elevated temperatures. Did you even happen to notice that your TSB didn't recommend 5W40 above 30 degrees? The chart also came out in another video that Ford sends its dealerships - I do not have that link anymore (not an active link now) - but again, who cares - it is immaterial to any reasonable person.

 

You seem to have an issue with being proven wrong.

Check this PDF (October 2008) and also the TSB.

http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/doc...ge%20Guide.pdf

If Ford changed the 15W40 again to 20 why wouldn't they address that in another TSB?

And are you considering they use the same basic chart for the 6.4 demo as well? It's a basic reference and not to be used in what oil to use. Especially when he states to see the owner's manual.

Josh

 

Ford clearly changed their position after that TSB (which actually states that 15W40 is acceptable all the way to 10 degrees and not the 30 degrees of the OC pamphlet btw). In fact, I do not post links to it anymore because it is very misleading. Who knows why they did not issue a corrected TSB after they "approved" 5W40 for the extended temperature range. Maybe they did issue one and we missed it - who knows. Bottom line they did change it. Their data sheets on their lubricants definitely state a different 5W40 range than the TSB, so it isn't hard to accept the fact that the TSB is wrong. The funny thing is that I personally agree that acceptable range should be the higher number - just for being conservative.

Additionally - Ford has also changed the range on their 10W30 oil since that TSB. The TSB states it is good to -10*F and their data sheets state it is only good to 0*F.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 225pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=300 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 225pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 10666" width=300><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.2pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 225pt; HEIGHT: 13.2pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=300 align=left>http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/product.asp?product=SAE 10W-30 Super Duty Diesel Motor Oil&category=Motor Oil</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

This isn't the only topic with conflicting info - there are a lot more of them unfortunately - even in the WSMs.

 

One other thing.. if it doesn't start and thenatteries act like they're dead I can hook.up booster cables and let it set for a few minutes and it will start also.. it seems to me to be more of an electrical issue than oil or ficm problems... I don't know for sure since this is the first 6.0 I've had.bought itusedlast year in June. I had a 7.3 that never gave me any problems.....but I'm trusting you guys since y'all have more experience with them..
Its 32 degrees now in here with the high to get up to 35, I'll let ya know how things turn out when I go to start it. Its supposed to get to 14 to.right so I'd like to try to figure this out soon. Lol.. thanks for all the help.

 

I think you are correct on it probably being an electrical (or battery) issue, that is why the recommendations to look for any parasitic load (and do the load testing and chemical testing on the batteries). Aftermarket security systems are key candidates for possibly having an undesired electrical draw. All the oil talk was a silly "sidetrack" discussion, but regardless of the electrical/battery issue, there are better winter oil choices than the 15W40 (and it truly is possible for performance issues to develop when using it in weather that is too cold).

 

OK.. thanks.. like I said I very rarely use the security system of the viper unless I'm in a bigger city r something of that nature. I use the remote start all the time due to needing it to warm up before I get in it. Other than that I can't think of anything else that could be drawing off of it while the key is off...

 

I ran into a simulair problem last year around the same time. Checked the ficm and finally traced it to a bad battery replaced it with a motor craft 850 CC amp like what was on it ran fine until about a month or so ago.then I just replaced both batteries with 750 CC amp blue top optimus. Then after that I thought it might have been the alt so I replaced it...and it still does it. I've even put a trickle charger battery tender on one battery to try to help keep the batteries up.and it still does it

 

Once it starts and the spitting and sputtering stops it runs fine unless its its for a while and gets the engine cold ... then I go through it all over again.

 

It should not be spitting and sputtering period, cold or hot. You need to fine the root cause before it becomes big bucks.

 

It only does it during the colder months..

 

Should not be doing it if everything is up to snuff..

 

OK just went out and started it up.. started just fine. Volt meter on my edge monitor showed about 11.6-8... battery light is on but it will go off when I start driving it around... think I'll go get some of the 5w-40 oil and put in it since its going to get to 14 tonight and I have to work tomorrow and wot have anyway of plugging it in to keep it warm. Keep the ideas and suggestions coming please... would really like together this figured out soon before I'm stranded somewhere...lol

 

Battery light means the alternator isn't keeping up.

Josh