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So I followed droptop70ss-Dave on this, with a couple of differences, to suit my needs. I bought a gas tank like his. I had the year off by 1. He says '95, I bought a '96 (glad they are the same...LOL) GM fullsize van 22 gallon and sending unit. Also a separate fuel pump. GM 255 lph that will feed my 5.0 (this was called out as a pump for a 5.7L Z28 Camaro) the pressure and volume for the 5.7 vs the 5.0 Ford are close. In fact this pump will pump more volume than a stock 5.0 EFI pump. That's not a problem, the regulator will control that. I am using autometer Z series gauges in a billet aluminum cluster. I have a full set of gauges, but the fuel gauge is for older Ford sending units, so I bought one that matches the set and it is matched to the GM sending unit.
So Dave and some others have cut a hole in the frame to accommodate the side filler tube. I have an interference with my longer "89 Dodge Dakota leaf springs, so I turned the tank around. That puts the filler neck farther ahead and on the passenger side, which solves my leaf spring interference. I also raised the tank up into the frame, so I don't have to cut my frame. The filler neck now sits just above the frame and will exit up into the rear passenger fender. I will need to get the fill tube figured out, but I plan to use the original '49 fill tube through the rear of the fender, This is my plan (subject to change) of course picture are worth more than this agonizing typing. So enjoy some progress!
1996 Gm G10 Van 22 gallon not 33 gallon
Tucks up in there nicely, will cut the frame ends off when I need to.
I forgot to mention, I will be raising the bed floor only enough to clear the tank/sending unit. I even might set the floor up so I can raise it, on hinges or something like that. Just a possibility at this point.
Next is fuel line plumbing/electrical. And, and, and...
I am adding this from 2012 when I built my AOD transmission. It's been so long, I couldn't remember what I did and didn't do. So this will help me, and maybe someone else will learn from it.
Silverfox your AOD write ups are great!
I am in the process of rebuilding an AOD for my '49 Ford truck project.
I just wanted to say thank you for the awesome write up.
I have been trying to learn on the internet, enough to get by.
The more I read, the more questions i have.
you clear up alot for me.
I am installing a stock(rebuilt) 5.0 EFI from a '96 Explorer
AOD from a '91 Grand Marquis.
I have replaced the cast direct drum with a stamped unit. 6 frictions/new steels
reverse clutch assy was good...cleaned and reassembled.
Stamped forward clutch installed new frictions.
I bought most of my parts from WIT so far. Three different orders...ugh...newbie...
i bought the Baumann shift reprogrammer kit
edit oh yeah and the spiral ring upgrade too.
A roadrunner lock-up TC 2500 stall?
waiting on new OWC rollers or diodes or sprags, whatever the right term is.
i need/want to get the rubber-molded 2-3 piston for the servo.
and new bushings. (I was trying to avoid the bushings...sounds like a PITA.)But will order them later in the week(payday...ugh)
I will assume I will need the hi rev governor kit too.
I changed the 8 tooth OP shaft to the 7 tooth 4 hole(both were 4 hole) running 3.73 gears in an 8.8 Explorer disc brake limited slip unit.
I still have alot to learn, but seriously am enjoying this AOD build.
Please advise me if you have any comments. I am sure I will have questions as I go.Last edited by 49FordF321; 09-17-2012 at 08:50 PM.
This is a post from clickclickracing.com it is a forum wrapped around "The fastest AOD Mustangs in the World"
Lots of good transmission info, not only AOD's
I can't thank SILVERFOX enough for his generous sharing of knowledge. He is also a member here.
Hey Jeff,
I like your AOD plan. I also learned a lot from the Silverfox.
Our only regret was going with an upgraded more aggressive shift kit (racing clutches)....
It shifts really hard. I'd vote for the stock shifting set up. I think Silverfox was selling a solid shift
set up that got rid of that very sensitive cable... I'd vote for that too if your budget can afford it. We also have a
Kevlar Overdrive band ....nice. We've got 25K miles on our AOD at this point.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD from a 2001 Explorer 3.73 limited slip).
Hey Jeff,
I like your AOD plan. I also learned a lot from the Silverfox.
Our only regret was going with an upgraded more aggressive shift kit (racing clutches)....
It shifts really hard. I'd vote for the stock shifting set up. I think Silverfox was selling a solid shift
set up that got rid of that very sensitive cable... I'd vote for that too if your budget can afford it. We also have a
Kevlar Overdrive band ....nice. We've got 25K miles on our AOD at this point.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD from a 2001 Explorer 3.73 limited slip).
Hi Ben! That was 2012. It should have been worn out by now...LOL This AOD will be obsolete by the time I test it...LOL
Honestly I insist on my truck running and moving itself this year. I am getting the fuel system wrapped up. Pics to come on that in a few days. Also I am really going to document this EFI swap with pics and info. A lot of us have used it, but I haven't seen much detail on the daily grind of putting it together.
I put in a b&m shift kit in mine and it had 2 different settings street-strip and tow haul . It was very good at warning of the usage and severity of the street-strip option . I went tow-haul .
I put in a b&m shift kit in mine and it had 2 different settings street-strip and tow haul . It was very good at warning of the usage and severity of the street-strip option . I went tow-haul .
I too went with the mild shift. I don't want it to be jerky like that. I used standard friction discs, The mods that I did to my AOD were to eliminate the common lubrication issues that haunted the AOD. The shift kit, I can't remember now, what it did, but I know when I built it, I didn't build it for the strip. I will try to figure out what I did and post on that later. This is becoming more of a MEMORY thread than a build thread...LOL
I too went with the mild shift. I don't want it to be jerky like that. I used standard friction discs, The mods that I did to my AOD were to eliminate the common lubrication issues that haunted the AOD. The shift kit, I can't remember now, what it did, but I know when I built it, I didn't build it for the strip. I will try to figure out what I did and post on that later. This is becoming more of a MEMORY thread than a build thread...LOL
Jeff you aren't the only one, mine started in 2011 and is just now done and driving.
Mine had a C*%&@ in it already and a TH700R4, had the engine rebuilt and the transmission. I traded getting the trans done by doing some woodwork for a friend who has a hot rod shop. He put a higher rpm stall converter in it without asking or telling me and I hate it! It is like I am in a drag race just to get it to shift into 2nd. I'm going to take it to a transmission shop and get it changed to stock. It is a drag not knowing much about automatics....
Yes I too know nothing about automatics of all the years owning and doing garage-bodyshop ( I am comfortable rebuilding standards , engines ect. ) I told myself autos are one of the things I simply didn't need to know . This one I did just to say I had .
So I had steel brake lines done, several years ago, using the old school cheap bar clamp type of flaring tool. I was not happy with how the double flares turned out. So I bought an EASTWOOD PRO flaring tool and copper nickel alloy 25' roll of 3/16" brake line.
I had a big smile on my face when I made my first flare! I recommend this to anyone out there doing brake lines!
I was going to take it to an exhaust shop, but don't have a car trailer. I could borrow one, but I don't want to go thru the hassle. So I bought a universal package 2.5" aluminized dual setup and THRUSH welded mufflers. I started to put the passenger side together. It takes me a little head scratching, but it's coming together! I have a touch over $300 in this exhaust. I was quoted verbally $700-$900 and I about choked...They could do a much nicer looking job, but nope...not happenin'
I will get'er done myself.
Ball fitting for the collector, pipe from the kit, weld-in O2 sensor bung, and an empty box!
I had to cut weld and grind to get just the right fit.
O2 sensor bung welded in and the sensor screwed in.
Back away to check alignment, then took a nap on the creeper...LOL
I still have some chassis coating to do. I just brush it on. I THOUGHT I already finished it, but guess not...I am only using the bungee cords to temporarily hold it up. I will hang it properly with zipties...(kidding)
This is where I will need to buy a couple 45 degree connectors to get it where it needs to be. I want to step it out and run directly below the frame rail along the gas tank, then turn them out to exit near the inside edge of the rear fender. subject to slight change.
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