Build Thread: '49 F321
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
Then I started installing the injectors/fuel rail. The injectors are 19lb/hr standard Ford EV6 type..The older orange typical ones are referred to as EV1's. EV6's are the same length but skinnier, they atomize fuel better because there are four spray holes vs. one on the older ones.
So I used the 90's Foxbody Mustang fuel rail, the inlet/outlet ports point forward and allow room to install the connectors(spring lock type)
The fuel rail that came on the Explorer points to the rear and it is up against the firewall, leaving no room for the inlet connection.
So if anyone is thinking about this kind of EFI swap...This '96 explorer 5.0 is a great setup so far! But the fuel rail presents a fit issue. Oh yeah, I bought those Felpro Perma-dry valve cover gaskets...they were $30 bucks...but worth every penny because they are Ford Blue!
Next will be fuel lines...
So I used the 90's Foxbody Mustang fuel rail, the inlet/outlet ports point forward and allow room to install the connectors(spring lock type)
The fuel rail that came on the Explorer points to the rear and it is up against the firewall, leaving no room for the inlet connection.
So if anyone is thinking about this kind of EFI swap...This '96 explorer 5.0 is a great setup so far! But the fuel rail presents a fit issue. Oh yeah, I bought those Felpro Perma-dry valve cover gaskets...they were $30 bucks...but worth every penny because they are Ford Blue!
Next will be fuel lines...
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
Not to be nit picky but it kind of was a good idea, the "car style" ones anyway. The F or E series ones are junk. For the vast majority of engines swaps, the upper intake just can be flipped to the other side for clearance. With GM engines that come straight out the front they often have clearance issues with the radiator. Look at the GM 4.8/5.3/6.0 pickups, the 3" intake tube has 3" to make a 90 degree turn to the air box.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,717
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
Jeff,
That sounds like me. Bought a new booster, proportioning valve, and the rest that goes with it for a under the floor mount. Took it all apart, mounted the new brackets, and when I went to put the booster and master cylinder in I found out it hit my Panels gas tank. Decided I had room to move the tank back enough to clear. Took the tank out and found out I'll have to move the sending unit in order to move the tank back
BJ
That sounds like me. Bought a new booster, proportioning valve, and the rest that goes with it for a under the floor mount. Took it all apart, mounted the new brackets, and when I went to put the booster and master cylinder in I found out it hit my Panels gas tank. Decided I had room to move the tank back enough to clear. Took the tank out and found out I'll have to move the sending unit in order to move the tank back
BJ
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
You have the fuel rails mixed up. The Explorer is the one with the connections at the rear and the Mustang is the one currently installed.
As for the injectors, if you look at the nozzle you'll see why the newer ones are better. The EV6 has four holes compared to the EV1 which only has one.
As for the injectors, if you look at the nozzle you'll see why the newer ones are better. The EV6 has four holes compared to the EV1 which only has one.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
In the last picture you will notice my "HOMADE" (Hey Garry!) oil pump primer.
It is the "cam position sensor" basically a distributor without the upper half.
Take the electronic part off the top,(2 little bolts) drive the roll pin out of the dist drive gear and remove it, as well as the collar just under the aluminum body.
Pull the shaft out shave the top off with your favorite tool of demolition (mine is a die grinder) center punch and drill the center, drive a steel rod into the hole. Took me longer to type this than it did to make this.
My point is...progress has been made!
It is the "cam position sensor" basically a distributor without the upper half.
Take the electronic part off the top,(2 little bolts) drive the roll pin out of the dist drive gear and remove it, as well as the collar just under the aluminum body.
Pull the shaft out shave the top off with your favorite tool of demolition (mine is a die grinder)
center punch and drill the center, drive a steel rod into the hole. Took me longer to type this than it did to make this.My point is...progress has been made!
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
You have the fuel rails mixed up. The Explorer is the one with the connections at the rear and the Mustang is the one currently installed. Oh...NOW YOU TELL ME??? Where were you yesterday??? Thank you for the correction! I, at least, knew it was from a Ford! HAHA!!
As for the injectors, if you look at the nozzle you'll see why the newer ones are better. The EV6 has four holes compared to the EV1 which only has one.
Thank you for the correction! I, at least, knew it was from a Ford! HAHA!!As for the injectors, if you look at the nozzle you'll see why the newer ones are better. The EV6 has four holes compared to the EV1 which only has one.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
Jeff,
That sounds like me. Bought a new booster, proportioning valve, and the rest that goes with it for a under the floor mount. Took it all apart, mounted the new brackets, and when I went to put the booster and master cylinder in I found out it hit my Panels gas tank. Decided I had room to move the tank back enough to clear. Took the tank out and found out I'll have to move the sending unit in order to move the tank back
BJ
That sounds like me. Bought a new booster, proportioning valve, and the rest that goes with it for a under the floor mount. Took it all apart, mounted the new brackets, and when I went to put the booster and master cylinder in I found out it hit my Panels gas tank. Decided I had room to move the tank back enough to clear. Took the tank out and found out I'll have to move the sending unit in order to move the tank back
BJ
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
Not to be nit picky but it kind of was a good idea, the "car style" ones anyway. The F or E series ones are junk. For the vast majority of engines swaps, the upper intake just can be flipped to the other side for clearance. With GM engines that come straight out the front they often have clearance issues with the radiator. Look at the GM 4.8/5.3/6.0 pickups, the 3" intake tube has 3" to make a 90 degree turn to the air box.
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Post Fiend
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
I have been moving forward a little bit. Trying to get the engine and tranny stuff completed. External accessories, plumbing and such. Some paint still needed on some parts, but that will happen later.
So I got the fuel rail issue resolved in my last post. I found some fuel rail connectors from a '93 stang motor along with a cable bracket for the throttle body. I was gonna buy a new Throttle Valve cable for the AOD tranny and holy crap they are expensive! I have some '90's truck brackets and cables, so I cut the Mustang bracket, cut the truck bracket and made my own setup from the two. The truck cable is much easier to find than the Stang cable. I had to buy a $12 adapter for the cable end and it works perfect.
I bought 5/16" dia. X 25' roll of steel tubing that I plan to use for my main run of fuel line both feed and return.(subject to change) There are nylon fuel lines available but it's more expensive. The steel line will do the job, but bending it nicely is not my specialty. I can always change that out later if I don't like it.
So I got the fuel rail issue resolved in my last post. I found some fuel rail connectors from a '93 stang motor along with a cable bracket for the throttle body. I was gonna buy a new Throttle Valve cable for the AOD tranny and holy crap they are expensive! I have some '90's truck brackets and cables, so I cut the Mustang bracket, cut the truck bracket and made my own setup from the two. The truck cable is much easier to find than the Stang cable. I had to buy a $12 adapter for the cable end and it works perfect.
I bought 5/16" dia. X 25' roll of steel tubing that I plan to use for my main run of fuel line both feed and return.(subject to change) There are nylon fuel lines available but it's more expensive. The steel line will do the job, but bending it nicely is not my specialty. I can always change that out later if I don't like it.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
I need:
'86-93 Mustang throttle cable.
power steering pressure line. (locally made or AN hose/fittings)
make a weird looking fan shroud or go electric.
finish fuel lines and brake lines.
Oh I need to extend my brake pedal too.
'86-93 Mustang throttle cable.
power steering pressure line. (locally made or AN hose/fittings)
make a weird looking fan shroud or go electric.
finish fuel lines and brake lines.
Oh I need to extend my brake pedal too.