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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 12:20 AM
  #31  
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So one of the concerns I have is that my C6 does not have an over drive and i will not be able to cruse the interstate easy, so what would be nice is a 2 speed rear end. In my search to find said rear end i found a complete Dana 60 disc brake rear end out of a early 70 chrysler imperial with 3.23 gears for $150, i'm going to look at it on monday so . . .
 
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 03:07 PM
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UPDATE TIME ! ! ! ! ! !

So this is a big update, not only content wise but the information contained is a turning point.

So the thorn in my side from this truck is the mess the PO created by putting power steering, from a mustang i think, in it.


This hole is a calculated cut for the pit man arm to reach through. So now i start cutting and grinding to clean up the frame, and what do i find . . .


Yes that is a crack, it's just to the left of the hole in the previous pic. So my first question is, can i just cut out the crack and weld it up?

And then with this new development I'm going to box in at least the front of the frame, so my next question is how do box the frame and still keep the Master cylinder in the stock location?

Well, that's all for now.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:40 PM
  #33  
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Well i finally did it, we'll see what happens.














Tomorrow I finish the fitting and tack it up
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #34  
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Looks good! Nice work.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #35  
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Scary to see what some people will do to a frame and still drive it on the highway with the rest of us around. Nice job cleaning it up.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 03:08 PM
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Here's the almost finished frame, need to finish the weld on the underside of the top rail then grind it down





 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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It's done


Inside of the frame


Outside of frame
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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Grinding the frame when it's 40deg outside is no fun, but the reward of a tall frosty at the end is worth it
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 05:27 PM
  #39  
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Their is more than one way to skin a cat, it even differs by geographical location.

So after reading countless ways on countless pages and forums on ways to sand and paint a frame i think i have a process that might could work. I have burnt several flap disc's, picked wire from my legs and arms from wire wheels, and salvaged enough blast media from my paints to do my front axle. I'm finally on the home stretch for finishing my frame.

Tomorrow's check list is: wash & dry, wash & dry, and apply rust inhibitor.

Oh . . . . so my paint process is, I think . . . .

1. Rustoleum rust reformer
2. Rustoleum Primer
3. Paint (?)
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:51 PM
  #40  
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What? No Bondo on the frame??
BTT^^^
 
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 02:43 PM
  #41  
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UPDATE ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !




 
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #42  
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300 I6 install info


Front Cross member:
Trans-Dapt Performance Engine Swap Motor Mounts 4037 - SummitRacing.com
with using 70's style mounts

Ignition
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-shopping.html

Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index




other
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-the-efi.html
 
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 08:04 PM
  #43  
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so back at it . . . .

Got the holes cut out for the steering box to mount










just need to smooth it out and test fit the steering box
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 11:33 AM
  #44  
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I hate to say this, but IMHO that frame should never see the highway again. Please quit now and find another frame, those are not welds, they are gobbed on filler wire. Even with good welds that repair is sure to fail, It's no where near properly or safely done. Sorry.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 11:46 AM
  #45  
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I have to agree. IF you could be assured that you had solid full-penetration welds all around the patch, with no discontinuities, and you were able to stress relieve the welded metal, you "might" be OK. That is a very highly stressed area of the frame, known for cracking around the steering box holes. With the steering box there, you can't fish-plate or box the frame.
 
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