First let me say that there are no new ideas in my system. I have copied, modified and gleaned ideas from everyone else (Tom S, timc63 and many others) before me who has done a Electric pump fuel system. Their were two criteria that my system had to meet when I built it. First is it needed to be completely biodiesel compatible since I home brew my own. The second that I keep in mind with nearly all of my mods are "on the road repair ability". I like to use commonly available or replaceable parts. So while not all of my parts can be replace at any parts store on the road there will likely be substitutes that will work for short periods of time.

The parts for my system almost all came from Napa with the exception of a few which I will give you the sources as I talk about them.

Here is a picture of the before<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZTt_fovZgieIXHAT2qqsqYyyp2CtKwkdP9eueHXKNYo?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JWqFrPs4OVI/Tx9ldefT4RI/AAAAAAAAAC4/sN-7uJ-sHVE/s640/2012-01-19_18-36-14_882.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/114640830384103750869/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJqpy-L2j7jriwE&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>

PUMP/FILTER

The heart of the system is a 99-03 PSD Fuel pump. I bought a complete used pump which provided me with the wiring harness and pump bracket to house the new Napa fuel pump (part#P74221).
Filtration is provided by a 30 micron water separator placed pre pump (part#3367) then a post pump filter rated at 2 microns (part#3528). Both filters match the Part#4770 filter base. These filters were based on availability and cost. They are both affordable filters my local Napa had in store. By choosing in stock filters, it assured me they are common filters that I can get on the road easily if the need arises.
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The whole pump/filter assembly is made of scrap steel I had laying around. I used bolts welded on as studs to attach to the truck frame just behind the transfer case. I also used bolts welded on, to bolt the filter heads on as well. Then using pipe fittings (3220x8x6 bushings, and 2 3/8th street 90s), barb fittings (#90543) and the correct quick connect fittings (Part #7305625, Also used one I had around off a stock line, no part number for that one)at the pump they are all plumbed together. <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Z0XO6prWiPIY5hwh5TPGi4yyp2CtKwkdP9eueHXKNYo?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1xkJuX8c5x8/TyApWTR2xqI/AAAAAAAAAE4/PSQyeFMKgQE/s400/2012-01-21_08-38-23_847.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/114640830384103750869/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJqpy-L2j7jriwE&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>

The suction side of the assembly is hooked to the rubber hose coming off the tank selector valve using a double ended hose barb from the hardware store. I hooked into this line right where it goes from rubber to the factory steel line. Then to plumb back into the factory steel line at the output side of the assembly I cut the steel line near the transfer case where I used a 5/16 compression to 1/8 pipe fitting and a 3/8 hose barb to 1/8 pipe fitting to hook it all together (part #66x5 & 05706B102).

All the rubber hose I used is Gates Barricade hose which is rated for pretty much any DOT legal fuel including 100% biodiesel. All hose barb connection under the truck and in the valley are made with high pressure, none cutting clamps. Double clamps are used in connectors where good barb fittings were not used. The hose part number the 3/8 hose is a 15 foot package (I used 5 or 6 feet) is H358 and the 5/16 is a 2' package part # H344. The clamps are 7051227 for 3/8 and the 5/16 are 7051226

ENGINE PLUMBING AND REGULATOR

The first step was to remove the original fuel system. I started by removing my intercooler piping and turbo inlet piping. Then I removed the fuel bowl and fuel pump. I used a mini sawzall to cut out the stock steel fuel lines. Once the lines are out you need to get the rear fitting out of the back of the heads. The stock fitting at the left rear of the engine (drivers side) is too long to be spun out of the head with the up-pipes still on the engine. So some creative use of a die grinder with a cut off wheel is used to cut the fitting short enough to thread out. The passenger side fitting I used a 9/16 deep well socket and 1/4 inch ratchet to thread both the fitting and the line nut off all at once. Once all the stock junk was removed there is a hole that needs to be plugged. For this I used a 7/8 inch freeze plug (part #3813029). Now its time to put it all back together!
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In the engine bay I had a few factors to consider with hose material. First was the biodiesel I already mentioned, the other two were heat and vibration. Hard line will do great with the heat but not always the vibration. Hose does great with vibration but not heat. So I choose to use Earls Speed Flex hose assemblies. These are pre made AN 4 hoses, Teflon liners and stainless steel braid. I would have like to stay with 3/8th on the supply side but 1/4 is sufficient. The Earls hoses are good to 2000 psi BUT they are NOT DOT approved so use at your own risk. I bought these hoses and the Earls y block from The Chassis Shop. I am sure these items are available at Jegs or other hot rod shops but the Chassis Shop is local to me so I got them there.

Two of the hoses are 16 inch for the supply side to the back of the head. The part# is 64191916. Then shorter hose are used to plumb the front of the head to the regulator. The part number is 64191912. The Earls Y Block is part #100179
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Fuel supply comes in on the stock 3/8th fuel line into the engine valley. Then I used a short piece of hose double clamped on the line to a 3/8th hose barb (#90543) with a Street 45 degree (#3350x6 with a bushing #3220x8x6) to connect to the Earls y block bolted a cross piece that bolts where the old nasty fuel bowl used to reside. Then on the other end of the y block I used fittings to go to AN 4 (Part #C5205X4X4) then using the 16" hoses out to the back on the heads. Sorry not a good picture of this but here is this
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Once the fittings are out of the heads you have a 1/8 pipe thread. At the drivers side rear port I threaded in a 1/8 pipe to -4 straight fitting (#C5205X4 & C5506X4). Then I used a 90 degree -4 fitting with a swivel on one end. This was the only way to get the hose out with a 90 cause that fitting is less than an 1/8 inch away from the up pipe. Once the fittings were installed I ran the Earls hose down under the turbo and crossed to the right side port of the y block to help take up some slack in the hose.<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jADQ8-EbjyllHUQCwKFP1oyyp2CtKwkdP9eueHXKNYo?feat=embedwe bsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lbHB1eaLVHo/TyAUzT3ZySI/AAAAAAAAADg/ERYcgR8qKiM/s400/2012-01-19_19-46-43_218.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/114640830384103750869/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJqpy-L2j7jriwE&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>

The passenger side rear fitting was a bit of a plumbers delight too. Its recessed about 2 inches below the visible surface of the head so I choose to use a 1/8 pipe nipple to a female 1/8 pipe to male -4 fitting with another -4 90 degree swivel fitting (. Then attached the other 16" hose and routed it to the left port of the y block. Once you have the lines routed make sure they are not rubbing anything as SS braid is like knife!
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Now on up to the front of the motor to deal with the return side of things. The front of the heads on an OBS motor already have -4 fittings so I left them both in place. The passenger side I was able to get the old line off and the new line back on without removing anything. The driverside required unbolting the a/c compressor and pushing it aside then unbolting the accessory bracket and pulling it away from the motor. Then I could hook both 12 inch earls lines to each fitting. The lines then reach up to the regulator. The regulator I used is a Aeromotive 13109. I bought mine used with a gauge so I don't have a source for you but you can get them anywhere for $150 or so. Since the regulator has -6 ports you will need -6 to -4 adapters (part # C5315X4X6) for the inlet ports from the front of each head. To make the turn I also used 2 more 90 degree swivel fitting (part # C5506X4). For the outlet of the regulator is used one of the -6 to -6 fittings that came with my regulator. Then I used something a little redneck to make a 90 degree. I took a hydraulic crimp fitting (part #04U666) and cut the barrel off that is normally crimped around hose. This left a long 90 degree hose barb to clamp (double clamped) then the hose goes around to the stock steel return line that is cut off shorter than stock. This completes the plumbing part of the fuel system.
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Electrical

Now this is where I followed Tom S to a T. The stock under hood fuse box has a one empty cavity for a relay and 3 empty maxi fuse slots. To fill these slots the easiest way to outfit the fuse box is a get a box out of a junk yard car or truck of the same year and take it apart to get the terminals. Before you can get the box up so you can work on it you need to remove the cable that feeds battery power. It is a the single large yellow cable on the drivers side of the box. Pull it off the stud and get ready to get the box to where you can work on it. To start you need to pull the box up out the bracket. There are plastic tabs that lock it in. You just pry those out a little and pull up on the box. Then pop the back cover off the box. Start with the junkyard box so you can figure out how NOT to break it to get the terminals out.

The metal strip that the cable attaches to is a buss bar that carries battery power to the whole box. There is a plastic strip that covers it and it is attached with two small phillips screws. Remove those screws and pull the plastic strip out. Once that is out you need to carefully pry the buss bar out. Is has tabs that go up into the terminals like spade terminals. I took enough pats from the box to fill the relay cavity and all three fuse cavities for future use.
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I will post more details on the wiring in a day or two when I have better info so I can explain it well.


More to come later!

 

Looking forward to it! Subscribing

 

cant wait too see pics!

 

Parts list is the biggest thing that how-to's don't post.

Pictures are great, but not knowing what fittings to get is probably the nightmare of actually doing it.

 

I agree with that 110%. The front cover repair that I'm going to do, the parts were listed by part numbers and how-to's. Great!!

 

I agree. I spent more time trying to figure out what fittings I needed then anything else. It's gets frustrating every time you have to drive back into town to get the right size.

 

Tomorrow is today TJ, were waitin!!!

 

Sorry Guys! not gonna get it up today. Soon! Sorry keep you waiting! Here are two overall pictures of the filter/pump set up and a pic of the engine setup
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/q8WKx94O-ibq_bxkp155NIyyp2CtKwkdP9eueHXKNYo?feat=embedwebsi te"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q95beaf7cLk/Txy4PZ5jQyI/AAAAAAAAACg/xGkd-BSJwZM/s800/2012-01-21_11-42-37_151.jpg" height="450" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/114640830384103750869/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJqpy-L2j7jriwE&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1VLE3dRs6ygMhOGK6To2xYyyp2CtKwkdP9eueHXKNYo?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X4tSuMqqJEU/Txy32UgqRXI/AAAAAAAAACY/khaX6dYDdfs/s800/2012-01-21_19-42-07_129.jpg" height="450" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/114640830384103750869/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJqpy-L2j7jriwE&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>

 

Looks awesome. One thing which I need to redo on mine is the rubber hose I have like yours running to the fuel block. It is starting to weep around the end of the line coming up. I'm going to get a compression fitting and put a bard on it to seal better. No problem on the splitter end with the barb.

 

Nice braided lines.
Napa fleet for the win with the SD pump.

 

All the parts are from napa with exception of a few hardware store parts and the braided line came from the chassis shop. My system is 100% biodiesel compatible.

 

hey ty. got any more info or pics ready yet?
mitch

 

I should have time tonight to get it all up

 

I am working on editing my first post. I won't get it all done tonight as I left my papers at work with parts numbers But I can get you many of the details tonight. All updates will be done in post 1

 

Excited for it.