The TJBEGGS E fuel thread! ALMOST COMPELTE!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
It is, but it requires a little patience LOL! I took a 12 point 9/16" box end wrench and cut a section out of the box end that the 5/16" line would fit through. The 12 point let you get smaller bits on the nut since travel is limited in there. You can also remove the down pipe to make it easier to get to.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 307
Likes: 2
From: OR
It is, but it requires a little patience LOL! I took a 12 point 9/16" box end wrench and cut a section out of the box end that the 5/16" line would fit through. The 12 point let you get smaller bits on the nut since travel is limited in there. You can also remove the down pipe to make it easier to get to.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,556
Likes: 0
From: Crapy southern New Jersey
Do u know what the line size is coming up to the tank from the engine is? I've been having a debate with a friend about needing to upgrade that or not. I want to run 5/16 lines to the heads. Do you think this mod as is will support 238/100 or 250/100?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
The supply line coming from the selector valve to the engine is 5/16" until it gets to the last quick connect fittings at the front of the engine, then it goes to 3/8". The return line is 5/16" all the way from the FPR to the selector valve.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
....and the fuel gets pushed through a tiny little 1/8" in the fitting that those 1/4" lines hook to! LOL!!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 774
Likes: 25
From: Reno, Nevada
Bill,
Did you use those Vibra-Lok fittings at the back of the heads like the originals come with? Or a regular compression fitting? I've been wondering if those Vibra-Lok things are more trouble than they're worth.
I know your post is a couple years old, but we have a saying here in Nevada "Never let an old mine go to waste" and the same applies to a good thread.
Did you use those Vibra-Lok fittings at the back of the heads like the originals come with? Or a regular compression fitting? I've been wondering if those Vibra-Lok things are more trouble than they're worth.
I know your post is a couple years old, but we have a saying here in Nevada "Never let an old mine go to waste" and the same applies to a good thread.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 19
I was in the industrial supply house and the have some vibralock fittings in back I hope to spend some time in there tomorrow and get this going. So far the big challenge is the vlv60 seals that are gone out of the stock lines. Not easy to get here.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 19
Just to finish off where I got to.
I ended up using a vacuum pump to pull fuel through the first filter, then the pump. Then it took a few minutes of the pump running to get the pressure set to 60psi.
I am using a napa pump (E2236). It became quieter with fuel but not great.
I confirmed my supply line choice with driven diesels directions.
I ended up using a vacuum pump to pull fuel through the first filter, then the pump. Then it took a few minutes of the pump running to get the pressure set to 60psi.
I am using a napa pump (E2236). It became quieter with fuel but not great.
I confirmed my supply line choice with driven diesels directions.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
My e-fuel system (which uses a SD pump) won't pull fuel through the prefilter if it goes dry. These pumps aren't really made to "pull" fuel so much as they are to "push" it. If that prefilter goes dry, then the pump is just sucking air and won't pull hard enough to refill the filter and prime the system. I've had to crack the prefilter loose and put a little air pressure in the tank to push the fuel up to the filter housing before. Once the pump is primed, then it's generally good to go. Sounds like that's the issue you were having as well.