Its coming! I have had the invoice sitting on my desk since I did the job!

 

I went from start to finish in this thread and got all the parts you listed Tim. My old system is out, and the new will be in soon. Aren't all the parts listed, just scattered throughout the thread? I bought the strictly diesel wiring kit for wiring. Isn't that about all you had left to finish in the thread was the wiring?

 

Yep wiring is about all I have to finish. Most of the part numbers are in the list. I have most of the parts in an Invoice to myself so I will scan that put it up. I also have a few updates and tips that I will address with problems I have had.

 

So I checked over this thread to see where I needed to start from. I need to snap some more pictures to make it clear for what I did with the fuse box.

BUT what I can do tonight is tell you a few changes I have made and will make. First off is if you plan to use biodiesel at all use the gas rated thread tape. Its yellow and a lot thicker. I had a number of seaping leaks at my pipe fittings.

The other issue I have had was a few of the rubber lines blowing off on the pressure side even though they were double clamped. One was my fault since I forgot I had a 5/16 fitting on a 3/8 hose. I used it in a pinch and forgot about it. The second I think I had a clamp loosen up but months later. I will be switch all rubber hose on the pressure side to steel line. A hose blowing off while rolling down the highway makes on heck of a mess!!

I will have the list of parts and instructions on the wiring/fuse box tomorrow night.

 

That's not too bad for changes. I was a little concerned about the "problems" you said you had. Couple leak possibilities to take care of isn't too serious.

Thanks Tim.

 

I just want to say: WELCOME! Tim.

 

Tj u know tomorrow has came and went! So maybe tomorrow?

 

You guys keep me honest. I took the pictures and I am working on the post- It will be up tomorrow afternoon!

 

My only suggest would be to go gas rated tape regardless of if you are gonna run bio or not. Even better would be gasolia gas line sealant paste.

 

Like we haven't heard that before...lol.

Thanks again Tim

 

Ok so lets finish this up.

Here is my parts list aside from the regulator, braided lines and y block.
<table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

If you can’t read that here is a link to my Picasa pic.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

To do the electrical side of this project you will need a fuse box from another Ford of the same vintage. Other than that you will need various wire and connection.

NOTE: This is not the best way to do this project. This way will run the fuel pump anytime the key is on. At the very least I will add an inertia switch for crash safety.

You fuse box will look something like this before you start.
<table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

You will notice there are 3 blank fuse slots and 1 relay slot. I used the relay slot and one of the center fuse slots.

To start, we need to remove parts from the donor fuse panel. Remove all the fuses and relays if it has any. Start on the top side and remove the red plastic pieces from the top side. This will expose small locking tabs that hold the connectors in the plastic box.
<table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

The red inserts pry out once you undo the small locks that hold them in.
<table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

Once you have the red inserts out flip the box over and remove the nut that holds the battery cable connection on. There will be a small screw that goes in from the bottom through the metal bus bar.
<table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

Remove the screw (might be two) I can’t remember. Then the bus bar will pry out of the box to be set aside. Once you have the bar out it will look like this.
<table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

Once you get this far now you can start to remove the connectors you need to put into your box. You will need one of the maxi fuse connectors that attach to the bus bar. It looks like this.
<table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

You will also need a wired connector for the maxi fuse and all 4 relay connectors with wiring attached. Get as much wire attached as possible, somewhere between 6 and 12 inches would be good. Sorry no pictures of those, but if you can’t figure it out your already over your head with this project!

Once you have those parts out of the donor box you need to dismantle the fuse box in you truck the same way. Install the bus bar connector in the correct slot with a wired connector on the other side. This will give you a battery powered fuse to power your relay that will engage with the key on. Install the relay wired connectors in the empty cavity in your trucks fuse box. To wire the relay you will need to connect your new fuse to pin 30 of the relay. Look at the relay the pins will be labeled. Pin 87 will be the output to your fuel pump. The control side of the relay will be pins 85 and 86. Pin 86 is the ground wire. I just went out the nearest screw on the inner fender. Pin 85 will need to be hooked up a key on power source or you can hook it up to a manual switch is you want to. For the I used one of the smaller fuses un the fuse panel that is key on power. I don’t recall which one but with a test light you can figure it out. Once you have it all wired up reinstall the bus bar.

One thing I did while I was into the fuse panel is filled the rest of the empty slots with parts so I could use them later. Also don’t put the fuse panel completely back together until you know the pump works and you did everything correctly. Not much fun to pull it back apart.
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Sweet, thanks Tim!

 

Good Job man. Gonna start rounding up parts so I can get it all together in janurary.

 

Awesome Tim! BOUT TIME! lol
JK
Tried reppin but i cant.

Probably cuz i repped you when you STARTED this thread. lol.

That was your plan all along... separate the time it took to do this 'write up' so you get rep'd twice! lol

 

What you don't know is that the reason it took so long to finish this is that I have been writing a new suspense novel......