The TJBEGGS E fuel thread! ALMOST COMPELTE!
#31
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
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Looks great Tim. I really like the filter set up and your pics and explanation is top notch.
Here's a couple of observations from my time on the super duty side.
Might be a good idea to go to a 100 psi gauge.
Many people eliminate the "quick" connect fittings on the fuel pump and just use a hose clamp and 3/8" fuel line to attach to the fuel pump.
Might also be a good idea to put some wireloom over those braided lines. Especially the one close to the Stancor.
Here's a couple of observations from my time on the super duty side.
Might be a good idea to go to a 100 psi gauge.
Many people eliminate the "quick" connect fittings on the fuel pump and just use a hose clamp and 3/8" fuel line to attach to the fuel pump.
Might also be a good idea to put some wireloom over those braided lines. Especially the one close to the Stancor.
The gauge already died so its been replaced my a shrader valve. It will soon be replaced with a electric sensor to hook to my Aeroforce gauge.
I know about the quick connect issue with possible sucking air. Probably at a later date I will be adding an electric lift pump to help with that issue. I know Tom S did it that way but I don't like Modifying the pump in way that I can't grab one off the shelf of any parts store.
Also good idea on the wire loom. I thought about it but I just could not bring my self to cover those purdy lines yet. Plus I didn't have any loom on hand.
#33
No weird modifications required. A 3/8" fuel hose will slip on the end of the fuel pump where the quick connect fitting goes and then just use an old fashioned hose clamp to hold it in place. It's actually easier to change on the side of the road that way than fighting the quick connects. The barb for the quick connect acts as a great retention ring you can place the hose clamp in front of or on.
#34
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
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No weird modifications required. A 3/8" fuel hose will slip on the end of the fuel pump where the quick connect fitting goes and then just use an old fashioned hose clamp to hold it in place. It's actually easier to change on the side of the road that way than fighting the quick connects. The barb for the quick connect acts as a great retention ring you can place the hose clamp in front of or on.
#35
#37
Looking to do this mod and was wondering if I can power the fuel pump off the bowl heater wires? Also where is the oil pressure switch on the factory setup that needs to be moved to above the oil filter.? And how do I wire that into the fuel pump. I can do mechanical but not good at electrical work. Thanks
#38
Don't know exactly how Tim wired his up. I too wondered if the pump could be run off the fuel filter heater wire. Don't exactly know how much current the pumps draw and if only a few amps then it probably would work.
If doing it would probably use a relay and wire it as such ...
Once again, maybe not into the fuel filter heater wire, just depends on pump current draw.
If doing it would probably use a relay and wire it as such ...
Once again, maybe not into the fuel filter heater wire, just depends on pump current draw.
#39
Don't know exactly how Tim wired his up. I too wondered if the pump could be run off the fuel filter heater wire. Don't exactly know how much current the pumps draw and if only a few amps then it probably would work.
If doing it would probably use a relay and wire it as such ...
Once again, maybe not into the fuel filter heater wire, just depends on pump current draw.
If doing it would probably use a relay and wire it as such ...
Once again, maybe not into the fuel filter heater wire, just depends on pump current draw.
#40
Basically the fork looking thing is your ground. The oil PSI switch is inline on your ground to the relay. If it does not see oil pressure then the circuit will not complete and will not let the relay operate since no ground is present at it.
The other side on the left is where your hot wire from the fuel heater will go. One is the trigger wire to energize the relay and the other is power to supply the fuel pump. Bottom right is energized when all the other portions on the relay are complete.
The other side on the left is where your hot wire from the fuel heater will go. One is the trigger wire to energize the relay and the other is power to supply the fuel pump. Bottom right is energized when all the other portions on the relay are complete.
#41
Sorry so the oil pressure switch is not the one for the gauges in the truck? Its an add on just to power the fuel pump? Sorry I don't understand wiring so I need to understand it so I can get the right parts. I amd going to do everything except the wiring, Someone else is doing that part.
#43
#45
Couldn't you use the wire to the fuel heater to fire the coil of the power relay for the pump? Also, wouldn't that design extend cranking time since you would have to crank until you have oil pressure before it would activate the fuel pump? I would think this would be a little inconvenient unless I am missing something.