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6.9l customization

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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #121  
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guess the manifold and stuff with have to wait, i need to finish up the rear end and get it drivable so i can pull the cab off to get to stuff.
and i guess that i will end up putting a 2 or 3 inch body lift on it to help clear stuff.
we will see, i will be happy as long as i am making progress.

i think i am going to take the turbine housing to work and have the guys mill it out, it has some steps on the exhaust side that i do not like at all...
guess i should have waited and got a t4 housing for it.


i wonder if the power seats out of my 97 150 will fit in this cab?
then again a bucketed out bench seat would be awesome.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:05 PM
  #122  
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Is there a T4 that you could find for cheap? Maybe see what you can find. Also with the seats, everything can fit with a lil work. Lol
 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 07:05 PM
  #123  
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idk, i think i am going to try this one out first... maybe buy a t4 divided down the road

looking at intercoolers
and looking really hard at a 22x8x3.5
cxracing.com: Front Mount Intercooler 28"x8"x3.5", 3.5" Core: 22x8x3.5, 2.5" Inlet & Outlet, Talon Eclipse Jetta
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #124  
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maybe i should paint it green and through a 86 front end on it...
F250 6.9 IDI dyno - YouTube

nice looking truck
 
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 12:18 AM
  #125  
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Lol seems legit... Truck does look good tho
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 07:17 PM
  #126  
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how about intake manifolds cast of copper? might just cast a set after i get the pattern made for the aluminum ones just for fun.

well, the cab is ready for lift off. need to make a engine stand. then i guess i will be shipping the drive line off to get all fixed up and cleaned.

front arb air locker on the way.

what is the best model of t case for these trucks? pop's was saying that there is a gear driven one.

i need to kick this project into over drive...
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #127  
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I would be worried copper corroding if it was used. You gotta remember that your engine sucks in moisture from the air and over time I think it would corrode. I wouldn't want that stuff sucked into my engine. Also I think the T case your dad is talking about is either a NP 205 or NP208. I don't remember which one it is though. I do know that is the one I plan to put on my truck cus I have both of um burried in my storage unit.
 
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Old May 16, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #128  
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i wouldn't think that it would corrode that much.
maybe brass then, i am just kinda toying with the idea, weather it happens or not.

the circuit bored on the back of the gauge cluster is a voltage regulator?
i am wanting to get rid of the stock gauges for fuel, temp, oil, and voltage and replace them with some drop-in gauges.
i don't want to mess up the tach or the check engine/ engine lights.

stupid question, but that is a d60 (king pin axle) up front right? any idea on the spline count?
 
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Old May 16, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #129  
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Depends on the type of copper used. I used a piece of high quality stuff to adapt the banks turbo to the ats intake snail. Turned brown barely after a year and a half of use inoregon weather. Having the cdr oil up the intake might help too lol
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 07:10 PM
  #130  
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engine stand 250 for steel and we will see how much for casters.


i am kinda tossing around the thought of rebuilding the engine.

cleaning up the ports is definitely on my todo list, there are nice little globs of metal in them.

need to find some ss exhaust tubing and i will start my exhaust manifolds.

probably be ordering stuff to do the diverter valve soon.
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 07:07 PM
  #131  
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what do you guys use of an engine stand?

i am building one for about $400
3x3x1/4 tubing with a 3x3 base and about 32 inches tall.
four 700lbs casters
and a 4wd hub out of a jeep for bearings to turn it over. (i hope i don't over load it, seriously.)
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 10:29 PM
  #132  
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Gotta do a full build! Put some fuel and boost into the sucker!
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 10:43 PM
  #133  
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This: Ranger Products/1 Ton folding engine stand (RANRES1TF) | | AutoZone.com

Fully loaded doesn't sag

 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #134  
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injector caps are half way done lol
there is some chatter in them, but she will buff right out
used bore sizes .607 and .638 plus or minus .001
fits good and snug on the injector

think a press fit would work for the barbs?
i have tossed that around along with silver solder and threading them in.

o and i am upgrading to a v12 lol

 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 07:58 PM
  #135  
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nice work on the caps.
 
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