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And that is why it is great how the Super Duty lineup hasn't really changed all that much since it was introduced in the 1999 model year. Parts cross-compatibility.
And that is why it is great how the Super Duty lineup hasn't really changed all that much since it was introduced in the 1999 model year. Parts cross-compatibility.
Same as its always been. Like 1980-1997. It cost to much to change everything every few years so they just change the front end and the interior a little every couple years to keep sales up.
I have a 1999 super duty, I have been under it for the past few weeks. It was born and bred in new york all its life (came from long island) now lives in the mountains of the hudson valley with me. I have been cleaning it's underside, all that road grime and it had a few oil and fuel leaks over the years and it was filthy. I have been cleaning it with purple power and boy has it been revaeling some nice panels, no rust what so ever. The floor is immaculate, inside of the bed panels are clean with oddly no rust anywhere, the cross members are even good on the bed. Alittle paint missing on the ends and some surface rust in those spots aswell as the fram rails no rust just some surface scale and dirt. BTW it is a 2 wheel drive and was never a DD. My question (finally, sorry) is do you guys think it is safe? I never drove it in the rain or snow though it did sit in the elements for all that time and is finally now in the garage. I looked at that foam inside the panels it does have some dirt in it but for the most part it is clean with no rust around it and no bubbles on the inside or outside (from what I can see). Is it too good to be true or were some of these trucks actually built right? Also I had the panel repainted on the right side of the bed, a buddy of mine did it and I got to see the panel with no paint on it no rust in the metal at all. What do you guys think, there any thing I can do to prevent it or you think I can leave it alone. Sorry for the long winded writing. Thanx, steve
Guys, what is the best washing procedure/timing? It's finally starting to get cold and icy, so out comes the road salt!
I'd like to wash her off when I get up to work but usually don't have time, so it's getting pushed back to lunch time or the end of the day.....at least until I can use my friends lift and give her the annual oiling.....
Guys, what is the best washing procedure/timing? It's finally starting to get cold and icy, so out comes the road salt!
I'd like to wash her off when I get up to work but usually don't have time, so it's getting pushed back to lunch time or the end of the day.....at least until I can use my friends lift and give her the annual oiling.....
Honestly I would only wash it a couple times if even that in winter. When you wash it you are pushing all the salt and crap into the cracks and crevices. The more you wash it the more that stuff gets pushed in and around the corners and stuff. Let the ice and crap build up, it acts as a barrier to more crap. Do the once a week or so washings towards spring when it starts warming up and there are puddles everywhere filled with salt.
When it’s not below 32* it gets washed even if it’s snowing out. My neighbors must think I’m a nut case. I have a hot/cold bib in the garage. One has to use common sense. Don’t wash if it’s gonna drop down to 10* overnight and its parked outside cuz it will freeze up. And you’re right Snowseeker if it’s not a thorough "Steve" military wash you’re just pushing it in farther and keeping it wet which spells rust.
There isn’t a nook or cranny I don’t get into with the hose on every wash (in the winter). When it was new to me I washed a good gallon of dirt out if it. My dad showed me his washing tricks growing up in the 60s when a car lasted 5 years in NY. His always looked good when he traded them in. Apply that to 4 years learning how to clean (and paint) equipment with Uncle Sam, add in my **** retentiveness and you have a clean rig. I need to move down south!
I’m also looking into installing one of those sacrificial anode rust inhibitors CounterAct and RustStop and others sell. I have one on a 16 year old GC Jeep and it’s just now showing some rust. Where is any Jeep I’ve seen the same year as mine is shot. The Jeep always received the above wash treatment too. The anode systems have been in use for years in marine and pipeline environments. The above companies have figured out how to apply this to a moving vehicle with special adhesive on the anodes to promote current flow. Some systems just charge the whole body (that’s what the Jeep has) but the ones with the anodes place through-out the vehicle are the best. The units without the anodes just charge the whole body. The current follows the path of least resistance with these units which doesn’t get everything. The units with the sacrificial anodes do.
When it’s not below 32* it gets washed even if it’s snowing out. My neighbors must think I’m a nut case. I have a hot/cold bib in the garage. One has to use common sense. Don’t wash if it’s gonna drop down to 10* overnight and its parked outside cuz it will freeze up. And you’re right Snowseeker if it’s not a thorough "Steve" military wash you’re just pushing it in farther and keeping it wet which spells rust.
There isn’t a nook or cranny I don’t get into with the hose on every wash (in the winter). When it was new to me I washed a good gallon of dirt out if it. My dad showed me his washing tricks growing up in the 60s when a car lasted 5 years in NY. His always looked good when he traded them in. Apply that to 4 years learning how to clean (and paint) equipment with Uncle Sam, add in my **** retentiveness and you have a clean rig. I need to move down south!
I’m also looking into installing one of those sacrificial anode rust inhibitors CounterAct and RustStop and others sell. I have one on a 16 year old GC Jeep and it’s just now showing some rust. Where is any Jeep I’ve seen the same year as mine is shot. The Jeep always received the above wash treatment too. The anode systems have been in use for years in marine and pipeline environments. The above companies have figured out how to apply this to a moving vehicle with special adhesive on the anodes to promote current flow. Some systems just charge the whole body (that’s what the Jeep has) but the ones with the anodes place through-out the vehicle are the best. The units without the anodes just charge the whole body. The current follows the path of least resistance with these units which doesn’t get everything. The units with the sacrificial anodes do.
I've always thought about adding anodes like boat's have...that's a lot of metal compared to an outdrive though
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