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I used bed liner I got from autozone. $60/gallon. I just eyeballed it and put some blue masking tape on it.....I'm no master painter. If you want to you can measure up from the bottom of the door and put a sharpie mark just inside the 2" mark (or where ever you want and just paint over the dots, that's what I did on my fenders.)
I just put a 2012 bed on my truck (after rust proofing my 2003 bed.) I finished doing all the work and replacing the cross members and found a 2012 bed for sale on CL. Couldn't pass it up!!
Awesome! More pics of your rust proofing! (or did you bag it all together in favor of the new bed?)
Awesome! More pics of your rust proofing! (or did you bag it all together in favor of the new bed?)
Ask and you shall receive....
A nice FLAKE!!
I replaced the full length of hard brake line from the rear diff to the underside of the cab,
I'll have to take some pics of the bed with the cross members replaced.
I used 1-5/8" uni-strut. The cross members are 2" and 3-1/4" tall, so I have stainless washers to make up the 3/8" where it needs to go from 1-5/8" (uni strut) to the 2" and where the cross members need to be 3-1/4" I doubled up the uni-strut.
Very nice Rose Clifford, I did the same with mine. Just be careful, that Por-15 is not good on the exhaust.
None of it is on the exhaust....I left the pipe alone. Exhaust work is a piece of cake, I'm not worried about it at all especially because mine is all straight piped.
That Cummins is bada**. It has way more power than my 7.3. I enjoy driving it, it's my friends truck. I have a video of me air chiseling the frame....I'll upload it tonight if I remember to....u guys gotta see it.
No offense man, but you really need to take better care of that truck if you like it. It's too far gone now but any amount of care could have prevented that. Spraying it with oil is an extremely easy solution, I've been doing it since my first vehicle.
None of it is on the exhaust....I left the pipe alone. Exhaust work is a piece of cake, I'm not worried about it at all especially because mine is all straight piped.
I hear ya. I left the exhaust on mine when I painted my frame, but I knew I was replacing the exhaust soon after. It's been 2 years since and it's holding up very well.
The tip was getting annoying to polish and keep clean so I painted it with some Webber grill paint....I buffed it off last week and it's already looking dull again
My 08 is showing rust in areas I cant get at (between the panels around the engine bay) and also underneath. I'll closely check the door bottoms today. I'm thinking I'll spray used motor oil all over the damn truck. I spray my quad and dirt bike with WD40 after every wash and it works awesome on the rust, not to mention it helps keep heavy mud from hanging on during the race which can prevent adding 100# haha. What type of "sprayer works best for used motor oil application?
That Cummins is bada**. It has way more power than my 7.3. I enjoy driving it, it's my friends truck. I have a video of me air chiseling the frame....I'll upload it tonight if I remember to....u guys gotta see it.
No offense man, but you really need to take better care of that truck if you like it. It's too far gone now but any amount of care could have prevented that. Spraying it with oil is an extremely easy solution, I've been doing it since my first vehicle.
I know exactly what your talking about with the air chisel. Every time I do any hitting with a hammer or impact work on our old trucks I have to sweep up 5 pounds of rust off the floor. lol
No offense taken, I know what it takes to keep rust at bay and have even posted it many times on here. The truck posted is on its last legs, that frame rust is minor compared to some of the other rust problems that truck has. I want to send a bill to my state to replace the truck they ruined.
For diesel coating, I don't cut it at all, just spray and let sit. If your doing a older truck for the first time it needs to be sprayed a couple times. The first time you spray it the oil kills the rust and all kinds of flakes and chunks fall off after a few weeks. Once they are all off and the frame is back to flat with no flakes on it you spray it again and then once every year after that. Just did my X before storage this last fall.
My 04 rusted throu the rear wheelwell after 1 Il winter (mucho salt), por 15 must be topcoated or it will breakdown, I had goodluck with rust bullet,the rear wheelwell bubbles apeared to come from rhe spotwelds, the tiny bubble was a 5" whole when I ground it down. It appears that the foam held the water/salt once it found a way in.
Boy oh boy. I sprayed the used oil on last night and what a mess. Imma go ahead and finish with it, but never again. I used a regular spray bottle and it went on a little too heavy for my liking. I will use WD40 from here on out. I may try an HPLV gun. Anyone tried that yet? Seems it would do a better job of spreading it out. I have an old gun I may try it out. Im not opposed to the coatings I just dont think they'll hold up over the long haul. If the metal stays wet with oil the water wont stick. And with the nooks and crannies a good coat of oil would work better than hoping the undercoating got in there.
My 04 rusted throu the rear wheelwell after 1 Il winter (mucho salt), por 15 must be topcoated or it will breakdown, I had goodluck with rust bullet,the rear wheelwell bubbles apeared to come from rhe spotwelds, the tiny bubble was a 5" whole when I ground it down. It appears that the foam held the water/salt once it found a way in.
Correct, POR is an undercoating and is NOT UV resistant.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.