Rust Through in 5 years
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 6
From: Whitecourt AB, Canada
It comes in a can similar in shape to a WD-40 spray can except it says Fluid Film on it... it can also come in larger containers, just like WD-40. But it's a lot thicker than WD-40.
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: N.Y.
Really ?
Let's see. License plate called Snow Hoe, truck is what, 5+ Years old and only 20,000 miles? Plow mount on the front, salt still on the fender walls.
Just plain neglect there. Plow with it, let it sit, plow again, let it sit. That kind of corrosion only happens with 1. Something that speeds up the oxidation process and 2. When you let it sit. A vehicle constantly being used and cleaned almost never has "fresh" looking rust like that.
So you get the truck covered in road salt, allow it to sit, than complain when it gets hideously rusty? Don't even say you don't do that. The amount of corrosion on the transfercase is more than enough evidence this truck sits for extended amounts of time with salt on it.,
Ian,
Yes it is my snow hoe and yes it does have a plow.and it is 5 years old.
Neglect my ***.. I baby this truck and use it sparingly to plow my massive 40'x100' body shop lot after which the vehicle is pressure washed.Sorry I only live 2 miles from work hence the 20 k mileage.Oh and the (salt) on the fender walls would be polishing compound residue.I suggest maybe checking out all the photos. As for the fresh looking rust...I spent 2 weeks wire brushing and grinding the chassis. I should have started out with more (before ) pics. Point being...If you try to point out problems with fellow truck enthusiasts there will ALWAYS be someone like you who thinks they know everything...By the way I can give you at least 11 examples of 2005 to 2007 F250's with the same issues that have NEVER plowed.
Best Regards
Snow Hoe
Just plain neglect there. Plow with it, let it sit, plow again, let it sit. That kind of corrosion only happens with 1. Something that speeds up the oxidation process and 2. When you let it sit. A vehicle constantly being used and cleaned almost never has "fresh" looking rust like that.
So you get the truck covered in road salt, allow it to sit, than complain when it gets hideously rusty? Don't even say you don't do that. The amount of corrosion on the transfercase is more than enough evidence this truck sits for extended amounts of time with salt on it.,
Ian,
Yes it is my snow hoe and yes it does have a plow.and it is 5 years old.
Neglect my ***.. I baby this truck and use it sparingly to plow my massive 40'x100' body shop lot after which the vehicle is pressure washed.Sorry I only live 2 miles from work hence the 20 k mileage.Oh and the (salt) on the fender walls would be polishing compound residue.I suggest maybe checking out all the photos. As for the fresh looking rust...I spent 2 weeks wire brushing and grinding the chassis. I should have started out with more (before ) pics. Point being...If you try to point out problems with fellow truck enthusiasts there will ALWAYS be someone like you who thinks they know everything...By the way I can give you at least 11 examples of 2005 to 2007 F250's with the same issues that have NEVER plowed.
Best Regards
Snow Hoe
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 0
From: Trenton, MI
Let's see. License plate called Snow Hoe, truck is what, 5+ Years old and only 20,000 miles? Plow mount on the front, salt still on the fender walls.
Just plain neglect there. Plow with it, let it sit, plow again, let it sit. That kind of corrosion only happens with 1. Something that speeds up the oxidation process and 2. When you let it sit. A vehicle constantly being used and cleaned almost never has "fresh" looking rust like that.
So you get the truck covered in road salt, allow it to sit, than complain when it gets hideously rusty? Don't even say you don't do that. The amount of corrosion on the transfercase is more than enough evidence this truck sits for extended amounts of time with salt on it.,
Ian,
Yes it is my snow hoe and yes it does have a plow.and it is 5 years old.
Neglect my ***.. I baby this truck and use it sparingly to plow my massive 40'x100' body shop lot after which the vehicle is pressure washed.Sorry I only live 2 miles from work hence the 20 k mileage.Oh and the (salt) on the fender walls would be polishing compound residue.I suggest maybe checking out all the photos. As for the fresh looking rust...I spent 2 weeks wire brushing and grinding the chassis. I should have started out with more (before ) pics. Point being...If you try to point out problems with fellow truck enthusiasts there will ALWAYS be someone like you who thinks they know everything...By the way I can give you at least 11 examples of 2005 to 2007 F250's with the same issues that have NEVER plowed.
Best Regards
Snow Hoe
Just plain neglect there. Plow with it, let it sit, plow again, let it sit. That kind of corrosion only happens with 1. Something that speeds up the oxidation process and 2. When you let it sit. A vehicle constantly being used and cleaned almost never has "fresh" looking rust like that.
So you get the truck covered in road salt, allow it to sit, than complain when it gets hideously rusty? Don't even say you don't do that. The amount of corrosion on the transfercase is more than enough evidence this truck sits for extended amounts of time with salt on it.,
Ian,
Yes it is my snow hoe and yes it does have a plow.and it is 5 years old.
Neglect my ***.. I baby this truck and use it sparingly to plow my massive 40'x100' body shop lot after which the vehicle is pressure washed.Sorry I only live 2 miles from work hence the 20 k mileage.Oh and the (salt) on the fender walls would be polishing compound residue.I suggest maybe checking out all the photos. As for the fresh looking rust...I spent 2 weeks wire brushing and grinding the chassis. I should have started out with more (before ) pics. Point being...If you try to point out problems with fellow truck enthusiasts there will ALWAYS be someone like you who thinks they know everything...By the way I can give you at least 11 examples of 2005 to 2007 F250's with the same issues that have NEVER plowed.
Best Regards
Snow Hoe
Before we jump on anything. Do you park your plow truck in shop or garage after plow?
That truck had MORE rusty than my 00 F350 with 220K and friend's 05 F250 with 90K.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
It is mostly due to automakers bean counters. If they would just coat things INSIDE and out the problems would be much much less.
Primer is not considered a coating! Primer is porous...
I know people with money don't care and will just continue to buy new all the time. But some day all the cheap crap automakers put into the vehicles will catch up to them, people will see whats happening to the vehicles and stop buying that make.
Being an auto mechanic makes a guy just sick to see what they are pulling off. Every time I work on a vehicle I want to slap people!
Primer is not considered a coating! Primer is porous...
I know people with money don't care and will just continue to buy new all the time. But some day all the cheap crap automakers put into the vehicles will catch up to them, people will see whats happening to the vehicles and stop buying that make.
Being an auto mechanic makes a guy just sick to see what they are pulling off. Every time I work on a vehicle I want to slap people!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 0
From: Trenton, MI
Please don't do that again. Too many trucks I see like that end in scrap. Do you know salt won't come off if you washed it still on it. When you put inside it make salt work again and eat it.
School district near my home scrap 2 00 and 02 F350 V10. They only had 27 and 38K miles. They plow snow then wash and put in garage. You should see bed on that truck it like it rot so fast.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: McHenry, IL
I think that they've changed a few things up on these trucks, hopefully, to delay the onset of rust. The '09 I just got has zero rust on the frame or undersides. It still looks new. My '02 was 4 years old with 39k miles on it when I got it and the frame already was showing surface rust all over. My '09 has 70k on it and it's surprisingly clean. Also, it looks as if they decided to quit using foam in the rear wheel wells. I can't see any on the new truck. Maybe, just maybe, after all the years that they've been building these SD's, they've got the corrosion problems fixed.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
I think that they've changed a few things up on these trucks, hopefully, to delay the onset of rust. The '09 I just got has zero rust on the frame or undersides. It still looks new. My '02 was 4 years old with 39k miles on it when I got it and the frame already was showing surface rust all over. My '09 has 70k on it and it's surprisingly clean. Also, it looks as if they decided to quit using foam in the rear wheel wells. I can't see any on the new truck. Maybe, just maybe, after all the years that they've been building these SD's, they've got the corrosion problems fixed.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
Soodude, regarding the Ospho, good tip. I Googled it and it looks like a good product, mainly due to the Phosphoric, Dichromate additive.
Expand a little so I we can all learn from your experience.
Qs:
1. Did you need to purchase the whole case?
2. Where did you purchase?
3. Any cleaning prep to the truck other than a good wash and knocking off the big chunks?
4. What are you using to apply it...pump sprayer?
5. Longevity? Does it stick good or just flake off like POR15?
6. Drop cloth under the truck? I don’t imagine it’s good for the driveway or grass?
I did read the application instructions but real world tips from end users are nice.
Wish I read this before I just spray bombed undercoating under my truck. I suppose I can still do this as you can get it into areas where the undercoating can’t.
I live in the rust belt too and am methodical about washing my trucks. I get into all the areas that hold dirt/debris etc...I’ll bet I can wash dirt out of a brand new truck off a dealers lot! I have a hose bib in my garage so everything gets a bath in the winter, almost daily when the salt shakers are out. I’m out there washing in snow storms. Neighbors think I need medication. I have 95 Jeep that’s just starting to pop in spots. It also has one of those electronic rust inhibitors. That’s next for this truck.
Expand a little so I we can all learn from your experience.
Qs:
1. Did you need to purchase the whole case?
2. Where did you purchase?
3. Any cleaning prep to the truck other than a good wash and knocking off the big chunks?
4. What are you using to apply it...pump sprayer?
5. Longevity? Does it stick good or just flake off like POR15?
6. Drop cloth under the truck? I don’t imagine it’s good for the driveway or grass?
I did read the application instructions but real world tips from end users are nice.
Wish I read this before I just spray bombed undercoating under my truck. I suppose I can still do this as you can get it into areas where the undercoating can’t.
I live in the rust belt too and am methodical about washing my trucks. I get into all the areas that hold dirt/debris etc...I’ll bet I can wash dirt out of a brand new truck off a dealers lot! I have a hose bib in my garage so everything gets a bath in the winter, almost daily when the salt shakers are out. I’m out there washing in snow storms. Neighbors think I need medication. I have 95 Jeep that’s just starting to pop in spots. It also has one of those electronic rust inhibitors. That’s next for this truck.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Soodude, regarding the Ospho, good tip. I Googled it and it looks like a good product, mainly due to the Phosphoric, Dichromate additive.
Expand a little so I we can all learn from your experience.
Qs:
1. Did you need to purchase the whole case?
2. Where did you purchase?
3. Any cleaning prep to the truck other than a good wash and knocking off the big chunks?
4. What are you using to apply it...pump sprayer?
5. Longevity? Does it stick good or just flake off like POR15?
6. Drop cloth under the truck? I don’t imagine it’s good for the driveway or grass?
I did read the application instructions but real world tips from end users are nice.
Wish I read this before I just spray bombed undercoating under my truck. I suppose I can still do this as you can get it into areas where the undercoating can’t.
I live in the rust belt too and am methodical about washing my trucks. I get into all the areas that hold dirt/debris etc...I’ll bet I can wash dirt out of a brand new truck off a dealers lot! I have a hose bib in my garage so everything gets a bath in the winter, almost daily when the salt shakers are out. I’m out there washing in snow storms. Neighbors think I need medication. I have 95 Jeep that’s just starting to pop in spots. It also has one of those electronic rust inhibitors. That’s next for this truck.
Expand a little so I we can all learn from your experience.
Qs:
1. Did you need to purchase the whole case?
2. Where did you purchase?
3. Any cleaning prep to the truck other than a good wash and knocking off the big chunks?
4. What are you using to apply it...pump sprayer?
5. Longevity? Does it stick good or just flake off like POR15?
6. Drop cloth under the truck? I don’t imagine it’s good for the driveway or grass?
I did read the application instructions but real world tips from end users are nice.
Wish I read this before I just spray bombed undercoating under my truck. I suppose I can still do this as you can get it into areas where the undercoating can’t.
I live in the rust belt too and am methodical about washing my trucks. I get into all the areas that hold dirt/debris etc...I’ll bet I can wash dirt out of a brand new truck off a dealers lot! I have a hose bib in my garage so everything gets a bath in the winter, almost daily when the salt shakers are out. I’m out there washing in snow storms. Neighbors think I need medication. I have 95 Jeep that’s just starting to pop in spots. It also has one of those electronic rust inhibitors. That’s next for this truck.
...just more work for me i guess lol there is stuff that is supose to kinda dissolve it i guess its made by Eastwood but ive never seen it before so i dont know how well it works.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
If I did it all over again I would do this Ospho first to kill the rust then undercoat. I guess as long as you seal the oxygen out the rust cant form or continue to grow.
A co-worker swears by LPS #3. He says it gets into the nooks/crannies and it dry’s to a waxy film. I think I’ll apply this to the insides of the doors and tail-gate areas as well as the bed supports.
My son has a southern Dakota which I need to hose down with this before it deteriorates much more.
A co-worker swears by LPS #3. He says it gets into the nooks/crannies and it dry’s to a waxy film. I think I’ll apply this to the insides of the doors and tail-gate areas as well as the bed supports.
My son has a southern Dakota which I need to hose down with this before it deteriorates much more.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Those bolts are a huge pain to get out, on my friends we ended up cutting them, then heating them up with the torch and using a monkey wrench to twist them. As far as the rust on the bottom of the door goes, you should get in there and fix it asap. The design is simple, the inside and outside panels of metal sandwich together at the bottom, and moisture gets trapped in between them. I used an angle grinder with a cutting disk to cut along the bottom edge of the door where it's folded over in order to separate the two layers. You will need to cut about 1" up from the bottom, and at the inside edge of the bottom as well. Once you get it started you can probably just cut the top then roll the metal back like I did....do not force it though, if it gets stubborn just encourage it with the angle grinder. Be mindful that you're paint is on the other side and try not to stay in the same place for too long, or go too deep with the cutting wheel. Here is a pic of the drivers side door, close to done with the cutting.
Here's a pic of where I started....I then used the grinding wheel and a wire wheel and brush to remove the rust.
And toward the front of the truck, drivers side
After I got it pretty clean, I used my MIG welder to tack the two panels back together. I left a decent amount of space between the panels in order to let air flow and moisture escape. Again, keep in mind that your paint is on the other side of the door when you're welding and move quickly!! I set up my shower-head hose attachment on the other side and ran it on the paint while I welded to keep it as cool as I could. I was planning on painting the bottom black anyway, but I could have kept it red if I wanted...the water worked to keep the paint from burning.
Here's a picture from the outside. I highly recommend doing this to your doors before they rust out on the bottom. The sooner you do it, the more good metal you'll have to work with. Also, the cleaning/prep work will be much easier. Less rust = less to clean .
Good luck, and keep fighting the good fight!!
Here's a pic of where I started....I then used the grinding wheel and a wire wheel and brush to remove the rust.
And toward the front of the truck, drivers side
After I got it pretty clean, I used my MIG welder to tack the two panels back together. I left a decent amount of space between the panels in order to let air flow and moisture escape. Again, keep in mind that your paint is on the other side of the door when you're welding and move quickly!! I set up my shower-head hose attachment on the other side and ran it on the paint while I welded to keep it as cool as I could. I was planning on painting the bottom black anyway, but I could have kept it red if I wanted...the water worked to keep the paint from burning.
Here's a picture from the outside. I highly recommend doing this to your doors before they rust out on the bottom. The sooner you do it, the more good metal you'll have to work with. Also, the cleaning/prep work will be much easier. Less rust = less to clean .
Good luck, and keep fighting the good fight!!
Bottom line, how hard was it to get your lines straight, AND is that POR 15 in this picture on the outside of the door skin as well or undercoating?
LineX will do the whole bottom of the truck, door sills and fenders for like $750. Not bad but I would love to do it with POR 15 myself. Or POR 15 first, then the LineX to make it look good and strong.
Thanks!
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
I used bed liner I got from autozone. $60/gallon. I just eyeballed it and put some blue masking tape on it.....I'm no master painter. If you want to you can measure up from the bottom of the door and put a sharpie mark just inside the 2" mark (or where ever you want and just paint over the dots, that's what I did on my fenders.)
I just put a 2012 bed on my truck (after rust proofing my 2003 bed.) I finished doing all the work and replacing the cross members and found a 2012 bed for sale on CL. Couldn't pass it up!!
I just put a 2012 bed on my truck (after rust proofing my 2003 bed.) I finished doing all the work and replacing the cross members and found a 2012 bed for sale on CL. Couldn't pass it up!!