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I am considering that too but IMO the camper gets the upgrades first, it is my Wife's Hilton on Wheels. Unfortunately the hauler does sit a lot, just a portable garage. I think that may be part of the problem, it sits with a car in it. We used it last fall on a trip to Ocean City, MD, that is when we blew the 3 tires. Used it once in May as a moving van for my son and now this trip to NJ. It will run again to NJ in the Spring to get the car and from there I will use my flat car trailer.
Update on the hauler. I took it to the dealer I got it from, they replaced all of the bolts and bushings. The factory put a weld spot on all of the bolt threads behind the nut and had to be cut off. Price was fairly reasonable. I may have them upgrade the camper's suspension.
My 2007 Nash 27F... Two new Northstar AGM batteries, no more SLA's for me. Replace my trailer plug/cord because the old one just a bit short with my new Torqlift receiver.. New 'break away' activation switch, old one cracked. New anodes in the hot water tank.... and replacing some coroplast sheets on the underside.
So.... My front window stone guard was cracked and the aluminum frame broken from a previous hurricane. Not reparable in my mind, and haven't used it in years... but decided to fix it. So to make a long story short... the cheapest I could find was a used one in GA for $500. Even went to a marine shop to make one and a a plastic fabricator near me... all MORE expensive. The price made my redneck-ness kick in. The OEM rock guard/window cover measured 65 x 24 and its 3" thick ... so I went out and bought one of those 5' outdoor, UV stable, plastic top banquet tables for $79. it measures 60 x 24 by 2 3/4''. Removed the metal legs/frame from the the table top. Transferred the old hinge from my OEM cover, bought 2 gas shocks $17, and spring locking pins $6. Final touches not finished, but 100% fit. I may paint the logo back on... krylon plastic paint works .
Looking for some expertise here. Currently in the market for an X to pull my camper which weighs in at just over 10k lbs fully loaded. I was hoping to confirm my research within the forum. From what I'm seeing, it appears that either the 7.3 or 6.0 diesels can handle this amount of weight, but if I went with the V10 I would need to make sure that I have the 4.30 axle ratio (which seems nearly impossible to find for some reason). Am I thinking about this the right way or is there anything else I should be considering. Thank you in advance for your help!
Looking for some expertise here. Currently in the market for an X to pull my camper which weighs in at just over 10k lbs fully loaded. I was hoping to confirm my research within the forum. From what I'm seeing, it appears that either the 7.3 or 6.0 diesels can handle this amount of weight, but if I went with the V10 I would need to make sure that I have the 4.30 axle ratio (which seems nearly impossible to find for some reason). Am I thinking about this the right way or is there anything else I should be considering. Thank you in advance for your help!
Welcome to the forum!
Any of those options will pull 10K. The trick is where you'll be pulling, for how long, and how much you want in the way of performance. Tom will tell you (and rightly so) that the V10 will perform flawlessly with proper gearing for the weight and tire size. So, will need a bit more info. Short answer is: any will do. Long answer is: depends on a whole lot of stuff.
What part of the country are you pulling in? Mountains? Flat? mix? Western or eastern? There are some good hills in the east, but out west is a bit different with the added issue of altitude.
Expected tire size?
Those two answers will open up a whole host of better information to your question.
Any of those options will pull 10K. The trick is where you'll be pulling, for how long, and how much you want in the way of performance. Tom will tell you (and rightly so) that the V10 will perform flawlessly with proper gearing for the weight and tire size. So, will need a bit more info. Short answer is: any will do. Long answer is: depends on a whole lot of stuff.
What part of the country are you pulling in? Mountains? Flat? mix? Western or eastern? There are some good hills in the east, but out west is a bit different with the added issue of altitude.
Expected tire size?
Those two answers will open up a whole host of better information to your question.
Thank you so much Keith - great to be part of the Forum and I can't wait to find my new rig!
I apologize for the lack of detail in my original question. I live in Colorado (which is where I will be doing nearly all of my camping) so mountain hills are a reality of life for me - oh and altitude. We're typically within a 2 hour drive to our camp site so we really don't plan on pulling over a super long haul.
As for tire size, not exactly sure here, but I really can't imagine I'd be running anything larger than a 33, but more likely something closer to a 285 under a 2-4" lift.
My goal is to have the most reliable and capable setup possible so I don't have to worry about pushing the capabilities of the rig with the camper behind me. Hope that helps and thanks again for everyone's thoughts and experience here - I am very grateful!
Thank you so much Keith - great to be part of the Forum and I can't wait to find my new rig!
I apologize for the lack of detail in my original question. I live in Colorado (which is where I will be doing nearly all of my camping) so mountain hills are a reality of life for me - oh and altitude. We're typically within a 2 hour drive to our camp site so we really don't plan on pulling over a super long haul.
As for tire size, not exactly sure here, but I really can't imagine I'd be running anything larger than a 33, but more likely something closer to a 285 under a 2-4" lift.
My goal is to have the most reliable and capable setup possible so I don't have to worry about pushing the capabilities of the rig with the camper behind me. Hope that helps and thanks again for everyone's thoughts and experience here - I am very grateful!
No worries!
I can't speak from personal experience with the V10, but from what I've read, Tom ( @WE3ZS ) would probably recommend a gear change with the V10 even at 33" tall tires. I can say that at 10K, the 6.0 in the stock configuration will work fine, but you'll have to manage it well. You can wake them up quite a bit with tuning, but then you're running into some of the weaknesses that the 6.0 is notorious for. As an example, in a stock configuration 6.0 (EGR delete only), I had trouble running the AC in the summer pulling my camper and loaded down with family and dogs. Probably around 8K all in on the camper but I never weighed it. Generally, the ECT and EOT would rise to the point that I didn't like it to be (over 220) and the fan would be screaming. I never had the typical 6.0 issues, but I obviously didn't push it too hard either. A head wind made towing almost unbearable on flat ground (which you'll probably experience). I guess what I'm getting at is that the 6.0 wasn't great in a stock configuration as far I'm concerned. It had good get up and go, and it would pull all day as long as I kept track of everything and managed the process of towing. That's one of the reasons I went to the Cummins, but that's another story.
For the reliability aspect, in a stock configuration, it's 6 in one and half dozen in another on the 7.3 and V10 as long as what you buy is well maintained and hasn't been abused. The 6.0 can be reliable, but it's a bit more work on your part for maintenance, aftermarket parts, and some engine work. If you want plug and play, I'd focus on a really well maintained rust free V10 and get the gears changed or hunt for a set of axles with 4:30's or taller.
I can't speak from personal experience with the V10, but from what I've read, Tom ( @WE3ZS ) would probably recommend a gear change with the V10 even at 33" tall tires. I can say that at 10K, the 6.0 in the stock configuration will work fine, but you'll have to manage it well. You can wake them up quite a bit with tuning, but then you're running into some of the weaknesses that the 6.0 is notorious for. As an example, in a stock configuration 6.0 (EGR delete only), I had trouble running the AC in the summer pulling my camper and loaded down with family and dogs. Probably around 8K all in on the camper but I never weighed it. Generally, the ECT and EOT would rise to the point that I didn't like it to be (over 220) and the fan would be screaming. I never had the typical 6.0 issues, but I obviously didn't push it too hard either. A head wind made towing almost unbearable on flat ground (which you'll probably experience). I guess what I'm getting at is that the 6.0 wasn't great in a stock configuration as far I'm concerned. It had good get up and go, and it would pull all day as long as I kept track of everything and managed the process of towing. That's one of the reasons I went to the Cummins, but that's another story.
For the reliability aspect, in a stock configuration, it's 6 in one and half dozen in another on the 7.3 and V10 as long as what you buy is well maintained and hasn't been abused. The 6.0 can be reliable, but it's a bit more work on your part for maintenance, aftermarket parts, and some engine work. If you want plug and play, I'd focus on a really well maintained rust free V10 and get the gears changed or hunt for a set of axles with 4:30's or taller.
Super helpful! My problem is that I just can't find a v10 with the 4.30 axle ratio. Everything out there seems to be a 3.73 and changing out the axles after the fact sounds like a nightmare. Maybe I'm better off just going on a unicorn hunt for the elusive 7.3 with low miles and no rust.. oh yeah, and within the budget.
Spending the New Year in the camper at Myrtle Beach State Park. We have never camped in January, starting the year off right. Been raining but temps have been in the 50s and 60s, we don't even have the heat on.
MB is so much more relaxed in the winter, not crowded, but stuff is still open. The campground is also fairly quiet, more adults and they do have programs for campers to stay for 1 month at a reduced cost.
Another overcast day at Myrtle Beach, the temp was 75 mid afternoon. We drove to Conway and walked thru a Grand Designs 315RLTS. I still believe Jayco makes a better quality unit, the GD did not feel as well built.
After that we drove to a every trip favorite stop, Lees Farmers market Lee's Farmers Market | Myrtle Beach in Murrells Inlet for their corned beef sandwich. Highly recommended!
Needed diesel, stopped at a Murphy station, 2.08 a gallon, all of the other stations around were 2.39 and up. Back at the camper, getting dark and starting to rain. We leave tomorrow. All and all a good 1st of the year trip.
Removed and (will) replaced all my coroplast panels. Repaired some rust on the rear bezel. While I'm there probably fix my gray and black tank(s) sensors and replace the fiberglass insulation with rigid insulation around my tanks. Some spray foam here and there without going crazy. (using PUR Black). https://todol.com/gun-foam/pur-black/ Inspect/Adjust the brakes, lube the bearings, grease the wet bolts, check the shocks and lube up the slide mechanism.
For a 2007 Nash, very little rust, and still solid floor. no signs of water leakage.
Question... what do y'all have on the bottom of your trailers? anything other then coroplast?
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
