So how long before you become like Cheeto and change your mind a brazillion times? The bronc-ho was going to be the ultimate trail rig, now it's gone and you have this thing. What's next????


:/flipoff

 

changed out the starter and the cables, got it running. it runs smooth and strong, actually sounds decent with open headers. couple of problems now though. you don't have to shim these trucks starters, but something is grinding, something that spins. not sure where the sound is coming from yet, but i think its the starter. the fan has clearance all around it, and the alternator is a new one and also has nothing touching it's fan, so the only other thing i can think of is the starter gear isn't pulling back out after it spins the flywheel. idk, i'll figure it out eventually. it was on a trailer still and it was dark so it wasn't the best conditions to be troubleshooting ****.

took it for it's maiden voyage, and it was scary as hell. i'm definitely thinking the hillbilly front lift needs some tweeking, or needs to go all together. could some of you guys with stock front spring hangers and shackles on your 78-79 f250's get me some pictures of how it should be so i can figure out how much booty fab is there, and how easy/difficult it will be to go back to stock. thanks.

 

As long as nothing is loose and it is dropped equally in the front and back it should be fine. If the front, for example is dropped and the rear left stock (front front, rear front I speak of) you'll have caster problems (not enough) which will make it "scary". You can fix this with cutting the perches and spinning the axle, or welding on some alignment shims. You man be able to get away with just putting some alignment shims in there, but I don't know how comfortable I'd be with that on the front axle.. it may be alright, idk.. I guess search on that one. Get us some pics of the setup you have going on. Also, obviously, go through and check any of the wear items in the front end for slop - TREs, spring bushings, shackle bushings, sway bar links if it has one (though I'd ditch that beotch asap for teh flexticles), drag link end links. Go ahead and get a decent check on the alignment if the wear items are good - as accurate as you can get with a tape measure in your driveway. Good luck DAN

 

Stock front leaf spring hangers:

 

holy ****, kirby ftmfw!!!! i guess if it is all fubared i can straight up unbolt **** in front and get some stock hangers for it. does anyone have any pics of the rear mounts?

 

 

hooray for me, looks like it all will come off with ease if i go that route. i just didn't know how rigged it was. i'll try to post pics of it later. i have like 1 foot long shackles, pretty stupid.

 

Dan, not sure what kinda tires your lookin for,but a friend of mine has a set of 46in claws for sale if your interested.

 

Set of SD springs a trip to the junkyard and that thing'll ride like a Caddy compared to how it is now...

 

well, i gotta see how much more fun money the wife will let me have, also might have a job lined up with a local concrete company when the winter weather breaks. didn't touch the truck at all today because i spent the last 4-5 hours loading, hauling and delivering the bronco to its new home. i did not have fun putting the top back on by myself. when we got to the town we were supposed to wait at the shell station to meet up with the broncs new owner. we went to the wrong one because the town had 3 of them, but it turned out to be an awesome mistake. as we are eating in the attached DQ we see a pristine 70's f250 4x4 with a stack sticking out the bed pull up to the diesel pump. i wait for the guy to come in and start in on him with the q&a. 78 f350 with a highboy body swap and a cummins. guy asks about the bronco and we chat for a bit. turns out he has like 10 old fords for sale, whole or parts and he just happens to have some 40'' tsl's, 2 with 90% tread, and 2 with 70%, oh and a d60f/14bolt rear setup for front coils 5.13's locked rear for sure, can't remember the front. they are in a bronco he's parting out with all new sheet metal. where the hell was this guy last week when i was looking for that setup????? wants $1200 for the axles and $500 for the tires no rims. wife might not let me go for both cause there are other things we could use before i blow all the money on truck stuff, but i think i can get her to change her mind
bye bye bronco

 

thanks for the offer, but unless they are $200 shipping would probably kill any deal for me. tell kris to man up and step to 46's, he's close
depending on how the front end is once i look at it and get an idea of whats up, i was planning on a set of 4'' s/d springs, but if i can salvage the hillbilly lift i might shorten it and go with 6'' s/d springs. gotta wait till i find out what the issue is before i just go dropping money on springs and shackle crap, might be as simple as some wore out old bushings. who knows.....
pic of front setup:

pic of shackle:

 

so i'm going to get those axles and tires.

next question: since they are setup for radius arms i'll need to buy some spring perches. if i went with them ruffstuff 2+'s does anyone know what i would have to do to the steering to make it match up with the moved axle? if i'd have to move the box i think i'll probably pass on them and just get regular perches.

 

get regular perches

 

well i rigged some exhaust on the truck that i am definitely not proud of. the shorty glasspacks sound like *** at idle with no tail pipes but sounds pretty damn good going down the road.

i am positive that the starter gear is staying engaged while its running. the exhaust was quiet enough that i could hear the gear and ring gear spinning/grinding together. the starter has the correct size nose cone, so i guess i'll just have to try out the other new starter on it tomorrow, ran out of sunlight today.

 

Dan, I had the problem on the 466 in the ranger. Try losening the bolts some and move the starter as far to the passenger side of the truck as you can. There is usually some wiggle room and that's usually enough. Also pull the starter and check the measurement from the lip of the bellhousing to the engine side of the ring gear. Then measure how far the starter gear comes out from the mounting flange. You may still need to shim it. There's a reason they have those starter shims in the "help!" section at most auto parts. Aftermarket starters are not all the same!