Motor Build
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Blaine, TN
about 1800 for the OEM rebuild kit, studs, and new intake and exhaust valves. Twin pumps-1400. Injectors-1000-1200. Comp 26925 springs were 180 I think. Everything else I already have on my current motor.
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From: Blaine, TN
Today when I got back in I was going to install my piston cooling jets. On the second one it didn't even get to the spec of 18ftlb and it broke the bolt in the block. I decided that it would be best to drill all the holes out and tap them for a larger M8 bolt. That worked til my tap broke. So in the morning i'm taking the block up to the barn and welding all of the oil jets in place.
I got the piston ring gaps set for all the pistons on the drivers side, cam bearings in as well, I will do the other pistons, and crank bearings and crank tomorrow.
I got the piston ring gaps set for all the pistons on the drivers side, cam bearings in as well, I will do the other pistons, and crank bearings and crank tomorrow.
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From: Blaine, TN
Nothing out of the ordinary Brian, just a factory rebuild kit. Every bearing and oring and seal in the motor is in the kit with new pistons, LPOP and oil cooler. The crank, and cyl bores all spec'd out fine. Everything on the motor has other than a few of the valves, which is why I am getting all new valves. It will all be a stock bottom end with all std size bearings/pistons etc installed.
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From: Blaine, TN
Brian, the cooling jets will never be a problem as long as you never remove them as they come factory. For whatever reason once they are removed and reused with the same bolts, they wont hold crap. I guess the torque spec of 18 ft-lb is too close to the yield point of the m6 10.9 grade bolt. You do not have to remove them to rebuild a motor. But if you do, use new bolts, or have them tacked in place. When I tried to reuse mine, it wouldn't even torque to 18ft-lb before it broke the bolt. It has been very common problem for everyone who has removed them and reused them. The first time I did my motor, I never removed them, and they are still on there holding today.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
Brian, the cooling jets will never be a problem as long as you never remove them as they come factory. For whatever reason once they are removed and reused with the same bolts, they wont hold crap. I guess the torque spec of 18 ft-lb is too close to the yield point of the m6 10.9 grade bolt. You do not have to remove them to rebuild a motor. But if you do, use new bolts, or have them tacked in place. When I tried to reuse mine, it wouldn't even torque to 18ft-lb before it broke the bolt. It has been very common problem for everyone who has removed them and reused them. The first time I did my motor, I never removed them, and they are still on there holding today.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Blaine, TN
No need for reps Mike! lol I was just sharing a little...of what little knowledge I have. You know that at no point, do I ever know what I'm doing.....I just poke at it in my head til it sounds good.
If your cooling jets have never been removed from your motor, no need to worry, they will be there forever lol.
If your cooling jets have never been removed from your motor, no need to worry, they will be there forever lol.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Suffolk, VA
I'm thinking out load here, but I wonder if the reason the bolts break on reassembly is due to the threads having oil on them. Maybe you were installing them dry. But when torquing the specs are for a dry bolt unless specified usually. Adding a lubricant changes that value and there's a big difference between torquing a lubed bolt and a dry bolt. Especially as it applies to head bolts and studs.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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And not to turn this into a cooling jets thread but why would you want to remove them anyways unless they don't work? or maybe also to get the block powder coated through an oven? They would take the heat though no?
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From: Blaine, TN
I'm thinking out load here, but I wonder if the reason the bolts break on reassembly is due to the threads having oil on them. Maybe you were installing them dry. But when torquing the specs are for a dry bolt unless specified usually. Adding a lubricant changes that value and there's a big difference between torquing a lubed bolt and a dry bolt. Especially as it applies to head bolts and studs.
So you can hone the cylinders, if you dont remove them and try to hone or bore a cylinder it will catch the jet and rip it off because the jet slightly sticks up into the bottom of the cylinder.
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From: Blaine, TN
Here are some more pics of the build:
Here is a pic for the location of the ring gaps on the piston. The oil ring gap always goes on the bottom with the 2 compression gaps on the top. The oil ring gap is at the bottom to allow the oil to drain out of the ring properly so you do not end up keeping too much oil above the oil ring and therefore getting alot of excess carbon buildup on the rings and burning oil. The rings are spaced evenly with a 120 degrees(just ball park it) between them with the oil ring gap facing straight down.
The bowl of the piston is offset because the injector isn't straight in line with the cylinder. There is an arrow on the piston with "CAM" engraved in it. That side of the piston points inboard towards the cam.
here is a pic of the new oil cooler center section and orings, with my ends that I cleaned up.
here is the stripped out GP hole from my other thread that I fixed today
Here is a pic for the location of the ring gaps on the piston. The oil ring gap always goes on the bottom with the 2 compression gaps on the top. The oil ring gap is at the bottom to allow the oil to drain out of the ring properly so you do not end up keeping too much oil above the oil ring and therefore getting alot of excess carbon buildup on the rings and burning oil. The rings are spaced evenly with a 120 degrees(just ball park it) between them with the oil ring gap facing straight down.
The bowl of the piston is offset because the injector isn't straight in line with the cylinder. There is an arrow on the piston with "CAM" engraved in it. That side of the piston points inboard towards the cam.
here is a pic of the new oil cooler center section and orings, with my ends that I cleaned up.
here is the stripped out GP hole from my other thread that I fixed today
As is all the info in this thread for that matter.
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From: Blaine, TN
Thanks Robin, I have mentioned to a few others, that once I get everything in so I can put it all back together, and get all the pics I need, I will be starting a new thread with pictures, specs and everything you need to know on the process of putting one back together. Jim said he would put it up where it was easy to find, that way if someone was looking for pictures, specs or any info on it, they wouldn't have to dig around through all these pages in here to find it.