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Thanks fellas, no reps needed though. I will have some more pics up tonight and tomorrow. I've been tied up on the tractor most of the morning trying to get the cornfield ready to plant.
Thanks fellas, no reps needed though. I will have some more pics up tonight and tomorrow. I've been tied up on the tractor most of the morning trying to get the cornfield ready to plant.
at least you have your piorities in line...corn makes whiskey!!!
hey Corey
my stage 1 arrived today so Im real interested in the port work you are doing. Any pics and tips in that area would be appreciated.
I used a 90 degree angle air tool and an assortment of bits in different diameters and shapes.
I will take one of the pics I took and point out exactly where and about how much I took off for you when I get a min and post it up in here.
If you don't have any cartridge rolls for buffing and polishing, then take a 4'' 1/4'' bolt, cut the head off, and taabouthack saw and make a slit in the threaded end about 3/4'' deep down the center, take some emory cloth and cut it in strips, fold it in half and work it down into that slit, letting it stick out each side 1 1/2'' or so. That is what I used for buffing, and it polished it pretty dang good.
Once you get the head off and the valves out, and stare at it long enough you will really understand what all needs to be ported and how much.
Ive done a fair bit of reading regarding this and do understand the principal. A matter of smoothing out the rough bits and opening the bend on the short side. Did you do any work on the intake runners ??. I have also read that the the exhaust outlets are smaller than the the inlets of the manifold and these can be opened up. ???
Just don't get crazy with port work. blending the transition from the bowl to the seat and removing any casting flaws works wonders. The short-side radius needs to be nice and smooth without removing a bunch of material. Also don't remove a whole lot from the swirl dam on the intake side.
Ive done a fair bit of reading regarding this and do understand the principal. A matter of smoothing out the rough bits and opening the bend on the short side. Did you do any work on the intake runners ??. I have also read that the the exhaust outlets are smaller than the the inlets of the manifold and these can be opened up. ???
I didn't do any on the runners themselves other than smooth out as much of the casting as I could, there isn't a whole lot to be gained there unless you are building an all out very high hp motor.
I really didn't take all that much away from it really, the pics really don't look anything like it.
I wouldn't do much on the exhaust ports IMO, you would very likely have some problems with it leaking if you made the ports the same size.
Originally Posted by mattr66
Just don't get crazy with port work. blending the transition from the bowl to the seat and removing any casting flaws works wonders. The short-side radius needs to be nice and smooth without removing a bunch of material. Also don't remove a whole lot from the swirl dam on the intake side.
like you said there isn't all that much to be taken out really, there is a good bit on the top, bottom and right of the bowl that needs to be blended with the seat though.
Hey guys... I'm definitally a newb with this stuff (I've never made a hot rod motor). But I figure a video like this couldn't hurt in terms of some visuals to the "port and polish" topic.
I'm sure most of you have seen this on TV... and it is a car show that has to make money so take it how it is..
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.