Motor Build
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Blaine, TN
Thanks bro! i've always got to be tinkering on something lol I can't leave anything alone for long.
The stage on cam is from Matt at gearhead automotive, the same guy that I have tune my truck. There are only 2 other companies I believe that are making cams besides him, simply because they are hard to design to work good and correctly, and his do, not to mention he has done great things combined with tuning and ported heads.
He has 2 cams right now available stage 1 and 2. Stage 2 is mean more for people running a larger setup with a turbo like the 4202r and larger, there will be some power loss below 1600 rpm with the stage 2 but major gains up top.
Stock lift is .425''
Stage 1-.450''
Stage 2-510" I think, and it does require fly cutting the pistons for valve recesses.
I am currently running comp 910s, but are not quite enough for the setup, rpms or boost pressures I will be running along with the nitrous I'm running now. The 910 seat pressure shimmed to a 1.775'' height is only 125 lbs, which isn't much more than stock.
I ordered the comp cams that just came in today that are the 26925 springs, they have a 400lbs/in rate and shimmed to 1.8'' height have a 145-150lb seat pressure which is just about perfect for the setup.
Termy twins are from Joey at terminator engineering, its his twin hpop setup.
The intake manifolds that are on my truck now, they are on my motor thats in the pic with my truck tore apart in the background. They are my steel version of the $300 billet aluminum ones, that I made for free, in about 2 hours because the stock ones are crap.
I will post some pics of the head porting when I get done with the polished finish on them, that takes the most time of it all. I'll post up alot more pictures as it all comes together when I get parts in.
The valves i'm using are just replacement OEM, one in this motor had smacked a piston, and 2 others were out of round spec, so i'm just replacing them all and lapping them to fit the used seats perfect.
I believe there are some really good aftermarket valves made by iconell, but they would be overkill for what I'm doing.
The smithbro pushrods i'm going to use are the ones currently in my motor. I'm leaving the factory rocker arms b/c you need to have a weak point. and since I have dozens of them laying around, Its alot easier and cheaper for me to replace a broken rocker arm than it is a single pushrod or valve.
There are lots of companies that sell hard parts from swamps, WOP, beans, and many others. But I choose Riffraff, and for good reasons. You can't beat his price, or service. He takes his time for me, asks my opinions, is a good friend and a brother and deserves my hard earned money. If he doesn't carry it, he'll get you in the right direction, bar none best service IMO.
You're more than welcome to anytime man, I'm always tinkering on something when I've got time.
Lol actually the trans part is what usually whoops my butt, the whole motor thing is a walk in the park. Ask JD, I have gotten so frustrated with that trans after having it out so many times, I have man handled it without a jack. When I had a fit with the guy at southbend, I was so mad that by the time JD got to my house 45min later, I had the trans on the ground by myself and taking the clutch apart.
A zipper would be nice though lol. I think I've got it down to about 3 hrs or so with one person helping me.
Thanks bro. I guess I could have the motor at RRE, but there will be alot missing off this one, It will pretty much be a long block all stock except arp headstuds. No hpop, no turbo, no injectors, no intake manifold lol.
And there isn't much left of the wiring harness either after I chopped off every wire thats not used/needed.
All I can say is you're getting him off on a great start!
And If I have a complete motor ready to swap, its an easy 1 day turnaround. 2 days to pull the motor, completely teardown, rebuild and reinstall....lol but thats pushin it. If you have one you'd like to bring or would like me to build you one, i'd be glad to, as well as do the swap at RRE for you.
You and Kahhhhla better be there
I really am watching your every move. So far great job !! But I have a few questions I hope you don't mind answering. I myself have built many motors over the years, but I have never done a diesel. Road race, street and the last few years for myself and friends marine engines. So my question is
Stage 1 performance cam : Who makes it? What lift and spec?
Termy twins : What is this?
My custom intake manifolds: Who makes or did you fab and to what spec?
New intake and exhaust valves: What brand, size and what angle of valve seat are you going with? Also who carries 7.3 diesel engine hard parts. Like jegs or summit I would use for gas engines. And here in NW Indiana we have a great Hi Pro parts store VanSenus and VSI warehouse I use. I thank you for your time and keep up the good work. I want to see all the photos that you are willing to post. I would really like to see the port job.
Keep up the goood work !!
Stage 1 performance cam : Who makes it? What lift and spec?
Termy twins : What is this?
My custom intake manifolds: Who makes or did you fab and to what spec?
New intake and exhaust valves: What brand, size and what angle of valve seat are you going with? Also who carries 7.3 diesel engine hard parts. Like jegs or summit I would use for gas engines. And here in NW Indiana we have a great Hi Pro parts store VanSenus and VSI warehouse I use. I thank you for your time and keep up the good work. I want to see all the photos that you are willing to post. I would really like to see the port job.
Keep up the goood work !!
He has 2 cams right now available stage 1 and 2. Stage 2 is mean more for people running a larger setup with a turbo like the 4202r and larger, there will be some power loss below 1600 rpm with the stage 2 but major gains up top.
Stock lift is .425''
Stage 1-.450''
Stage 2-510" I think, and it does require fly cutting the pistons for valve recesses.
I am currently running comp 910s, but are not quite enough for the setup, rpms or boost pressures I will be running along with the nitrous I'm running now. The 910 seat pressure shimmed to a 1.775'' height is only 125 lbs, which isn't much more than stock.
I ordered the comp cams that just came in today that are the 26925 springs, they have a 400lbs/in rate and shimmed to 1.8'' height have a 145-150lb seat pressure which is just about perfect for the setup.
Termy twins are from Joey at terminator engineering, its his twin hpop setup.
The intake manifolds that are on my truck now, they are on my motor thats in the pic with my truck tore apart in the background. They are my steel version of the $300 billet aluminum ones, that I made for free, in about 2 hours because the stock ones are crap.
I will post some pics of the head porting when I get done with the polished finish on them, that takes the most time of it all. I'll post up alot more pictures as it all comes together when I get parts in.
The valves i'm using are just replacement OEM, one in this motor had smacked a piston, and 2 others were out of round spec, so i'm just replacing them all and lapping them to fit the used seats perfect.
I believe there are some really good aftermarket valves made by iconell, but they would be overkill for what I'm doing.
The smithbro pushrods i'm going to use are the ones currently in my motor. I'm leaving the factory rocker arms b/c you need to have a weak point. and since I have dozens of them laying around, Its alot easier and cheaper for me to replace a broken rocker arm than it is a single pushrod or valve.
There are lots of companies that sell hard parts from swamps, WOP, beans, and many others. But I choose Riffraff, and for good reasons. You can't beat his price, or service. He takes his time for me, asks my opinions, is a good friend and a brother and deserves my hard earned money. If he doesn't carry it, he'll get you in the right direction, bar none best service IMO.
You're more than welcome to anytime man, I'm always tinkering on something when I've got time.
A zipper would be nice though lol. I think I've got it down to about 3 hrs or so with one person helping me.
Sweet!!
So does that mean the engine in your truck now will be at the RRE-11 swap meet?? I'll be there early, if you can swap a motor in 2 days, that'll leave me a couple days to spend with the wife!
I'll have my hired hand with me too, he'll be twice the size, and he's getting pretty good with hammers and wrenches!!
Looking forward to seeing the progress pictures and seeing it run in Newport!!
So does that mean the engine in your truck now will be at the RRE-11 swap meet?? I'll be there early, if you can swap a motor in 2 days, that'll leave me a couple days to spend with the wife!
I'll have my hired hand with me too, he'll be twice the size, and he's getting pretty good with hammers and wrenches!!
Looking forward to seeing the progress pictures and seeing it run in Newport!!
And there isn't much left of the wiring harness either after I chopped off every wire thats not used/needed.
All I can say is you're getting him off on a great start!
And If I have a complete motor ready to swap, its an easy 1 day turnaround. 2 days to pull the motor, completely teardown, rebuild and reinstall....lol but thats pushin it. If you have one you'd like to bring or would like me to build you one, i'd be glad to, as well as do the swap at RRE for you.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 4
From: Gary,Indiana
Thanks Corey, That really helps me to get a little better insight into what what these 7.3's tick. It sounds like you had to do a TON of homework to get to this point. Have you ever heard of Black Mamba's 7.3 I wonder what set up they use on that? But it sounds like you are going to have a real bad*** motor on your hands. I hope the drivetrain will handle it.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,365
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From: IOWA
Check your PMs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,241
Likes: 1
From: Powder Springs, East TN
Boy those photos bring back some memories. Nothing like the famous quote " Welp that valve is gone" 2 hrs later about have the engine ready to pull or the weekend motor build. You forgot the worlds quickest ratchstrap transmission drop several times lol. I cannot wait to see this thing done and ready to drop in the truck.
Sure thing, i'll do that on each step on the rebuild
lucky craigslist find lol
The cooling jets are already out for when I honed the cylinders. I will take some pictues wen I put them back in. I might tack the jet tube to the mount, but not tack the mount to the block. I'll just use locktite on the bolts. Everything on the motor will have time to sit and cure before its installed.
I'll get a pic of the plenums when I do the swap since they are on my truck now.
Hell yea lol, I will have it in within the next 2 months. I am really waiting on my cam 3-4 weeks out right now so right now thats pretty much the only holdback. But it'll give me plenty of time to get some miles on it before RRE
PS-This isn't going to be the only surprise for RRE-11.
You mean this one
Or this one
or this? lol
I'll take some pics of the cam install. On the pictured with the bare block, do you see the round hole in the front center of the block with the bearing still in it? That is where the cam goes, Its all hidden in the other pictures by the front cover. Its really a red, but its got more of an org/red look to it. It doesn't really matter to me what company used what colors, I just wanted it to look good lol, plus a lighter color like that helps to find a leak if I was to ever have one.
I'll take lots of pics. It's not all that bad of a project to do really. You would be surprised what all you can learn by tearing one completely down and really taking the time to look at it all.
lucky craigslist find lol
The cooling jets are already out for when I honed the cylinders. I will take some pictues wen I put them back in. I might tack the jet tube to the mount, but not tack the mount to the block. I'll just use locktite on the bolts. Everything on the motor will have time to sit and cure before its installed.
I'll get a pic of the plenums when I do the swap since they are on my truck now.
Hell yea lol, I will have it in within the next 2 months. I am really waiting on my cam 3-4 weeks out right now so right now thats pretty much the only holdback. But it'll give me plenty of time to get some miles on it before RRE
PS-This isn't going to be the only surprise for RRE-11.
You mean this one
Or this one
or this? lol
I'll take some pics of the cam install. On the pictured with the bare block, do you see the round hole in the front center of the block with the bearing still in it? That is where the cam goes, Its all hidden in the other pictures by the front cover. Its really a red, but its got more of an org/red look to it. It doesn't really matter to me what company used what colors, I just wanted it to look good lol, plus a lighter color like that helps to find a leak if I was to ever have one.
I'll take lots of pics. It's not all that bad of a project to do really. You would be surprised what all you can learn by tearing one completely down and really taking the time to look at it all.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
From: Modesto, CA
Looks like a fun build Cory!
May I make a couple suggestions? Instead of drilling the fuel ports larger, just use the banjo bolts in the back of the heads. I know someone that sells some nice custom stainless fittings that convert right to a -6 JIC fitting. Then run one pump to each head. That's what I did on my 95 and the 97.
And on your Terminator pumps, make sure they clear your custom plenums. If they have not been built yet, just remind me you have custom plenums and I'll clearance the rear pump for you.
May I make a couple suggestions? Instead of drilling the fuel ports larger, just use the banjo bolts in the back of the heads. I know someone that sells some nice custom stainless fittings that convert right to a -6 JIC fitting. Then run one pump to each head. That's what I did on my 95 and the 97.
And on your Terminator pumps, make sure they clear your custom plenums. If they have not been built yet, just remind me you have custom plenums and I'll clearance the rear pump for you.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Blaine, TN
Thanks Corey, That really helps me to get a little better insight into what what these 7.3's tick. It sounds like you had to do a TON of homework to get to this point. Have you ever heard of Black Mamba's 7.3 I wonder what set up they use on that? But it sounds like you are going to have a real bad*** motor on your hands. I hope the drivetrain will handle it.
Per the black mamba's sales sheet-
99-02 SEASONED FORD POWERSTROKE BLOCK
POLISHED CRANKSHAFT WITH STD. ROD AND MAIN JOURNALS
RODS ARE SIZED WITH NEW PISTON PIN BUSHINGS
NEW MAHLE FORGED ALUMINUM PISTONS
NEW MAHLE PISTON RING SETS
NEW HIGH PERFORMANCE ROLLER CAMSHAFT
NEW HIGH PERFORMANCE ROLLER LIFTERS
NEW CLEVITE ROD, MAIN AND CAM BEARINGS
NEW FREEZE PLUGS
NEW FLUID DAMPER
NEW INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES
NEW HIGH PERFORMANCE VALVE SPRINGS
REBUILT HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP
MELLING HIGH VOLUME LOW PRESSURE OIL PUMP
NEW ARP HEAD STUDS
ALL NEW GASKETS AND O-RINGS
NEW VALVE COVER GASKETS
NEW GLOW PLUGS
NEW CAM SENSOR
NEW HIGH VOLUME WATER PUMP
3/8 CHROME MOLY PUSH RODS
REBUILT TURBO WITH STOCK COMPRESSOR WHEEL
In my opinion, for $6k, this is a joke. Alot of the important parts they don't list brand names instead of just sayin 75hp over injectors, and unless you know what kind/size/nozzle you can't get a custom tune. And assuming they didn't provide that info, they probably just put larger nozzles on the stock intectors. Which is retarted unless you really really know how to tune for them. But if you do it can be amazing.
But even with 200% nozzles on stock injectors, they will not flow enough fuel to make 400hp, unless you run alot of nitrous.
I guarantee that there is no performance cam in these motors, lifters, "high volume" water pump, and these motors don't even have valve cover gaskets, they have UVCH's. And wth did they polish the crankshaft?
Much less they have all those other names and such to make it sound fancy, but still yet they use alot of rebuilt parts.
Anyone who knows anything about these motors, much less to sell them to people who know stuff about them, would NEVER try to run a stock turbo and make 400hp. Also they would list injector specs, and also put a recommendation for custom tuning for those injectors as well as other supporting mods like regulated return, valvebody or clutch etc.
Thats just my observation of the black mamba motor. I'm building a motor for a 575-600hp that is built and built right, all supporting mods and a whole whole lot more than this motor has, and i'm doing it for a whole lot less.
But even with 200% nozzles on stock injectors, they will not flow enough fuel to make 400hp, unless you run alot of nitrous.
I guarantee that there is no performance cam in these motors, lifters, "high volume" water pump, and these motors don't even have valve cover gaskets, they have UVCH's. And wth did they polish the crankshaft?
Much less they have all those other names and such to make it sound fancy, but still yet they use alot of rebuilt parts.
Anyone who knows anything about these motors, much less to sell them to people who know stuff about them, would NEVER try to run a stock turbo and make 400hp. Also they would list injector specs, and also put a recommendation for custom tuning for those injectors as well as other supporting mods like regulated return, valvebody or clutch etc.
Thats just my observation of the black mamba motor. I'm building a motor for a 575-600hp that is built and built right, all supporting mods and a whole whole lot more than this motor has, and i'm doing it for a whole lot less.
No sir sure not, the motor isn't going to be under that much stress.
It's overrated lol
Boy those photos bring back some memories. Nothing like the famous quote " Welp that valve is gone" 2 hrs later about have the engine ready to pull or the weekend motor build. You forgot the worlds quickest ratchstrap transmission drop several times lol. I cannot wait to see this thing done and ready to drop in the truck.
Looks like a fun build Cory!
May I make a couple suggestions? Instead of drilling the fuel ports larger, just use the banjo bolts in the back of the heads. I know someone that sells some nice custom stainless fittings that convert right to a -6 JIC fitting. Then run one pump to each head. That's what I did on my 95 and the 97.
And on your Terminator pumps, make sure they clear your custom plenums. If they have not been built yet, just remind me you have custom plenums and I'll clearance the rear pump for you.
May I make a couple suggestions? Instead of drilling the fuel ports larger, just use the banjo bolts in the back of the heads. I know someone that sells some nice custom stainless fittings that convert right to a -6 JIC fitting. Then run one pump to each head. That's what I did on my 95 and the 97.
And on your Terminator pumps, make sure they clear your custom plenums. If they have not been built yet, just remind me you have custom plenums and I'll clearance the rear pump for you.
The plenums are on my truck now, and shouldn't have any problems clearing, They are the same dimensions as stock, but have a lower profile against the heads. They are pretty much just like the billet aluminum ones available, but made out of steel. And if for some reason it was to be an issue, I can whip out another set to fit in about an hr.
Thanks Joey!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Blaine, TN
OEM rebuild kit and headstuds came in, I'm trying to take some pictures to post up for you guys or to use as reference. I just got the cam bearings in before I came in to get a bite to eat. I should get the crank, rods, and pistons in it today too before I have to stop for the day.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 4
From: Gary,Indiana
Cory thanks for your feedback on the black mamba. When I had read their info it sounded very vauge. And you knowing what you are looking for and talking about and you say "400 hp isn't going to happen out of a stock turbo or with their injectors" And as I look around I see vauge info on remans. That is why I am trying to learn all I can about these 7.3's and I'll just build my own. So thanks for sharing your build with us. I'm looking forward to more photos.
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Posting Guru
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From: Blaine, TN
Cory thanks for your feedback on the black mamba. When I had read their info it sounded very vauge. And you knowing what you are looking for and talking about and you say "400 hp isn't going to happen out of a stock turbo or with their injectors" And as I look around I see vauge info on remans. That is why I am trying to learn all I can about these 7.3's and I'll just build my own. So thanks for sharing your build with us. I'm looking forward to more photos.
No sir, stage one doesn't require it. Matt originally had a stage 1, 1.5, and 2. He now only has the stage 1 and 2. Stage 1 does not require any other modifications. Stage 2 will require the piston to be fly cut for clearance for the exhaust valve, but not the intake.
