12k cash
2 tickets
and a hotel and i will trade

btw glad the post helped ya.

 

i tested my glow plugs with a ohm meter and all but one read 7 ohms the other plug didn't read at all i'm thinking it could be a burnt wire or something under the valve cover but is 7 ohms bad

 

Good choice to sticky this thread now that fall is here.

I already plan to replace my GPR based on what I am reading here, but there are a few other issues that may indicate another problem for me.

My truck is dead stock, but I do have a Hypertech programmer for it. Since I haven't owned the truck very long I have run it stock initially to make sure that everything is ok. A few days ago I tried the stage one setting. I set it in a parking lot and everything was ok, but when I rolled out to the exit and while idling at the stoplight my truck began to chug and shake like a gasser with a bad spark plug. I drove around the corner, parked, and reset the computer to stock. When I restarted it it chugged for 10 seconds or so then smoothed out and drove just fine.

Now that the temps have dropped I also have a cold start issue. It doesnt want to start, but a tap of the throttle gets it going (I just read that I shouldnt do that), and then I get a puff of the white smoke. Sometimes it is fine after that, and sometimes it chugs. When it is chugging it smooths out after a few hundred feet of driving.

How much of this is glow plug related and how much is something else?

 

You are right DO NOT USE AUTOLITES!

I've never gotten autolites from them but I've only delt with them for 5-6 years a guess. If you ask for ZD-11 you'll get motorcraft beru's. They are not selling GP's anymore. The warranty must have got to them. I know I've taken a couple sets back.

 

i was hoping you wouldn't say ford they are proud of their parts maybe i can find a international dealer around here and it might be cheaper

 

Try all the mega auto part stores. AZ, Murrays, Pepboys ect.

If you're not in a hurry get them from the AZ website. 2.99 a piece vs 12.99. Ford may get you for more$$.

 

Jim, I checked all of the fuses both under the hood. All were good. Any other ideas? Thanks....

 

I'll give her a try but I don't think I'm getting power to the little wire on the GPR. I'll do some more checking and come back. Thanks!

 

lastnight tried to start my truck and cycled the key on and off severval times it didn't wanna start but did i know i have atleast one bad glow plug and needs replaced i ohmed it out and i'm gonna get a new gpr it can't hurt my question is after the truck started i let it idle for 5 mins before driving it then drove it for 5 miles and it ran like it wasn't firing on all the injectors had what felt like a miss to it once it got warmed up it ran better and had more power... could this be my injector o rings going bad or some other type of injector problem if it i would like to replace all the injectors and glow plugs at the same time.. if it is injectors i'm either going with stage one's or two's what would yall do? thanks

 

it is a 99 f250 sd crewcab sb 7.3 psd, purchased the truck 1 month ago tomarrow. it did good for the first week i owned it. then i started having problems, so my first thing todo was replace the GPR, unfortunately I didnt read the thread here or do any research, just told em what it fit.. so seventy dollars later, i got a new gpr... i think it was a gpr11. any way that helped a bunch, but now since it colder i have noticed a very poor starting condition, it sounds like it turning over fast enough, but it sounds like only one cylinder is trying to lite per revolution, and smokes bad while cranking, and for a few seconds after i do finally get it started. i have tried alot of different ways of trying to start the truck, right after key on, cycles "x" number of times, 5 max. if i sit there and just crank on it it will start but i REALLY dont like doing that, i know its tearing up the starter... thats why i dont run the truck much right now. my question is do i need to check the sensor for the oil pressure on the rails, or do i just need to plan on doing the gp's? as I am a bit tired right now I am gonna check the ohms on the injector harnesses tommarrow, and also she what the gp's cost at oreillys..

josh

update: just so you guys know I went outside this morning after the truck had sat for about 4 hours in 23 degree weather, and decided to test the voltage at the batteries during crank and the truck started right up.. the key was on for a max of maybe 30 seconds.. when I have left the key on for well over a minute before with all the key cycles and such trying to get it to run.. but as a side note i did not see the voltage go below 10 volts..

 

arkredneck, your issue sounds normal for a cold powerstroke, even more so if a plug doesnt work at all, remeber that oil has to thin out to fire properly,

it sounds like a glow pug problem, hit autozone, they are 2.99 each

 

i kinda hope thats what it is i'm sorta looking for a good excuse for injectors

 

oh, well in that case, your injectors are screwed. garbage, trashed. might i sugest a set of aftermarket stage 1's or stage 2's? they are half the cost of ford stock remans and will be a big improvement in your truck.

 

i've been looking but the only difference i can tell in stage 1's or 2's is the nozzle and 2's cost a lot more i'm really not wanting to have to get a new hpop to run new injectors or a bigger turbo so i really don't know whats best for me

 

yup, the main difference is the nozzle is changed in the 2's. i would go with 2's and get a super duty high pressure pump, odds are your stocker is worn as is and if you are going to spend the money on injectors just go with big ones one time, i have heard alot of guys that bought ones say they wish they got 2's and been done with it