Glow plug sticky cleanup thread
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I just replaced my GPR, and the new one froze and discharged the batteries. After puting a new one from Carquest at jobber price of $76, the wait to start light would not come on, and I did not hear the fuel pump sound. After charging , it remained the same, and the truck would not start at all. Any ideas? #2 is there a fuel reset for the pump, & where is it located?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
I just replaced my GPR, and the new one froze and discharged the batteries. After puting a new one from Carquest at jobber price of $76, the wait to start light would not come on, and I did not hear the fuel pump sound. After charging , it remained the same, and the truck would not start at all. Any ideas? #2 is there a fuel reset for the pump, & where is it located?
You came to the right place to get help for your truck. Lots of nice people here.
I assume you have a 94.5-99 Powerstroke since you posted in this forum.
Check #22 fuse under the hood, if that doesn't do it check all the fuses.
There is no fuel reset, Those are found on electric pumps only. We have a
mechanical pump that lives in the engine valley under the fuel filter cover.
You can check you fuel pressure under that cover. Look for a schrader
valve (like a tire valve). Should be about 30-50 psi while cranking...up to
50-80 psi running. You can use a cheap tire gauge. Be sure it's a cheap
one, it will be ruined after the diesel gets in it. Also, you can press on the
center, needle valve while cranking, if fuel spurts out the pump may be OK.
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
cutupsteel
I am sorry if I intruded on the year of my F350. Mine is a 2000, which appears to have and in-line electric fuel pump located inside the left frame of the chasis. It is about 5 inches long and has two wires attached. Perhaps I am misinterpreting. Note: I checked all the fuses, and 1 related fuse under the dash (10 amp), #15 was burned out. I replaced that, but the electric fuel pump still does not run(which could be heard before). Also there is voltage into the gpr from the ignition switch, but, apparently it is not strong enough to engage the relay, but I can engage the relay by jumping directly from the battery. The battery voltage is 12.31 volts. All the fuses under the hood are good, including #22. Cranks the engine very well, but no attempt to fire. No wait to start light appears. The dash and the blower work fine. Could it be a damaged relay or computer?
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
Sorry, I just don't have the time to read through all this I'm at work. I have white smoke on cold start up but I just plug the truck all the time and it starts fine. If I have one or more GP that are bad but I plug it in does it matter if I don't change them?
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help. However I am selling the truck and don't want an unhappy buyer. Calling in professional help. I suspect the PCM is damaged. I don't have a diagnostic computer, and the code reader was unable to communicate with the PCM, stating there was an error. Thanks againtndiesel
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 49
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screech.owl
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Thanks for your help screech owl. I have already tried pulling the leads to the fuel bowl heater, and I checked the heater inside the fuel bowl. I checked #22 maxi fuse both with volt meter and with ohms. Pass through the fuse was intact with both. I think the fuel bowl heater is present on all diesels, but perhaps not in hot climates. My plug is on the back of the bowl and down quite low. I have now pulled my PCM(computer) and am looking for someone who can test it off the truck, which sits where there is no ac. I opened the box, but the printed circuits are not accessible without removing the bonding material in the case. After checking everything else, I suspect the PCM--either lost its programming or a component damaged. May need a good used one that is programmed for a 2000 7.3 with automatic transmission(F350), or I may have to go for a rebuilt.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the info guys. My truck wouldn't start one day after white smoke startups a few days before. Couldn't make it to work, but the first thing I checked was the GPR and it was bad. Changed it and I got perfect startups. Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
After reading 16 pages of this I finially got the gumption up to fix my cold start problem! I HAD been plugging it in when below 45 degrees EVERY night for the past 4(?) years! I trouble shot my extenstion cord [in another thread (bad nuetral)]. and someone mentioned the GPR. Well, 16 pages and 70 bucks later, my GP's work!!!
I know I know I did it a little bass ackwards by fixing it in the spring and not last fall but I am ready for next year!
Thanks to Everyone on this thread!
I know I know I did it a little bass ackwards by fixing it in the spring and not last fall but I am ready for next year!
Thanks to Everyone on this thread!
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
I found a 97 I am looking at buying, but when I started it up it puffed white smoke for over 7-10 min. and did not stop until I took it out of the lot and got it warmed up, but when I pulled out it bellowed white smoke when I gave it the gas. It has 220,000 mile on it is there any way this might have been a valve guild issue?