Glow plug sticky cleanup thread
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 189
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97 hard start white smoke GOOD plugs and GPR
97 with all hypermax stuff...chip turbo cooler injectors pipe etc. STILL has hard start when cold and white smoke puff at startup (then smokes average amount for having injectors) i checked all glowplugs at the harness connector and all had continuity(all also had around 1.7 ohms) and i put a new relay on just to be safe. but STILL the problem persists. if i plug it in, hard start is eliminated but still some white smoke somewhat at startup. what the hell's going on with this truck? possibly fuel pump: engines warm so seals and stuff are expanded and can seal or what not. but when it's cold, their contracted and having difficulty doing their job!? something in fuel pump possibly? i dunno..help me out! maybe this is just how this itruck is?!
New User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11
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Hi Vipertrtbllck that sounds like mine truck i did change one glowplug since the rest seems to be allright, but still diffecult to start in the cold weather and also a lot of white smoke. Someone said to me that it is just unburnt diesel because of bad starting. Got now glue if thats the thing! I drive an standard E350 7.3 L from 95
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 320
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From: Wisconsin
Glow plug temperature sensor
My '96 Powerstroke doesn't start under about 55 degrees without using ether. So quickly I am going to replace the glow plugs, glow plug relay, and valve cover gaskets, all of which I already purchased. Aside from the wiring harnesses, what other parts are there to this glow plug circuit? My glow plug light will stay on for maybe three seconds when it's 60 or above, and down to 40 degrees it will stay on for about 8 - 10 seconds. I haven't owned it in any colder weather yet. I would think it should be staying on longer than 8 seconds at 40 degrees?
So after looking at a Ford service manual, my question is about a temperature sensor in the engine block or oil pan. I've read that this reads the temperature and sends a signal to tell the relay how long to stay on. Has anybody ever heard of or replaced this part? And would you know if this is a dealer part or if it could be bought at NAPA? Provided I don't want to play around with this, I would rather replace as much of the circuit as possible provided this sensor wasn't a ton of money.
I appreciate any comments!
So after looking at a Ford service manual, my question is about a temperature sensor in the engine block or oil pan. I've read that this reads the temperature and sends a signal to tell the relay how long to stay on. Has anybody ever heard of or replaced this part? And would you know if this is a dealer part or if it could be bought at NAPA? Provided I don't want to play around with this, I would rather replace as much of the circuit as possible provided this sensor wasn't a ton of money.
I appreciate any comments!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 2
From: SHELTON, WA
try unplugging your fuel heater wire on the side of your fuel bowl. there is two on the side it is the upper one. then in the under the hood fuse box replace the #22 maxi fuse and give it a try.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,306
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From: Bryan/College Station
Unplugged the conector and changed the fuse, still nothing. I just tested the glow plugs and the relay. GPs bad relay seems alright, I have voltage present at the VC harness connector.
The Truck is new to me, got it on Wednesday. 96 F350 crewcab 2x4.
By any Chance are the later model valve cover gaskets able to be used on this truck? I have a set in the shed, I will get the P/N off them and post tonight or tomorrow.
The Truck is new to me, got it on Wednesday. 96 F350 crewcab 2x4.
By any Chance are the later model valve cover gaskets able to be used on this truck? I have a set in the shed, I will get the P/N off them and post tonight or tomorrow.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 2
From: SHELTON, WA
if you pull the wire and fuse is good and then no lights something else is blown.
the maxi fuse is a big one.
the maxi fuse is a big one.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,306
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From: Bryan/College Station
There were two connectors. I pulled the top with a square looking end and the fuse wasn't blown.
I just checked for voltage at the connector for the wait to start light assembly. Good there, looks like the light circuit board is bad or something.
I just checked for voltage at the connector for the wait to start light assembly. Good there, looks like the light circuit board is bad or something.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 2
From: SHELTON, WA
Yup The Lights Are Probably Blown. Those Are An Easy Fix. Ok So Re Attach Your Fuel Heater Cord To The Fuel Bowl Then And Check Out Your Gpr And Glow Plugs With An Ohm Meter.
If You Need It To Start Just Plug It In For About 5 Minutes Or So With The Block Heater.
If You Need It To Start Just Plug It In For About 5 Minutes Or So With The Block Heater.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 2
From: SHELTON, WA
Originally Posted by travisd
I've got one bad GP, front on the passenger side. I figure if I'm going to fix it, I will do all 4 on that side. Are the valve cover gskts reusable, if not, where's a good place to get them?