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I can spike mine to over 1500 -- not worth worrying about unless you're pulling heavy up a long hill, then that 200 deg drop can be worth it...
EDIT: With the van turbo, 6.0L I/C, & stock injectors (+ all the "standard" mods below) I was hard pressed to get my EGTs to 1300, even when I stood on the accelerator pedal in any tune.
In one pass down the drag strip I look at my EGTs as soon as i let off of it... Everytime it's pegged on the guage and takes like 2 seconds to come off the peg. LOL it's a 1600* guage. I'm working on getting that number down soon, but a short burst over 1200* won't hurt a thing. It's staying over 1200* for 10 seconds or more that hurts it.
...I'm just talking about the short bursts and passing. Probably more worrying than I should be doing...
Having your EGT increase while accelerating is "normal operation" for a turbo-diesel and as I'll explain it's also "mandatory operation"! After you apply more throttle all 8 cylinders immediately receive more fuel (after 2 revolutions of the crankshaft) but the airflow to the cylinders remains unchanged and this means a sharp reduction in AFR=Air Fuel Ratio mass ratio which increases the AFET=Air Fuel (Ratio) Exhaust Temperature contribution to the EGT which is the component of EGT due to combusting fuel at a given AFR and accounting for heat loss to the coolant and extracting HP from the fuel heat during the power stroke.
Then since the TSHP=Turbine Shaft HP generated is directly proportional to (EGT+460) the increased EGT causes an increase in TSHP which increases the CSHP=Compressor Shaft HP which allows the compressor to operate at a higher CPR=Compressor Pressure Ratio which is given by CPR=(AAP+BP+ICPD)/(AAP-AFPD) and the higher CPR allows more BP to be produced which increases the airflow to the cylinders which increases the AFR which decreases the AFET contribution to the EGT!
As long as you're accelerating this EGT-BP dog is still chasing its tail and the EGT remains elevated compared to its steady-state value! If you install a larger IC that has a larger volume to fill it will result in a larger time delay before the EGT-BP dog finally catches its tail toward the end of an acceleration event and the same is true for an IC that has a larger ICPD at the same volume airflow!
Since the CSHP that's required to operate at a given CPR to produce a given BP is directly proportional to (AFIAT+460) the one thing that helps lower EGT when accelerating and when operating with a constant load on the engine is to lower the AFIAT=Air Filter Inlet Air Temperature *F to the lowest value possible!
With a "cold-air intake" the AFIAT is approximately equal to the AAT=Ambient Air Temperature *F independent of engine load but with a "hot-air intake" such as with the 6637 mod shown in your signature (or with any "open-element" under the hood AF) the AFIAT is approximately equal to the temperature under the hood which according to all known laws of Physics is always higher than the AAT!
Originally Posted by deerslayer165
...I don't believe its a boost leak, I can hit 25-26psi pretty easy...
This also means your wastegate control system has been tampered with and that you're running your GTP38 turbo at too high a CPR for efficient operation. At a 300 ft altitude a BP=26 psig requires a CPR=3.05 and values of CPR higher than about CPR=2.8 result in a drastic loss in compressor efficiency. Trying to run too high of a BP with any turbo involves considerations similar to the ones I discussed in post #11 here for using Mod1 to increase the BP on a stock setup and that mod resulted in more BP but less FWHP... 113 things to know about a stock 7.3L PSD @ WOT!!! - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums !
I can spike mine to over 1500 -- not worth worrying about unless you're pulling heavy up a long hill, then that 200 deg drop can be worth it...
EDIT: With the van turbo, 6.0L I/C, & stock injectors (+ all the "standard" mods below) I was hard pressed to get my EGTs to 1300, even when I stood on the accelerator pedal in any tune.
My truck's EGT's are very manageable. No matter how heavy I pull. (Up to 30k gross)
However in 120R I can peg it to 1600. Stage 1's put out too much fuel to spool up. I skyrocket to 1000 degrees and then the turbo cleans up. Then it's a slow climb to 1600. I would think a bigger turbo or water injection would work great. I still need to get around to putting my stage 3 kit from coolingmist on my 7.3 haha.. stupid 6.4 is sucking up all my $$$
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