Nobody here is "wrong", just different paths were taken different lengths. Take note that on my running calculations, I stuck with what was reasonably discernable, and quit before factoring in the actual truck itself where I felt greater assumptions would have to be made. I had thought I made that clear:

I find many typical setups are 500lbs tongue weight, not the 1000 you are running with. And there is the question of use of the likely needed weight distribution system. But none of this is known through the pictures.

However, it is known that the rear of the truck was lifted off the ground and that speaks volumes.

 

Again, wrong...there is no "typical" tongue weight! It should be at least 10% of the loaded trailer. And as far as lifting the rear of the truck...tell me you have no experience in hauling without telling me you have no experience in hauling! I've lifted the rear of a 3/4 ton truck loaded with tools several times if not blocking the resr of the trailer or having trailer ramps with a "heel". All it takes is about 6000 lbs (skid loader) to do that! And if you think a 3/4 is not big enough to pull a skid loader, you are sadly mistaken. I would just about bet my 1 ton would come off the ground too if the trailer wasn't blocked up if I loaded this tractor in the picture...and my truck is good for 20k lbs. Many people either overload or underload the hitch on a trailer...I giggle every day at the way people load stuff. Like I said before, GCWR is the only real factor here as long as you aren't exceeding any of your axle, and more importantly, tire capacity.

 

You just seemingly want me to be "wrong" so bad...

The maximum tongue weight I was referring to is not a function of the load but that of the towing equipment (tow vehicle, receiver hitch, drop ball adapter etc...) where I elected to suggest 500 as a plausible number. You chose 1000. We can each backup our assumed numbers. Regardless of our assumptions, the actual tongue weight (the ideal ~10% you correctly have mentioned) must not exceed the capabilities of the equipment (take the minimum from the system, wether it be the receiver hitch, vehicle rating, drop ball adapter etc....). An example of towing equipment ratings from the 2024 F-150 Towing Guide:



Your normalization around the lifting of the truck off the ground as pictured is alarming to me. The trailer is not blocked/supported and there are no tire chocks pictured. It could be completely possible the only thing keeping the tow vehicle and trailer in place is the parking pawl in the presumed automatic transmission that would lock the presumed RWD axle. Maybe they even engaged the parking brake so there is friction material engaged locking the rear axle too! Lift that rear axle off the ground and now you have the potential to roll away as nothing is preventing any of the ground contacting wheels from rotating causing a runaway.

I regularly tow vintage tractors similar to what was attempted in the pictured incident and would not be satisfied with the pictured situation as it seems. If this unfolded at any of the tractor gatherings I attend, there quickly would be a flock of men that would become belligerently friendly to the foolish perpetrator and provide strong suggestions and assistance.

 

Towing capacity doesn't have anything to do with lifting the rear of the truck off the ground. That's just a matter of poor planning. A simple matter of some cribbing under the rear of the trailer and/or ramps would have taken care of the situation.

Good thing the guy was on level ground. Too many times situations like this get out of hand. Once those back wheels are off the ground the parking pawl and emergency brakes are meaningless.

 

@bobbytnm , yup. We got deep and technical stemming from a picture that had some funny business going on. I just commented that the situation was obviously dubious and then someone was bent on proving that (or I) was wrong and the pictured situation is fine.

 

No worries
Discussions like this are always interesting.

 

 

I’ve seen this reel before but without the colorization and what I assume is over dubbed sound? Sounds like a diesel rattle. Lot of detail in the sound track.

 

I think I'd like it better in B&W. The colorization just seems kind of fakey. I was impressed with the hydraulics of the dump beds and the "motorhome" slides and roof. We tend to think of that as a modern invention. Who knew???

I also noticed at the :39 mark, you see a car in the background on the road behind, through the truck's passenger window, stop and back up as the truck driver is putting the dump bed through it's paces. Funny.

 

I don't think that's the colorization we're used to. I think that's modern AI colorization that makes everything look fake.

If you've noticed, some of the black and white pictures have a fake, flat look as well. That's where someone runs it through an AI filter that copies the contents without retaining any of the original data or pixels. They don't show up as the originals, when you do an image search, so they don't get a copyright strike. As far as the internet is concerned, the one that lifted and filtered the image shows up as the owner.

Example:

 

It's very light duty, but it is working.
The other day I loaded up a push mower and drove it 25 miles to my daughters place. Forgot to take a picture.
Yesterday I loaded up my used oil to drop off at O'Reilly's. They get a kick out of my container. It was used for drinks at my son's wedding. It works great for used oil. Then a quick trip to Walmart for a few groceries.

 

Are your electrical issues resolved? I have memories of public embarrassment in the early days of my truck being back on the road. I'd be in a parking lot like your truck, some curious onlookers would gather, and when it was time to leave, the truck would struggle to start and sometimes wouldn't. That hasn't happened for a while though. The truck is running better and there are fewer curious onlookers these days.

Your paint is looking a little oxidized--maybe it needs a little wax. LOL. I remember in the old days my dad would have us wax his car in the fall but not buff it out. In the spring we would wash and buff.

Jim

 

Jim, I hear ya on those moments. Lately with a rebuilt carb and fuel pump my truck starts right up. It used to start hard when the engine was warm. I fixed that with getting new cables. But it is embarrassing when you have on-lookers and it takes a lot of cranking to start. And likewise it is cool when people are watching and your truck starts with just a quick push of the starter button .

 

Also embarrassing when you have to get towed, in your own neighborhood! Happened to me twice before I went through my fuel system tank to carb.

 

It's starting better but not as good as I would like. I ordered a carb rebuild kit from Cowboy John. He will mail it tomorrow. This may not have much of an impact, but I rebuilt it myself about 10+ years ago and I know more now than I did then.
I'm going to measure for a new ground cable from the battery to take it to the block. Someone mentioned a bellhousing bolt, so I will check that distance and bolt size. I think the truck shop near my house still makes the cables, they changed hands a few years back. Then I need a block to frame ground.
I need to crawl under and find a good spot.