Man has some Skillz
V10 89F150 buildthread
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Make it move on it's own power 
I still want to see the first smokey burnout, but that can wait until you make sure the truck isn't going to twist up like a pretzel around the driveshaft
I still want to see the first smokey burnout, but that can wait until you make sure the truck isn't going to twist up like a pretzel around the driveshaft
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Got off work early and decided to play a little with the toy. Here's the exhaust bolted to the manifold. I still have to make mounts to hold it up in the rear. I also need to add/modify the exits better so they come out underneath in front of the rear tire. Right now they point right at the tread of the tire.
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Luckily this part of Texas doesn't have to worry about ice. It about 73/74 today and wednesday it's suppose to get to 77. Lovin Texas this time of the year!!! Now June-Aug when the heat index is between 100-115 every day, I wish I was back living in Alaska.
Got the day to work on the truck. Ended up boxing the passenger side frame. If you look at the picture you will see an orange thing hanging on the end of a tube. Right underneaths it is the front bolt for the bed. I left it open in case I ever need to take the bed off. To the left of that is the rear cross member holding the cab on. I cut the lower Y part of the member off and boxed the frame. I then shorten it and rewelded it to the frame. No more rivets!! As far as boxing the frame more, I more than likely will box more toward the front. I can't go too far forward because if I ever need to take the tranny out. I need to use that space to get the lower cross member out from beneath the transmission. I figure the weakest part of the frame is the spot between the cab and the bed. That is why I am only going to box that part of the frame.
Got the day to work on the truck. Ended up boxing the passenger side frame. If you look at the picture you will see an orange thing hanging on the end of a tube. Right underneaths it is the front bolt for the bed. I left it open in case I ever need to take the bed off. To the left of that is the rear cross member holding the cab on. I cut the lower Y part of the member off and boxed the frame. I then shorten it and rewelded it to the frame. No more rivets!! As far as boxing the frame more, I more than likely will box more toward the front. I can't go too far forward because if I ever need to take the tranny out. I need to use that space to get the lower cross member out from beneath the transmission. I figure the weakest part of the frame is the spot between the cab and the bed. That is why I am only going to box that part of the frame.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Those two KP Dana 60's are parts I'm collecting for my 86 F250 build. In fact a big reason I'm building this F150 and reinforcing the frame is to haul that F250 4x4 around. Call me crazy, but I'm actually in the process of trading one of those KP's for a Super 60.
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Thank God the holidays are over with!!! Started on rerouting the tranny lines and then worked on mounting the E350 radiator. While I was doing that I started looking at the way the motor sat and it really started to bug me. It was canted backwards and decided I need to correct it before I went any farther. To make it sit lower I would have to make solid motor mounts and push it back about an inch so I can get more clearance between the oil pan and the cross member. Doing this causes the A/C compressor to hit the crossmember, so I'll have to notch the crossmember and also shave the compressor so everything fits. Heres pictures of compressore and oil pan before.
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
I jacked up the motor out of the way and finished notching the frame for clearance of the A/C compressor. Also good shot of the solid motor mount
Used a bent up cylinder cap from a bottle like one of these. I should have zoomed out and got a better picture, so you could see the size of these caps. They're double the size of one's for oxygen or helium that you're probably use too seeing. After some cutting of the chop saw, a little pounding with a hammer, and some grinding, it was a perfect fit.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Thanks Mario
Not very exciting, but got some more work done today. The red arrow points to the tranny filter and the lines coming out in front will hook up to the independent tranny radiator. Originally the filter is attached to the tranny. The yellow arrows/dots are the mounting post for that HUGE van radiator. I had to notch the original support and use the crossmember below it as the new coolant radiator support. The van radiator is about 6-8 inches taller and 4-6 wider than the stock truck radiator.
Not very exciting, but got some more work done today. The red arrow points to the tranny filter and the lines coming out in front will hook up to the independent tranny radiator. Originally the filter is attached to the tranny. The yellow arrows/dots are the mounting post for that HUGE van radiator. I had to notch the original support and use the crossmember below it as the new coolant radiator support. The van radiator is about 6-8 inches taller and 4-6 wider than the stock truck radiator.
