V10 89F150 buildthread
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
I got my U-bolts last night too. Tip of the day. Don't torch the u-bolts to get your axle off. You might need them later. The 8.8 uses 3.25 u-bolts and the D60 uses 3.5 inch u-bolts.
Finishing the axle install is on my list for the weekend and pic's will come
Finishing the axle install is on my list for the weekend and pic's will come
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
I'm trying not to get too complicated. Not that I don't want to, it's just that this truck is not suppose to be " the" toy. I already have two other vehicles that I really can't wait to get crazy $$$ with. This truck is going to be the toy that hauls the other toys. I need my own truck cause the wife and I are always fighting over the F350. Her and her horse and me with vehicles. I just want this thing running and fast.
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Snapped some pictures of how little room there is on some places. There's only about 3/8 gap between the oil pan and the cross member in the back.
This is the back of the A/C compressor and the front of the cross member. Only 3/8 gap on it too. The only direction the motor could go is up and even that is in question. I haven't put the hood on yet, but I may have to modify it so it will clear the throttle body.
This is the back of the A/C compressor and the front of the cross member. Only 3/8 gap on it too. The only direction the motor could go is up and even that is in question. I haven't put the hood on yet, but I may have to modify it so it will clear the throttle body.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
I dont like those clearances at all. I would be modifing the cross member or motor mounts for at least 1/2"
And are you sure that is a D60 axle not a D70. I think they stopped using a D60 rear axle back in the 80s
And are you sure that is a D60 axle not a D70. I think they stopped using a D60 rear axle back in the 80s
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
I don't think anything damaging will happen if they hit. That V10 doesn't move around too much when running. If it does then I might make some solid motor mounts for it or raise the motor some. I'll have to see when I get to that point. I wanted to notch the member but the I-beams are right behind it. As for the axle, I don't know how to tell the difference between the two. I did some research on it and all I could find said Dana 60 or Sterling came for that year. I was wrong about the tranny so I could be wrong about the axle.
I just finished the axle install and here's the final say.
1) had to weld on spring perches right next to the E350, Pinion angle to be determined
2) the brake hose connects right to the hard line
3) I'll have to get an adjustable brake proportioning valve or maybe rig something up from the junkyard
4) there's only one parking brake cable, so you have to modify the where the two cables meet.
I cut the two ends off and welded one on top
I just finished the axle install and here's the final say.
1) had to weld on spring perches right next to the E350, Pinion angle to be determined
2) the brake hose connects right to the hard line
3) I'll have to get an adjustable brake proportioning valve or maybe rig something up from the junkyard
4) there's only one parking brake cable, so you have to modify the where the two cables meet.
I cut the two ends off and welded one on top
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Went out and snapped this picture. These pictures are a little misleading. The objects look closer to each other than they really are. This one for instance, looks like the valve cover is hitting the in the back, but there's about an inch between the two.This motor is huge and it's a close fit everywhere. I think it is what it is!! Don't take that wrong, because I truthfully do appreciate your comments or questions. I even appreciate some prodding on what I should do and not do. Sometimes I have to think about it for awhile and decide if it's something I want to do. Moto Mel suggested that I box the frame. I don't want to do that, but what he said is eating at me. After jacking this thing up and down and all around, there is a lot of frame flex. Now I'm trying to think of a way to reinforce the frame without boxing it. A happy medium between boxing and my laziness.
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
The place I found a lot of flex in my truck was right under the cab going to the rear of the truck. At this point thonly way to box it would be in sections. I would get all four corners in the air equally and the use a bottle jack on each side to take as much bend as possible out of the frame and then weld some 1/4" plate to the frame open side. Then for a bit of added strength build in a roll/light bar through the bed to the frame while it is still in the air This will tighten it up front to back and side to side if an X brace is built into the roll bar.
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Got the front suspension in and now it sits like a 4x4. The front sits about 1-2 inches higher and I'm hoping when everything is bolted on, it will bring it down 2-3. I'm not liking it right now, but maybe it will grow on me. The springs are from a 95 F250 with 460 and a stick.
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
Don't laugh, but I'm hoping to put a goose neck hitch in the bed. I got one of those bolt on ones from a F250 i took off a parts truck once. Goofy I know. I want to put it in so incase the F350 takes a crap while my wife is out with the horses, I can save the day. I also would like to haul my toys with a goose neck vs bumper pull. The more I play with this thing the more I want to do something about the frame flex.
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From: Bastrop, Texas (Austin,TX
I think they are Dodge Ram wheels. When I bought my F250, the only way it would fit on the trailer was with those wheels. They didn't fit on the front of the modified f150 because they wouldn't fit over the hub center.
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Ah, proves how much I know about dodge haha.
Ha, ha, ha. You can see that it's not "Built Ford Tough". I'll bet the owner nearly lost his "Heart Beat" when that happened.