Dillins Build Thread
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,181
Likes: 3
From: Across from the neighbors
Everything seems to look pretty beef. Only thing i see that needs work is your design on brackets. Such as the radius arm bracket. Put more of a radius on your corners when building things. Dont just put a 90* angle on everything. Makes it look like you used whatever you had and just drilled holes in it. A little bit of extra work makes things look a million times better.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 727
Likes: 0
I feel like that would be more of a personal perferance, than anything. I didnt have the plaz table like I did when I built everything else. Just the shear so everything was identical, using the hand plaz, stuff isn't quite as perfect. Also didn't say that all the guts are in the axles. detriots with 5.38s
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Looks good Dillnutz. The steering arm is that just the splined section on a stock one modified to work. Also as for heim ends guys do those have any slop in them compared to a tapered regular rod end? What's the advantage I always thought a tapered one would give better Steering response. Let me know if that's not the case.
Also as there is so much custom work here would it ever be street legal if pulled over or is this a trail only truck? If it is a trail truck I would opted for a full hydro steering setup as you already run coils and it would flex awesome eliminating the draglink completely.. I want to run coilovers real bad and it's next on the list.
Also as there is so much custom work here would it ever be street legal if pulled over or is this a trail only truck? If it is a trail truck I would opted for a full hydro steering setup as you already run coils and it would flex awesome eliminating the draglink completely.. I want to run coilovers real bad and it's next on the list.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 727
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yepp stock spline section of the pitman arm. just draft in 1/4 inch around it to make my steering box go lock to lock, not the stops on the hubs. idk ill prolly cruise it everyonce in awhile. yess i will be putting hydro assist on it. and i quite didnt understand what you ment by the hiem joint question.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Hydro assist will work good but I meant full hydro would be even better if it's an offroad truck as you lose the draglink allowing Flexy suspension travel.
With the heims I meant the bolts slide in a sleeve is it a precision fit or does it have some play as minor as it may be. Again this is why I always thought a tapered tie rod end is better.
What kind of steering box are you running? Do you have an idea where tap for hydro assist?
With the heims I meant the bolts slide in a sleeve is it a precision fit or does it have some play as minor as it may be. Again this is why I always thought a tapered tie rod end is better.
What kind of steering box are you running? Do you have an idea where tap for hydro assist?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
O also what size bolts are holding your steering box on? Are they 7/16 stock size? I would definitely drill it out to either tap to a minimum 1/2 "course thread or drill a **** hair bigger and run a through bolt with a nut on the backside with lok tite, all grade 8 of course..
I snapped mine off all 3 on my first good 4x4 test with new 7/16 grade 8 bolts. It was really one of the few breaks I've had..
I snapped mine off all 3 on my first good 4x4 test with new 7/16 grade 8 bolts. It was really one of the few breaks I've had..
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,949
Likes: 1
From: utica il
dillin if i read that right, that's no good.
are you saying instead of letting the steering hit the stops on the knuckles like it should, you made it so the box itself can go through it's full rage and bottom out itself? if that's what you did you effed up. put some stops back on there just a little out from full lock on the box otherwise you are going to stress the living foock out of that box, frame rail, and you will probably bust your sector shaft way easier than they already break.
maybe i read it wrong
are you saying instead of letting the steering hit the stops on the knuckles like it should, you made it so the box itself can go through it's full rage and bottom out itself? if that's what you did you effed up. put some stops back on there just a little out from full lock on the box otherwise you are going to stress the living foock out of that box, frame rail, and you will probably bust your sector shaft way easier than they already break.
maybe i read it wrong
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,669
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Looking back at your pics...
That pitman arm is teh ****. I also really like the design of the lower coil bucket/trac bar mount.
The bolt that hold the radius arms to the upper radius arm brackets seem a little small (appear to be 1/2", MAYBE 5/8s) Id really like to see that 1" or at minimum 3/4 and definitely grade 8 or better. What type of joint or heim do you have there? and what size is the shank?
When are you starting the engine build?
That pitman arm is teh ****. I also really like the design of the lower coil bucket/trac bar mount.
The bolt that hold the radius arms to the upper radius arm brackets seem a little small (appear to be 1/2", MAYBE 5/8s) Id really like to see that 1" or at minimum 3/4 and definitely grade 8 or better. What type of joint or heim do you have there? and what size is the shank?
When are you starting the engine build?