I wasn't implying that you were in any way lacking in effort, Bill. You are undoubtedly one of the best contributors to this site!

So I'm curious, what has been their response to your request / offer to fix the VIN DECODER?

Since most of us live more than 30 miles away from their office, where/what is their US mailing address, their appropriate e-mail address, does anyone know where we can submit our request for these fixes?

Is seems crazy that with all the sponsorship (including CHEVY TRUCK ads, grrr) that they get on this site that they can't / won't correct deficiencies that are brought to their attention in the info links provided here???

BarnieTrk

 

OK, I didn't see them at first, but now I see where you provided their contact locations.
I'll send them a request directly. ---- Thanks!
---- I hope others here also send in a request !!

BarnieTrk

 

The 'contact us' link at the bottom of the page takes us to message page to the 'Forum Administrator'..... will those messages get to to the IB Tim or IB Adrian?

BarnieTrk

 

Good Morning, I know this is a little off topic. I was wondering if you could help me. I just bought a '66. It has a coat of primer grey right now and we are wanting to paint it with the original color. I found that the color code was M and on the Didgey Specs it says this was Wimbeldon White. Is this correct? Does this mean the whole truck was this color since that is the only letter found? I have tried to search the internet a little to find an all white truck and have not done so. I do not know if once again the site I used was wrong. Thanks in advance for your time.
Matt and Steph

 

Welcome to FTE

If you have 1964/72 F Series truck and the COLOR code on the Warranty Plate is M = Wimbledon White, which is an off white.

One COLOR code: The entire truck is painted one color. Two COLOR codes: The truck is Tu-Toned.

Ford also offered a rare shade of white for 1965/66's: Pure White, its COLOR code is C.

FTE member camperspecial65's F250 has the COLOR codes of C and M, which means his truck is Tu-Tone white...the rarest of the rare.

Ford used letters and numbers for COLOR codes, not just letters. For example: 8M = Tu-Toned in Springtime Yellow and Wimbledon White.

 

I have seen pictures of thease in my Ford Truck books, they look like a great idea. I wonder why they never took off in popularity?

 

Thanks NumberDummy, I understand what you are saying about the numbers and letters. All we had was a M. Now we can rest knowing that is the color we are going to paint the truck. We are trying to keep the truck as original as possible.

MattandSteph
66 F-100

 

Hi,

I'm new to the forum and just purchased a 65 f100 short bed with a transplanted 460 and automatic transmission. Bought it as a project for myself and my 11 year old son to work on. We've been having a blast so far fixing all the little easy stuff and planning for more challenging projects in the future. My vin number is F10DL708986 and the tag below says WB (I assume this is wheel base) 115 Color JM Model F100 Body E81 Trans A Axle 07 Max CW Lbs 5000 HP 172 RPM 4000 DSO 21.

Any help anyone could provide would be great, we bought the truck from a salvage yard, running and rolling but the previous owner started some pretty rough body work and put a coat of primer over the entire truck. The engine runs great but the manual steering has a ton of play and makes the truck a bit of a bear to drive. Manual brakes are working okay and don't pull but also don't give a lot of confidence for quick stopping.

We plan on going through all the mechanics and electrical systems and getting everything we have in place working. Our big mechanical project will be adding power disk brakes and power steering, seen a lot of threads on that so I've got some good direction. We'll work on the body work last, do our best but send it to a professional for a "decent" (read low cost) body and paint job. The interior is rough but has what looks like two old Mustang bucket seats plunked down with a console, this works well with the automatic but the seats are not very well put in place so we've got some sorting out to do. I saw an email to someone who has the headliner templates but didn't get anything back so if anyone has those let me know how I can go about getting that information.

One thing we've been trying to find a solution to is the best way to remove the old clutch pedal, we removed the bracket and rod but the pedal seems to be part of the brake pedal assembly and not easily removed without just cutting it out or coming up with some sort of spacers. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

The truck has a little rust but nothing that looks to be too great a challenge, back bumper is bent in on one side but I think I can pull it out. We're hoping for a "weekend driver" and a possible first car for my son when he comes of age though the thought of him driving a 460 ci engine with no air bags may not pass muster his Mom and I.

Thanks for your help ahead of time!

 

Welcome to FTE

F10 = F100 2WD.

D = 352 2V.

L = Michigan Truck Assembly Plant.

708986 = 1965, assembled July 1965.

115" Wheelbase.

JM: J = Rangoon Red / M = Wimbledon White.

F100 2WD / 5,000 lbs. GVWR

E81: E = Red Crush Vinyl & Red Ladder Pattern Woven Plastic (Bench Seat) / 81 = 81B Custom Cab.

A = Ford Type 3.03 3 Speed Manual all Syncromesh Transmission.

07 = Ford 9" Rear Axle / 3.25-1 / non Limited Slip / 3,300 lb. Rear Axle Capacity.

5,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

172 net HP @ 4,000 RPM

21 = Atlanta GA Ford District Sales Office, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.

Underneath the dash is a bracket the clutch and brake pedals suspend from. On each side is a bronze bushing that was only furnished with the bracket (not removable).

The clutch pedal has a shaft (with a threaded end on it) which fits thru the bronze bushing from the left side, then thru a hole in the brake pedal, then thru the bronze bushing on the right side.

At the shaft's threaded end is the clutch pedal's bellcrank, then a washer and nut. The long clutch rod fits into this bellcrank, then thru the firewall and attaches to the equalizer (Z) bar.

There are four split nylon bushings (B7C2461A-available from Ford): Two on the clutch pedal's shaft (inner/outer), two fit into the hole in the brake pedal, inner/outer.

To remove the two pedals, unscrew the nut, remove it, take the washer and the bellcrank off, then pull the clutch pedal off from the left side. The brake pedal will then drop off on its own.

But...if the nylon bushings have disintegrated and/or corrosion has formed on the clutch pedal's shaft (basically welding it to the brake pedal), removing the clutch pedal can be a PITA.

Confused? The exploded view of all these parts is shown here: 1964/72 FORD TRUCK PARTS CATALOG / ILLUSTRATION Section 75, Page 25.

This parts catalog is available on a CD from hipoparts.com for $22.00.

 

Criminy Bill, you are the best!

 

Thanks Bill, that is over the top help!

I appreciate your time & effort.

 

Can anybody decode this for me? I would use to decoder, but after reading this, I don't want bad info.


Thanks a bunch

 

It was easier (and faster) for me to do it this way, instead of typing the info below the pic.

F11CK35?291 // 120 / B / F110 / 81A / F / 12A / 5600 / 135 / 3800 / 655376
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
F11 = F100 4WD

C = 292 2V.

K = Kansas City MO Assembly Plant.

35?291 = 1963, assembled November 1962 (November 1962 serial number range: 350,000 thru 359,999).

120" Wheelbase.

B = Caribbean Turquoise.

F110 = F100 4WD / 5600 lbs. GVWR

81A = Standard Cab.

F = Borg Warner T-98 4 Speed Manual Transmission.

12A:

12 = Ford 9" Rear Axle / 3.89-1 / non Limited Slip / 3300 lb. Rear Axle Capacity.

A = Spicer-Dana 44-6CF Front Driving Axle / 3.92-1 / non Limited Slip / 3,000 lb. Front Axle Capacity.

5600 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

135 net HP @ 3800 RPM

655376:

65 = Oklahoma City OK Ford District Sales Office, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.

5376: Domestic Special Order number. Your truck was ordered special by the original purchaser, not "bought off the lot."

 

dang.... thanks man!

 

SWEET WORKHORSE, GETBUCK911!



Bill,
What is the significance of the -6CF?

Does that refer to a closed knuckle type or

Thanks!
BarnieTrk