With the addition of the coolant filter, I added extra coolant and extra water for the extra capacity (maybe 1 qt of coolant extra).

Check your coolant filter in 5,000 - 6,000 miles. Whether it is loaded with stuff or not, just know that your cooling system is running as well or better than it was designed by Int'l and Ford.

 

It also specifies distilled water right on the instruction panel of the Gold Premium jug.

 

Yeah, I noticed when I put exactly 3.5 gallons and started the truck and then opened the ball valves on the coolant filter that the min level went down about another quart. So, I went about half and half with coolant and water, and then completed the min fill with a little more water today after allowing some air to escape.

 

Just a minor point.

The sensitivity of the mix to a minor change in water / coolant mix (e.g. +/- 5%) is not likely to be significant unless you are operating in extreme temperature ranges.

 

Just an FYI...

To save money.. instead of buying the 1gal jugs of RODI (reverse osmosis/deinonized) water off the shelf you can go to Wal-Mart and use the refill water station..just bring your own container. I do this frequently because of my saltwater aquarium. It something like $0.30 a gallon.

B.

 

Actually, this kind of water is not "distilled water".

The water that comes from the refill machines is just filtered and such... which is NOT distilled water (minerals removed).

 

So when using the VC-9 iron cleaner...do you have to take the vehicle for a 30 minute drive with this cleaner/water mix....?...or will 5 mins. in the driveway do the trick???

 

Distilled water only.

 

I would follow the instructions to the letter. As with all caustic cleaners, time is an important variable.

 

You need to drive it....

You need to get your system up to temp and pressure and move the cleaner through the entire system. Have your heater on and on high to get 100% coolant flow through the heater core. By driving it, the thermostat will open and give you 100% coolant flow as well. The key is to clean it and do it right (this stuff isn't cheap). No reason to short-cut it.

Good luck,

 

Make sure your 30 minute drive is on the open road. No stop and go in town driving.

 

First of all, let me say a huge thank you to guys like you who take the time to help others. You are truly a big part of what still makes this country great!
Secondly, I looked at my 05' F250 and the thermostat housing didn't look all that bad to remove, in fact I could do it with a bit of muscle power without moving or removing anything else. Now comes the hard part. I have the thermostat housing in my hands, and for the life of me I can't figure how to remove the thermostat short of a blowtorch or reciprocating saw.
Searching the web yields nothing except one post that seems to imply it cannot be removed from the housing.
So, now I sit here hoping one of you are online, or I go back to the 10 hour + way. (A way I REALLY DON'T WANT TO DO.)

Thanks again for all you have done and an early thanks for what I hope to be a duh moment in the next few minutes / hours....

 

If you can send a message or email to chezit or 69cj. I will do same.

 

Put housing in vice and push down and turn t-stat bar to remove. Reverse procedure for install. Use a new O ring. I used vaseline to hold it in place.

 

You have him covered Mark. The t-stat will turn either direction to come out.